Question about 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty Super Cab

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Tips to remove frozen wheel bearing - 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty Super Cab

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Forget the torch idea as it will damage the axle
bearings appear hard but in fact cut readily with an angle grinder
cut at an angle and almost all the way in
get a cold chisel and hit the cut hard and the bearing will crack and be easy to pull off

Posted on Apr 14, 2015

Testimonial: "thanks, gear puller did the trick, my hot wife helped."

  • Bill Boyd Apr 14, 2015

    if the bearing is in the hub and needs to be shrunk to get it out , then use a stick welder and weld a line around the inside of the bearing.

  • Bill Boyd Apr 14, 2015

    ool it off and the bearing will be shrunk enough to able to tap/pull/fall out

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  • Master
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Never heat a suspension or drive-line part as the metal will loose it's temperament and become weak and brittle.

I cut a slit in them with my grinder, and then hit it with an air hammer. By doing this not only can you do it without damaging the axle / spindle almost every time.

Of course you could always buy the right tool for the job, available from ford and OTC.

Posted on Apr 14, 2015

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  • Contributor
  • 14 Answers

I have had a lot of luck saving these bearings, scars to my axle or spindle by attaching a gear puller or slide hammer to the bearing. I even once, for lack of better equipment used a come along between a well set post and the bearing with the cable looped around the back side of the bearing. The last one I don't recommend but don't be afraid to get creative. Just use caution.

Posted on Apr 14, 2015

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  • Contributor
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This is what I use to do when the outer race of the wheel bearing is stuck onto the spindle. Take wheel off and take off all the wheel bearing parts - leaving outer race stuck onto spindle. I take a cut off torch and heat and cut off the metal blowing sideways. Not directly into the spindle. Do not use a lot of fire or it will harden the spindle too much.

Posted on Apr 14, 2015

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  • Expert
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I suggest a small hand held torch to heat the bearing. It works better than a large torch because it's a lot easier to maneuver and control where the heat is being applied

Posted on Apr 14, 2015

  • Ryan Bartlett Apr 14, 2015

    Bill Boyd, the grinder idea is a quicker method of removing the old bearing but for an inexperienced person it could be for one dangerous to the user and if the person doesn't really know what to do (the reason for posting the question on the site) it is very possible and easy to cut too far into the bearing and cut the spindle unknowingly which would therefore cause more damage and the cost to go up as well. Just wanted to point that out, not trying to put your comment to sleep or anything.

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The hub and wheel bearing unit is serviced as a complete assembly. Replacement of the front drive hub and bearing assembly can be done without having to remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. However, if the hub/bearing assembly is frozen to the steering knuckle, removal of the steering knuckle is required.
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the cotter pin from the end of the stub axle. Remove the nut lock and spring washer. With the brakes applied, loosen, but do NOT remove the axle nut and washer with the vehicle still on the ground or damage to the wheel bearing will result.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the wheel.
  4. Remove the front brake caliper assembly from the steering knuckle assembly and support from the strut assembly using a strong piece of wire.
    1. Remove the front brake rotor from the hub/bearing assembly.
    2. Remove the retaining nut and washer from the halfshaft stub axle.
    3. Remove the ABS wheel speed sensor from the steering knuckle.
    4. Remove the 4 hub and bearing assembly mounting bolts from behind the steering knuckle.
    5. Remove the hub and bearing assembly from the steering knuckle.
  5. To install:
    1. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the steering knuckle and the hub and bearing assembly of any foreign material or nicks so the surfaces are clean and smooth.
    2. Install the new hub and bearing assembly and tighten the mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern to 45 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Be sure the hub and bearing assembly is seated squarely against the front steering knuckle.
    3. Install the disc brake rotor.
    4. Install the brake caliper assembly onto the steering knuckle.
    5. Install the axle washer and nut. Tighten but do not torque.
    6. Install the ABS wheel speed sensor.
    7. Install the wheel and lug nuts. Torque the lug nuts, in sequence, to 95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm).
    8. Lower the vehicle. Do NOT roll the vehicle until the axle nut has been properly torqued or damage to the front wheel bearings will result.
    9. With the vehicle's brakes applied, torque the axle nut to 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm). Install the spring washer, nut lock and a new cotter pin. Wrap the cotter pin prongs tightly around the axle nut lock.
    10. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Check the wheel alignment.

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The hub/bearing assembly is attached to the steering knuckle with four bolts


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Removing a hub/bearing assembly



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If the hub/bearing is "frozen" to the steering knuckle, separate the ball joint and lightly tap on the hub/bearing from behind



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The hub/bearing assembly should free itself from the steering knuckle

About $60 a hub.

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