Question about Subaru Cars & Trucks
Its a good possibility, that its a clogged up Idle air control valve. (IAC) remove and clean it out! May be sticking from carbon, and causing car to idle high. This controls idling. God-Bless! Clean with alcohol and Q-tips; it should take you 20 or so to do the job. then reinstall, start car and idle will be normal in a few trips.
Posted on Apr 14, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i had this problem with mine if your cable spins wen the car is moving its not the gear box end or the cable its the speed sensor in the speedo its self its very easy to fix you have to strip the speedo out of the case the sensor is only small and on the under side of the speedo the sensor is about 50 mm long and 10 mm wide change that and it should be ok
oh remember to reset your ecu
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
if the engine temp seems normal on the dash gauge then it may be a clogged heater core.have the sysyem flushed-it worked for me recentlythe other options may be a heater door not closing..some are vacuum activated a flush is a good place to start..good luck
Posted on Jan 20, 2009
Mine use to work on high only. It was the switch cylinders, something like that. It was an easy fix. Now my blower motor works intermittently. If I kick it, it turns back on. It is located on the passenger side close to the door side directly above your feet (below the jockey box). Kick straight up. If you need to replace it it is also an easy do-it-yourself repair. Make sure before you go out and replace your blower motor that you check your switch. A lot of repair shops will replace the motor w/o checking the switch, you end up paying for 2 repairs. You can make sure it's not the switch by jumping (bypassing) the switch.You apply jumper wires (not cables) directly to the motor, if the motor turns on you know it's the switch.
Posted on Feb 03, 2009
I bought a 1995wrx turbo japanese import 260bhp standard,which can only run on v-power 99octane fuel,from scooby clinic in chesterfield (scooby race tune expert mechanics).I was the first person in england to test drive on road (it had not long arrived in the uk & had been put on rolling road a few times),whilst test driving,the turbo boosted normal & then started juddering slightly etc etc,i asked scooby lad "what was that" he wasnt sure(office boy!) & assured me that whatever it was theyre top mechanics would sort it out & do a full service,change the belts etc etc, ...so i bought it,luckily with a 30 day warranty included starting from collecting it.I picked it up about a week later,i got as far as 20mile away(nearly home) & it started juddering again,nothing too serious,so i thought we'll see how we go.next day same again,after 3days it were juddering more visciously,getting worse to the point where i nearly hit the windscreen,i thought its got to be a fuel blockage?.it backfired twice & not long after that packed up & would not start again,i foned scooby clinic & towed car back up to chesterfield.they kept saying "i must of put wrong fuel in",they ended up taking engine out cos head gaskets had blown,engine had died,6-7 wks later they told me to come & collect car with no charge,i was told to run it in for 500 miles steadily,& then take it back,they then changed oil,sparplugs & boosted turbo back up(re-connected it),the boss apologised to me & said if he knew it were like that he would never have sold it at all to anyone,he explained that the engine was carboned up(blocked) they did a nearly full engne re-build free of charge.the boss said if he knew it were blocked up they would of gave it a thrashing to clear the engine.
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
There is a locking solenoid under the plastic shroud around you shifter. When you put on your brake the solenoid is supposed to pull back to release the shifter.
The buzzing you are hearing is that solenoid trying to pull back. Going to have to replace it.
Posted on Mar 04, 2010
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