Are you sure the code is P 1005? Either the search and I missed it or Somehow I am missing some data . I see everything from P 0016 Crank/Cam timing Misalign to P 2503 Charging System Voltage low but not a P 1005
Sounds like a corroded connection on the engine harness or it's melted/rodent chewed around the manifold.
SOURCE: 2007 chrysler town and country 3.8L engine check
More than likely the EGR valve. Common problem
SOURCE: I have a 2007 Chrysler
Hello Frybird.
The codes you have are engine misfires.
Code 300 is random misfire (could be any cylinder).
Code 302 is cylinder #2 misfire and 303 cylinder 3 misfire.
Most common causes are ignition issues.
Spark plugs, ignition wires/boots and ignition coils.
Next would be fuel issues such as fuel injectors.
Next would be emission components such as EGR valves.
Then in a worst case condition would be engine wear parts (valves, camshafts etc.)
The place to begin is ignition as this is a common failure on most cars.
If you need further assistance regarding your question please ask me here in a comment.
Thank you for using FixYa.
KL
SOURCE: 2007 Chrysler Pacifica having intermittent
2007 Chrysler Pacifica having intermittent fuel gauge problems. Goes from normal to dead/ low fuel. Has full tank. Also, check engine light is on
SOURCE: my check engine ligtht continues
I had the same problem and was able to fix it in less than 15 minutes and for $4.99. Locate the SRV ( this is the actuator on the intake closest to the center line of the engine) and disconnect the electrical connector by sliding the red clip on the side toward the wires. You will then push down on the release tab and will be able to pull the connector off. Remove the four 10 mm hex bolts and pull the actuator straight off. There is resistance from an o-ring but it does come out. You will notice oil and crud running out just wipe this up. Spray intake manifold cleaner on the flapper valve and wiggle it to loosen the crud. This may take a couple of minutes but you will feel it free up and move effortlessly and the you are finished with the flapper. wipe the actuator off and turn the rectangular stem sticking out by hand back and forth to free it up as well. Wipe the o-ring off and put it on the actuator body and insert the actuator drive tab in the flapper valve and adjust the position that you pulled it off from. install the bolts lightly torquing them back into the (plastic!!!) housing. re-connect the plug and reset the red tab. All done. The trouble light should clear. If not you may need to replace the actuator (around $150) using the same process.
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