Question about 2002 Jeep Liberty
The car is 3.7 i want to know the problem because have been very dificult to many mechanics
Ok, must not be ASE rated mechanics???? sure.
please post the symptoms , I can not understand your post.
my guess is you mean the dash warning light with a kEY icon
is glowing, well that is the Immobilizer.
the operators guide covers all lights,. lost that?
using both keys as sold with car new??? lost the spare?
here is a DIY list, (my wild assumption)
no scan tool?, no joy,,,, DIY.
Posted on Apr 19, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Yes you have to check your pressure with a mechanical gauge first. If the pressure reading is good replace the oil pressure sending unit. They are known to go bad, and oil pumps going bad is rare.
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
Poor grounding can cause many of the conditions you have listed. When checking power with a volt meter, this goes unnoticed because the meter does not draw enough amperage to cause the bad connection to break contact. Your battery is grounded to the engine block and also has a small lead to the fender. Many components have individual ground leads as well (including most computers) I would check all ground leads and clean the contact surfaces with sandpaper or a wire brush. Adding an additional ground wire is a good idea as well. Don't forget that the dash board frame must also provide a good ground as well.
Many times this is all you need to do...sometimes though, control modules can be damaged because in having a partial ground, they build up heat, due to additional resistance in the circut.
This may or may not cure your problem, but it's worth checking out. Grounding is often overlooked, especially if it has not completely broken down.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
1-20amp-pwr outlet frt. 2-10amp-rear fog lights(export only)
3-15 amp-horn 4-10amp-hedlt low beam rt
5-10amp-hedlt low beam lft 6-20amp-bodycontrolmodule/pwr dr locks 7-spare 8-spare 9-10amp- rt pk lt /rt tail lt/trailer tow lt/cluster
10-spare 11-15 amp-flasher 12-15 amp-stop lts
15-10amp-pdc fuel pmp & auto shutdownrelays/skis
16-20amp-pwr outlet rear 17-15amp-rear wiper 18-20amp-radio choke relay 19-20amp-frt fog lts/trailer tow stop and turn lts
20-20amp-sunroof 21-spare 22-10amp-wiperswitch/frt and rear washer 23-10amp-lft park lt/lft tail lt 24-10amp-pdc blower motor relay 25-10amp-heatseatswitch/hvac controlhead/trailor tow battery charge 26-10amp-hedlt highbeam rt 27-10amp-hedlt highbeam lft
28-spare 29-15amp-heated seat module 30-10amp-heated mirrors/rearwindowdefrosterindicator 31-20amp-cigarlighter
33-10amp-skis/diagnostic connector 34-15amp-cluster/courtesy lts/radio/bodycontrolmodule/maplights/cmtc/underhood lt/vanity lts
35-spare 36-10amp-ignition run/start-orc/lft and rt siacm
37-10amp-ignition run only-orc 38-10amp-abs module/brake shift interlock solenoid 39-10amp-rear window defroster relay/flasher/backup lts
Posted on Jul 10, 2009
Your security system could have a problem, replace battery in keyless remote. If not helping you may have to take it somewhere and have security system checked
Posted on Sep 17, 2009
Most commonly it is the key is worn out. If you have a spare key or your current one is not too badly worn, have a copy of it made and try it in the switch. You will have to have the copy key "coded" so it will disable the anti-theft system in order for the engine to start. If the new key doesn't fix your problem, you will have to replace the tumbler assembly.
Posted on Nov 20, 2009
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