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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the crank sensor is located on back right side of engine by were the trans. bolts up.is the no start when could or hot?
Posted on Jan 25, 2009
Hi, i have put together a step by step guide that will help you with this replacement job. Make sure the vehicle is in a cool state before starting this job.
* Drain some coolant into a clean container until the coolant level is below the thermostat housing.
* Remove the upper radiator hose connection from the thermostat housing.
* Loosen the housing bolts and remove the housing.
* Remove the gasket and scrape it carefully from the surface of the housing and the mounting surface on the engine. If the gasket remains on either of the surfaces, there will probably bea coolant leak after reassembly. Some engines use a rubber O-ring to seal a thermostat housing.
* Compare the size of the thermostat to the old one. They are of different sizes, types, and temperature ratings.
* The temperature rating is stamped on the sensing bulb on the bottom of the thermostat. The temperature bulb faces the block.
* When replacing a thermostat, be sure that the thermostat fits into the groove in the block or outlet housing. If the thermostat is installed upside down, the engine will overheat.
* Install the gasket.
* Reinstall the thermostat housing. Refill the system and run the engine or pressure test to check for leaks.
* When the engine has reached operating temperature make sure the thermostat opens.
* You should be able to see coolant circulating within the radiator.
* Another way of checking thermostat operation is to feel the top of the radiator hose or use a thermometer or multimeter with a temperature probe to confirm that the coolant is warming up.
* If the engine is overheating, but the top hose is still cool to the touch, the thermostat is stuck closed and must be replaced.
When a paper gasket is used and the recess is in the thermostat housing, it is a good practice to position the thermostat into the recess and glue the gasket to hold it in place. If it falls out of its groove during installation, the outlet housing can be cracked or a coolant leak will result. Before tightening the water outlet housing, try to rock it back and forth to be sure it is flush. Housings are often cracked during this step.
Posted on Apr 30, 2009
1.At first take out the foglight's fuse before you battery is dead. (Fog lights stays "ON" even you leave the car).
2.You must replace the Multifunction control switch =(
Here is the photo of problem:
Fog lights are connected to pin 13,14.
Fog light switch is "B". Because the current is many Amps, contact surfaces are heating up.
After that the contact opening "C" is melting (made of plastic) so the fog light stays "ON".
Posted on May 29, 2009
SOURCE: "Check Engine light"
The issue is that the system randomly checks the loop of the fuel system to confirm that it has no leaks. A missing cap is the easy one to correct. It might also be a slpit in the rubber hose that connects the fuel fill tube (on the chassis) to the one on the tank, or any other hose in the the entire fuel delivery/ fume recovery sysrtem. The solenoid that allows the engine's vacuum to be used to conduct this test can also be sticking so that after the test cycle, it doesn't reclose. Good luck
Posted on Dec 10, 2009
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