Question about Cars & Trucks
You probably need new radiator cap ! These cooling systems are a closed type , under pressure so the temperature can run hotter , for better fuel efficiency an performance ! You can have it pressure tested at a parts store I'm sure .
Posted on Apr 19, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
1. Do you have a cooling fan system for your car, if you have , please check it, sometimes due to the wire overheated short problem and fan doesn’t work and cause the engine over heat.
2. If the head gasket leaking, you can check you oil steak see if there is white steam oil bubbling ,if the oil has steam and the radiator has oil mixed with coolant , that means the head gasket leaking.
Posted on Jun 24, 2008
SOURCE: Engine coolant indicator
It sounds like you're either low on coolant or have a stuck thermostat. If you're low on coolant you may have a leak. For coolant I recommend using 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water. You can buy pre-mixed 50/50 antifreeze or buy the 100% and dilute it with 50% water. The thermostat is a temperature controlled valve. It's held close by a spring until the desired engine temperature is reached. It then opens and allows coolant to flow in a loop from the radiator to the engine. If you're low on coolant or the thermostat gets stuck the engine will overheat which will cause the temperature gauge to rise. As the temperature increases so does the pressure. When the pressure and temperature get too great, very hot coolant, approaching steam temperatures, will find some way to escape and show up as smoke from your engine. Do not try to add coolant when the engine is extremely hot. Wait for it to cool. Be very careful removing the radiator cap when the engine is hot. Hot gas and liquid can come spurting out and burn you badly. You can add coolant to the overflow reservoir safely since you don't have to remove the radiator cap to do this. When your engine is hot try to find where the coolant is leaking from. It may be something easy to fix like replacing a radiator or heater hose.
Posted on May 20, 2009
take the cap off of the radiator (whil engine is cold) start and run the vehicle. keep runnig 30mins after the vehicle is hot keeping notice of the rad fluid level.
keeping the cap off will prevent the pressure build up that woiuld keep the air in the system, keep adding water or antifreeze as the level goes down. this may take an hour or so.
also with the cap off, you will be able to see if your water pump is operating correctly. you will visibly be able to see movement in the rad when the pum is engaged.
Posted on May 26, 2009
you have a blown head gasket.. doesn't have to have coolant in the oil for a blown head gasket... if hoses are rock hard when running then you have exhaust leaking into the coolant via a blown head gasket...
Posted on Jul 14, 2012
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I assume that there are no leaks anywhere and the radiator cap is in good condition. A bad radiator cap wil be indicated by the coolant being heard to boil just after the engine is stopped because of the retained heat in the engine when there is no coolant circulation. Ensure all the hoses and clamps where they connect to the various pipes in the engine bay and fix/replace any that are suspect. The heater hoses and those pesky little bypass hoses in the cooling system tend to go hard and split if they are over 10 years old, allowing coolant loss. Those spring type hose clamps tend to be less effective in clamping as the hoses become hard. Worm drive ones are the best to use.
If there are no leaks and water pump and thermostat are working correctly, but undetected loss of coolant once the engine heats up, then it could indicate a problem with the head gasket (Usually caused by allowing engine to become excessively overheated when cooling system has run dry and warping the head) allowing very hot high pressure combustion gases into the engine water jacket, which super heats the coolant in the engine block, which then boils off, and is released via the cap. If the head gasket leak is bad enough it will allow coolant into the combustion chambers which will produce white steamy smoke in the exhaust and allow coolant to get into the sump while the engine is stopped. This is indicated by a white oil and water emulsion on the dipstick.
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What you describe is quite normal. While the engine is running and the coolant is circulating the thermostat maintains the engine within its operating temperature range. When the engine is switched off there is still considerable heat within the engine and the coolant will continue to absorb this heat. With no coolant circulation, the coolant inside the engine will register a temperature rise to the extent your gauge measures. This temperature rise may persist for up to 15 minutes until the natural thermo-syphon of the cooling system starts to dissipate this heat build up and the engine starts to cool down. Because the cooling system is pressurised, the coolant is prevented from boiling off at this temperature above boiling point. Once the engine is restarted the coolant flow is re-established taking this excess heat from the engine and the system temperature returns to normal.
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