How to get the proportioning valve to slide to the center. 1997 mazda 626 brakes

Do not try to fix the proportioning valve. There are no parts available for it. Usually go bad due to moisture contamination on the brake fluid which causes corrosion and sticking. Replace it it is a major safety item.

Hammer time! all the brake rotors I've ever seen just slide on over the wheel lug studs. Your rotor could be seized on there due to rust or excessive heat. tap your way around the back side of the brake rotor and if you can put some heat to the wheel stud areas and it should pop loose. Hope this helps

The 1st thing you need to do is check the brake lights, if they are not wiorking the park lock solenoid doesn't get power and the park lock remains engaged.

it sounds like you are having trouble with one of the centering valves
trace the line back to the valve if it is off to one side most times you
eather have a broken brake line or air in the line but the centering
valve tells all

The proportioning valve simply ensures that the front brakes are applied before the rear brakes are, to prevent sideways skids from loss of rear traction. The valve also serves as a warning light when one end, either front or rear, of the system has deficient line pressure. Inside the valve is a cylinder, and a piston that belongs in the center of the valve cylinder (when fluid pressure on each side is equal). When one side of the valve (front or rear brake system) loses pressure (like from a leaking brake line), the piston gets pushed to the low pressure end and makes contact with a switch terminal that turns the light on.The trick to turning the light off is to figure out which end, front or rear brakes, the piston is on, and then bleed the other end to center the piston and turn the light off. Too much pressure on the brake pedal will cause the piston to go past center to the opposite end, and a close watch on the brake warning light will reveal that as the lamp will flicker once while the piston passes center.
Gently depress the brake pedal (requires an assistant) with a bleeder open and close the bleeder as soon as the assistant (brake pumper) sees the light go out. If he sees the light flicker once bleed the other end of the vehicle to go back towards center.

THAT HAS A HYROLIC TYPE TENSSIONER YOU HAVE TO PUT IN VISE AND COMPRESS SLOWLY AND INSTALL HOLDING PIN (ALLEL WRENCH WORKS) ON A 2.5 V6 . ON A 2.0 ITS A LIL DIFF THERE IS A CENTER BOLT AND A SPRING BUT YOU HAVE TO USE ALEN WRENCH TO PUT TENNSION OB BELT

it sounds like your brakes need to be replaced. the squeaking is actually a brake pad indicator rubbing on the rotors letting you know that the pads are low an need to be changed soon. if you let this go on for too long you may damage the rotors and spend a lot more money than just a simple brake job.

if you are just changing the pads there are 2 bolts that split the caliper in halve and allow you to change the pads thres two bolts are located top and bottom on the backside of the caliper and require an allen wrench for removal to remove the whole caliper there are 2 bolts on the back side closer to the center top and bottom that require a 17mm socket remove these 2 bolts clamp off the flex brake hose with a clamp and remove from caliper and work up and down until caliper comes away from disc

probley not egr valve it probley egr control solenoid or wiring

open your trunk and pull back the carpet behind the taillight assembly you should see several connections on the back, you want the one in the center, or red part of the tailight, twist the connection counterclockwise, i believe, look to make sure. it should be pretty simple and easy to figure out, its a twin fillament bulb that pulls straight out