Question about 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i actually removed my 2 front seats very easily as a novice. There really is only i think 4 bolts that need to come out 2 in front and 2 in back. If i can remember correctly i believe it was a larger metric size. Although i dont have power seats, if you do just look for the clip connector and disengage
Posted on Jul 07, 2008
SOURCE: my 1998 jeep grand cherokee
It is the relay switch but there's a workaround and you don't have to spend 800 bucks plus. You can take down part of the headliner and replace the relay switch or, if you want to avoid spending the money, you can simply disable the sunroof - after all - who uses it? You can a.) pull the headliner driver side to get to the rear relay/motor and reverse polarity (the connector) as long as you have the front top console plug jumpered to open/close the sunroof or b.) get to the rear relay without totally dissaembling your car and replace the relay in about 2 hours and after spending about $180 for the part.
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
You need to remove all the skrews from the door. Normaly there is one in the handle of the door, one behind the in door lach handel and one under the bump out for the arm rest on the door. Than you need to take a flat head skrew driver slowly priying the panel off. There are plastic clips on the backside of the panel it is ok if you brake a few.
Posted on May 01, 2009
Definitely, you'll have to take a look to see if any obstruction is visible. To check the fuses first you'll need to find them. The fuse block cover should illustrate what each fuse is for. You can visibly check the fuses, with a flashlight. Just take a look at the sunroof fuse and check that its not burned. That the metal inside goes from one side to the other and its not burned or broken. You can use a test light or a multimeter, a test-light will do. I usually check them visibly, its obvious when you have a blown fuse just by looking at it. Its better just to pull out the suspected fuse to check it.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
First, if the noise is from the upper part of the engine and is more of a tapping than a knock, likely you have a problem in the valvetrain, most often a bad lifter or worn rocker arm. If the noise is low, deep inside, the noise is from a bearing. This is generally accompanied by lower than normal oil pressure. Regardless of the underlying cause, correcting the cause will not stop the knock. To do that correctly, the engine needs to be removed and all crankshaft bearings and the crankshaft itself need to be replaced (crank can sometimes be "undercut" and thicker bearing shells can be used depending upon the amount of wear.) If caught very early, sometimes only one bearing can be replaced in-car, but in 99% of all cases I have ever seen, most will fail again, sometimes more severely if done this way.
Posted on Dec 10, 2009
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