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Cars & Trucks Master
Re: I asked a question about a week ago , what would make...
Good evening Vernon. You placed your problem with your car,but you did not mention the make and type of your car. Your Engine runs perfect when is cold because it is running in a rich mixture and has high revs, but when it comes to standard temperature is working ruff,because the engine turns to the correct mixture for running,but as the engine suffers from air works like suffocating ( needs Oxygen. Now the problem is probably either a cracked vacuum hose somewhere by the inlet manifold, by the throttle body, the purge canister is not working properly, the throttle body does not working as it is programmed to do so. As I do not know the make of the car I will not be much helpful, but what I state is some of the basic procedures I personally follow in My Garage. Also if you do have any type of scanner will be handy. The Question I have is: Does your car have a catalytic converter ? If yes check also the if the catalytic converter is working. To see whether it does,the easy way to check is to check through the Gas Analyzer your emissions , or if you do not have any check whilst accelerating if the exhaust end has loud outcome emissions ( air ) and you can notice it if you put your hand in a short distance from the exhaust whilst somebody accelerates and if is pushing strongly the hand means that the cat is open,unless you do have a smell as a rotten egg, surely the cat is blogged.Hope I am helpful. Good luck.
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power steering puts a lot of load on the engine and if the idle compensator does not adjust it dies. a struggling pump can cause more load. when pump gets warm it works easier. Notice how when you check fluid it says hot cold.
Hope this helps Mike
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I guess the overall answer is yes it could be the ECM. Code 16 is high or low system battery voltage. Code 21 and 22 are both for the throttle position sensor. And code 43 is for the electronic spark control which controls engine spark timing. The ECM grounds various relays to make things happen such as turning on the cooling fan. So a faulty ECM could cause all of the symptoms. But so could a wiring problem in one of the harnesses. Especially a ground problem somewhere. If the alternator suddenly starts overcharging the system the ECM can shut down the car to protect the circuits. Unusual, but possible. This info may not help much, but somebody is going to have to test the circuits when the engine dies or when the symptoms happen.
Tap on the MAS and if it keeps running ruff... or will run without it then replace it as its running in the computer default mode, most likely.
Next I'd suspect/check the fuel injectors. Hows your MPG? oh yeah, bad. Run a can of Seafoam and follow the directions on how to flood and clean your own insides of your engine. This often saves that pricey injector cleaning and your age car must have one bad by now.
Signs: Runnning ruff because its leaking gas into the cylinder.
Pull all the plugs and check their color first. The most leaky one will look different -- you can google up a chart and all haynes manuals used to have them, in color, in them.
O2 sensor only comes into play after the motor has run about 3 mins. First its on computer default mode. Many sensors are not even "looked at" by the computer until its running at normal operating temp.
When you start your car, you step on the gas and turn the key, you have set the high idle feature on the carb as part of the warmup sequence. When you step on the gas again, you kick high idle off ...if premature, the engine is cold and it runs ruff, and wikll likely stall under some circumstances until you have reached operating temp. The reason for the ruffness ...is gasoline becomes 'gas' better when the engine is at operating temp than when the engine is cold.
Your battery is getting tired. When you step on the gas and the lights get brighter, it is because you are running the alternator at a higher speed and you are making more electricity which the lights are more than happy to gobble up.
Keep in mind your car is notonly a Caprice Classic ... it is a classic, 26 year old vehicle. It needs a little more TLC than a newer model.
My 2000 Grand Cherokee had the same problem, without all the sputtering, it would just die approaching a stop. We could only keep it running by slightly pushing down on the gas petal when coming to a stop. I replaced the Throttle Position Sensor, but that didn't change anything. A new mechanic I found replaced the Idle Air Control Valve, and we've had no problems in a week.