Question about 1994 Mitsubishi Diamante
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: auto transmission
The transmission in your car is the F4A33-1 model.I rebuild these transmissions and many others very similar to it on a regular basis.There are several areas that can cause the symptoms you are experiencing,and the first thing that should be done is a scan tool acquired for pulling trouble codes and looking at transmission data real time.If any trouble codes are present,they should be diagnosed and repaired.A faulty PRNDL switch,or faulty speed sensors (pulse generators) can cause your symptoms,and they are mounted externally on the transmission.If they are faulty,trouble codes will be present,and operation can be monitored with the scan tool by looking at the data stream.All of these external items have to be checked for proper operation.If all external items and controls are ok,there are 2 other problematic areas with this transmission as well as all Mitsubishi's,and that is the solenoids mounted on the valve body.The valve body is mounted inside the lower trans pan,and the solenoids on top of the valve body.They go bad on a regular basis,and i replace them ALL with brand new Rostra solenoids.The other problematic area is the 4th gear clutches,and the clutches and drum can be removed from the trans,and the trans doesnt have to be pulled for that.The 4th clutches and drum is located behind the side cover.They are very thin,and relatively small,and burn up easily.With all those bases covered,the only thing left to check good or bad is the transmission internally,or a computer problem.Mitsubishi's computers from those year models were very delicate and went bad often.I have a remanufactured computer in one of my Mitsu cars.Good luck.
Posted on Aug 31, 2008
this lower tube is coolant inlet tube to water pump..dealer part as far as i know..they will know what one it is if you describe it..fairly common part..not too bad to replace
Posted on May 17, 2009
SOURCE: My radiator hose exploded.
DOn't repair it, it is a wate of money. It got exploded since it got clogged the the pressure built up attcking w weak point due to aging causing the problem. You can change it your self to save labor cost of $100. The radiator cost $199 at autohaus online. At store will cost more. You should be thankful for this incident. Otherwise if it didn't go this path, it will attack you head gasket then it will cost more to fix. Have you heard about a blown head gasket? This is what i'm talking about. Cheers.
Posted on Sep 13, 2009
Real easy. The hose is held on by a jubilee clip. Best bet is to remove the hose (it will mean the radiator and block become drained of coolant) and clean the outside of the metal tube on which the hose is mounted. Sometimes corrosion here leads to leaks so scrape clean and polish with wire brush. Ensure that the hose is in good shape and that its interior has no bits of corrosion or dirt clinging to it. Slip the hose on to the tube and tighten the clip up. Refill the cooling system with a mixture of 1 part glycol antifreeze to 2 parts water. If in the Northern states make that mixture a ratio of 1 part glycol to 1 part water. Ensure the filer cap is on type and run engine up to operating temperature. Squeeze the top hose to help expel any air bubbles from the system. When the engine has cooled again check coolant levels and top up to make up for the expulsion of trapped air.
Posted on May 17, 2010
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