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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2000 Chevy Blazer
i am working on a s 10 of the same yaer and problem i will post my results after tomorrow when i have finished the job i bout this truck cause of the forum i own one that is a great one and this one is for experimental purpose i will let u know so far you cant lift the motor with a jack or a hoist so we r going another route in the mornin
Posted on Dec 27, 2008
1) Is the service engine soon light ever on when engine is running?
2) Per your description I would look at the ECT sending unit. It sends coolant temperature information the the Engine Control Module for proper fuel delivery for cold engine start. It may have lost its calibration.
Let me know.
Posted on Feb 24, 2009
Raise vehicle up on jack stands so that the stands are under the lower controll arms and the suspension is "loaded" Remove the front tire(s) (if you break the torque on the nuts while the wheel is still on the ground it helps, but do not loosen them completely as you will be looking for new rims and wheel studs too). Place a drift or some other suitable object in one of the brake rotor vanes so that it will hit the brake caliper and stop the rotor from moving and remove the CV shaft nut (it's a big ****** make sure you have the right socket on hand before getting to this point). Next remove the brake caliper and rotor then undo the wheel bearing retaining bolts and remove the wheel bearing. This should give you enough room to move the axle shaft back and up so you can work on the ball joint. If you've had ball joints replaced before just unbolt the ones that are installed and using a pickle fork, or a block of wood and a hammer, drive the ball joint stud from the knuckle. (make sure to support the upper control arm so it doesn't drop down on you when you do this) If you are working on original ball joints then I reccomend placing a block of wood or something else that will protect the cv boots from drill bits ect and drill out the rivets holding the ball joint in place. then remove in the same manner indicated in the previous paragraph. installation is pretty much the reverse of removal and don't forget to torque your cv shaft nut I have a 1999 and the manual specs 103FTlbs... This is a critical torque as it helps preload your wheel bearing. Too high and you'll burn them up, too low and they'll be loose and wear out.
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
Testimonial: "Thank you for your directions this will help very much."
It's most likely the "four wheel drive actuator" This is located on the front differential housing. It's cylindrical shaped and has a large hex (about
1-1/4") and two wires coming out of it. Usually they short out and blow the fuse but, I've also seen where they just quit working and sometimes they just get slow to work. The "actuator" has a heating element in it and it warms up, some sort gas, causing it to expand thus engaging the front wheels. In cold weather it may take a minute or so for it to engage, so put in four wheel drive and wait for a bit and see what happens.
Posted on Jan 05, 2010
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