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A top championship racing driver said, "the car is very easy to drive. Just be careful of the abs it can catch you out half way through the race otherwise the was very good.

Does this mean that the brakes will fail half way thru the race? Does the 350Z have a factory ABS fault?

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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Just means b carefull

Posted on Apr 13, 2015

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How do I replace wheel bearings and seal for 1970 dodge superbee


Watch the You Tube Video

Don't think you need to actually watch that vehicle

You only have to get a general idea how to do wheel
bearings on a two wheel rear drive car

To install new race yourself

Keep the old races & sand or grind down the outside a little
& use them as your install driver, for the new races & then keep
them in your tool box,may need them again 30 years from now

After you have the new races in have the rotors turned

Sep 24, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Engine wont catch


Catch?
cranks fast
starts every time.
idles fine hot or cold , or both? hot idle not too fast.
i race engine , in park and neutral, I can hit 3500 rpm easy, can you.
i release brakes, (brakes are not packed in ICE , are they?)
I select 1gear or reverse (A/T or m/t)
the car moves or dont move, which is it, my guess catch = no move at all.
I try to drive, i look at RPM and MPH
RPM moves up and MPH track.
track means they both move in a linear progression.
RPM rises and for all RPM increases MPH also increases.
does it?
if all that works then we have an engine power issue.
weak on hills?

Jan 03, 2014 | 1998 Jeep Cherokee 4WD

1 Answer

Nissan Cefiro A33 vs Toyota corolla 121 G vvti


OK, first you need to know the specs of both cars to have a guided guess. It is simple, find he the Horsepower (hp) for both, and the wiegh in pounds (Lb). Then for each car Divide the weight by the horsepower Lb/Hp and this will giive you how many pounds every horsepower has to carry. Compare results for both cars and the one with less pounds for each horsepower will have better chances of wining. Remember this is just a guided guess, since it works for cars in ideal perfect condition. There are other things which can change the results. One can be the hability of the driver to drive and to react in the start line.
You can help yourself by having your car loose weigh. For example, go to the race with a minimal amount of gas. Gas is heavy. Race alone in your car. Good Luck!! Be careful.

Nov 13, 2013 | Nissan Cefiro Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to replace right front wheel bearings


What you'll need:

  1. Large adjustable wrench and Channelocks.
  2. Bearing race driver tool or various size punches.
  3. Socket and ratchet set or assorted wrenches.
  4. BFH.
  5. Lots of rags.
  6. New wheel bearings.
  7. Wheel bearing grease.
  8. New cotter pin.
  9. New grease seals.
  10. Wheel blocks.
  11. Safety glasses.
  12. A jack and a pair of jack stands.
  13. Rubber gloves (Optional)

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  1. First remove the bearing cap. This is a press fit and to remove it grab it with your Channelocks and work it back and forth until it pops off. Be careful not to crush it as you remove it.
  2. Once the cap is off you will see a cotter pin, Remove the cotter pin and remove the retainer ring. If your vehicle has a castellated nut, you will not have a retaining ring.
  3. Using your Channelocks or adjustable wrench, remove the nut from the spindle.
  4. Now remove the outer wheel bearing and washer and lay it aside.
  5. Slide the rotor or drum off the spindle. This may be difficult, but it will come off. Don't worry about hurting the grease seal; we're going to replace it anyway.
  6. Now that the rotor or drum is off, use a suitable tool to remove the grease seal and take out the inner wheel bearing.
  7. Using some of the rags wipe all the old grease from inside the hub.
  8. Now we need to remove the bearing races from the hub. Take a punch with a flat narrow tip and place it on the back of the race. Most hubs have gaps in them to expose the back of the race to make removal easier. Tap the race out, alternating from side to side so it comes out evenly and doesn't get cocked in the hub. Once it's out, flip the rotor or drum over and do the same for the other race.
When both races are out, clean the inside of the hub with some rags. Also make sure the spindle is clean as well. You can even use some carburetor cleaner to do a really good job of cleaning. From this point on cleanliness is important. You do not want any dirt, sand or metal chips inside the hub.
  1. Take one of the new races and coat the outside with some wheel bearing grease. This will help it slide into the hub. If you have a race driver, select the proper size and tap the new race into the hub. Make sure you drive it in evenly and do not **** it. If you don't have a race driver, use your hammer to tap the outside of the race to get it started making sure you tap evenly around the race. When it is flush with the hub, use your flat narrow punch and drive it in the rest of the way. Make sure it is fully seated. The sound of the tapping will change when it's seated and you can look from the other side to visually confirm this.
  2. Do the same for the other race.
  3. If you don't have a bearing packer, you will need to pack them by hand. Put a glob of wheel bearing grease in the palm of your hand. Slip the wheel bearing on your index finger like a ring with the wide end facing out. Then tap the bearing into the glob of grease until you see it coming out the other side. When you see it come out turn the whole bearing, don't just rotate it on your finger, and repeat the procedure until the whole bearing has grease coming out the other side. Repeat this for the other bearings.
Now that everything is nice and clean, let's put the new races and bearings in.
  1. Take one of the new races and coat the outside with some wheel bearing grease. This will help it slide into the hub. If you have a race driver, select the proper size and tap the new race into the hub. Make sure you drive it in evenly and do not **** it. If you don't have a race driver, use your hammer to tap the outside of the race to get it started making sure you tap evenly around the race. When it is flush with the hub, use your flat narrow punch and drive it in the rest of the way. Make sure it is fully seated. The sound of the tapping will change when it's seated and you can look from the other side to visually confirm this.
  2. Do the same for the other race.
  3. If you don't have a bearing packer, you will need to pack them by hand. Put a glob of wheel bearing grease in the palm of your hand. Slip the wheel bearing on your index finger like a ring with the wide end facing out. Then tap the bearing into the glob of grease until you see it coming out the other side. When you see it come out turn the whole bearing, don't just rotate it on your finger, and repeat the procedure until the whole bearing has grease coming out the other side. Repeat this for the other bearings.

  1. Now that we have the races installed and bearings packed, we can put everything back together. Starting with the inner bearing put a bed of grease on the surface of the race and then push the inner wheel bearing into it. Take the new grease seal and tap it into place, don't bend or distort it. You can use a small block of wood to help.
  2. Put a coating of grease inside the hub between the two races and on the spindle -- too much is better than too little. If any moisture should happen to get inside, the grease will keep the metal from rusting.
  3. Slide the brake rotor or drum straight onto the spindle. It should slide on easily. If it doesn't, the bearing is cocked a little. Slide it off and make sure the bearing is sitting flat and try again.
  4. Once it's on, grease the outer race and slide the outer wheel bearing on. Slide the washer on. The washer will probably have a tab that will align with the spindle, make sure that you line them up when you put it in.
  5. Place the nut on the spindle and tighten it by hand until it won't go anymore. Spin the rotor or drum a few times back and forth and then tighten the nut more by hand. This insures that the bearings are seated. Do it a couple of times until you can't get it any tighter by hand.
  6. Now tighten the nut ¼ turn, no more than 16 foot-pounds. If you have a castellated nut, line it up with the hole going through the spindle. Install a NEW cotter pin. If you have a retaining ring, place it on the nut and install the pin. Never reuse the old cotter pin and make sure you use it.
  7. Put a small blob of grease on the inside of the dust cap and tap it into place, being careful not to crush it. Make sure it is fully seated.That's it, you're ready to roll nice and smooth!

May 06, 2011 | Geo Storm Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Wheel bearing


I don't know, let me get this straight, you have the hub off and can't get the bearing out? Or you can't get the hub off, Or you got the hub off and half of the bearing came off and you can't get the race off? I will start at the top, the hub and bearing should come off, just with a bump from your hand, after taking off the bolt and washer, then the seal on the back should pull off the race, If not, the seal will stay with the race and the hub will be off. If the race is stuck on the spindle, tap it lightly, to break the seal, if it is welded on from a bearing overheating, you might have to split it with a dremel cutoff wheel or a big hammer, drive it off. Getting the bearings out of the hub should be done with a drift pin and hammer, going back and forth, Take the seal with it.You will be replacing the whole thing. Putting them back with a socket almost as big as the bearing itself, grease it up even though it is sealed, and snug up the nut not too tight, but no wobble either. Hope this helps.

Feb 15, 2010 | 1996 Dodge Neon

1 Answer

How do i replace front wheel bearings on a 1991 subaru lyale 4wd wagon ?


  1. Remove the steering knuckle assembly from the vehicle, and secure in a soft-jawed vise.
  2. Drive out the hub from the steering knuckle. If the inner bearing race remains in the hub, press it out.

    NOTE Be careful not to scratch the polished area of the hub.

  3. Remove the rotor shield.
  4. Remove the inner and outer seals.
  5. Remove the snapring from the steering knuckle.
  6. Press the inner bearing race to remove the outer bearing.
  7. If equipped with ABS, remove the tone ring.
  8. Press the wheel lugs from the hub.

    NOTE To prevent deforming the hub, do not hammer the lugs out.

To install:
  1. Press new wheel lugs into the hub.
  2. If equipped, clean all foreign material from the hub and tone ring. Install the tone ring.
  3. Clean the inside of the steering knuckle.
  4. Remove the plastic lock from the inner race and press a new, greased bearing into the hub by pressing the outer race.
  5. Install the snapring into its groove.
  6. Press a new outer oil seal until it contacts the bottom of the housing.
  7. Press a new inner oil seal until it contacts the circlip.
  8. Apply grease to the oil seal lips.
  9. Install the rotor shield and tighten the bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
  10. Attach the hub to the steering knuckle.
  11. Press a new bearing into the hub by driving the inner race.
  12. Install the steering knuckle.
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Front axle and bearing assembly—Sedan, Coupe, Loyale, XT, Wagon and Brat

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Driving out the inner bearing assembly

87e8ff5.gif
Pressing the bearing in

Oct 19, 2009 | 1991 Subaru Loyale

2 Answers

Grease leaking from the front passenger


Inner, (Large), wheel bearing has failed. This has caused the grease seal to fail.
Solution is to replace the bearing, and seal.

1.Check the bearing race in the brake rotor. If any pits, scoring, or other evidence of break down is present, the bearing race must be replaced also.

2.Check the outer wheel bearing and bearing race also. The inner bearing receives the most wear, but cleaning, and inspection of both bearings, and races is a standard procedure.

3.Observe the area on the spindle where the grease seal contacts. Insure that the spindle area is of good repair, and no scoring is evident.

The Black residue that you observe is grease mixed with brake dust.

The vehicle must be jacked up in the front, with safety stands placed in the proper area on both sides. Wheel chocks should be used behind the rear tires. The vehicle should be on a flat hard surface.

The wheel/tire is removed, then the brake caliper. The caliper is not removed from the brake hose, but hung from a hanger device, from the frame of the vehicle. (Small rubber tie down strap? Wire clothes hanger?)

Then the dust cap is removed, cotter pin, and spindle nut. Ease the brake rotor out, be ready to catch the outer bearing. Remove the brake rotor.

Rotor laying on two small wood blocks, (2x4's? 4x4?), blocks under rotor face. (Where the brake pads rub against)
Blocks placed so area of grease seal is not resting on them. Rotor is laying on blocks with outside of rotor facing up. (Outside of rotor faces outside of Tahoe)

Take a long punch, and tap out the grease seal from the inside of the rotor. Through the hole where the spindle goes through. Be careful that the punch is resting on the metal ring of the seal, and not the bearing race edge.


Oct 11, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

Replacing brakes and resurfacing rotors


Front rotors on a 2 wheel drive means you have to take out bearings and all, it is recomended that you replace the bearings and races because they will have to be removed to turn the rotors might add 30 bucks to the total , you should check around because some rotors are cheap enough to replace instead of turning them. You can re-use the bearings as long as you are careful not to damage the races
Remove the brakes, caliper and caliper braket, remove center dust cap, remove cotterkey and spindel nut, pull rotor off you might need to give it a whack with a deadblow hammer to get it off of the seal in the back, front bearing should fall out in your hand ,with the rotor off gently pry the rear grease seal out (have a new one on hand they damage easy) remove rear bearing. Clean all the grease out of the rotor center so you can see what you are doing, once cleaned with the front of the rotor on the table you should see some notches at the bottom race,this is where you will place your punch to remove the race, flip the rotor over and do the same to remove the other race. Borrow or rent the proper tool to put the races back in, they have to go in straight and you will probably damage the races putting them back in with a punch. When you put it all back together remember to re grease everything. Do not over tighten the spindle nut when putting the rotor back on,tighten it enough to take out any play then tighten it just enough to line up the holes for the cotterkey. Then take it to a mechanic and get the bearing runout checked and set.then put your brakes back on

Mar 23, 2009 | 1991 Ford F250

1 Answer

Can't pull out the hub bearing assembly on a 1993 Saturn SL


  1. Remove the steering knuckle assembly from the vehicle, as described earlier in this section.
  2. For 1991 vehicles, remove the 3 dust shield fasteners and separate the shield from the assembly.
  3. If equipped, remove the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) wheel speed sensor from the knuckle.
  4. Assemble wheel bearing removing tool SA9159S or equivalent using the hub driver, hub driver screw, bridge retainer and bridge. Install the tool to the knuckle and secure the assembly in a vise using the bridge as the vise contact point.
  5. Hold the hub driver with a wrench and tighten the hub driver screw to remove the hub. If the inner bearing race is pulled out with the hub, remove the race with a bearing race remover. The service tool can be used by assembling the inner race puller, 2 bridge retainer plates, 2 bolts and 2 flat washers.
  6. Inspect the hub at the bearing location for pitting, scoring or wear, and replace if necessary.
  7. Remove the assembly from the vise and remove the wheel hub removal tools.
  8. Remove the bearing retainer snapring.
  9. Position the knuckle in a shop press on the knuckle support tube, and press the bearing from the knuckle with a small driver.
  10. Inspect the knuckle bore for pitting, scoring, wear or corrosion. If damage cannot be easily cleaned with light sanding, the knuckle must be replaced.

Mar 08, 2009 | 1993 Saturn SL2

2 Answers

Left rear wheel bearing


Hi

Quite easy !

Slacken your wheel nuts, Jack up the car, support on an axle stand, remove the wheel.

Knock off the little domed dust cap with a screwdriver.

Remove the split pin, and undo the nut.

The drum should now pull off if you remember to let off the hand brake !

Pull out the inner seal and the bearing race will fall out, also remove the outer bearing race.

Now you have to knock out the 2 bearing tracks from the drum hub.

Clean up the drum, carefully tap in the 2 new bearing tracks with a socket, and then grease the bearing races liberally with LM bearing grease.

Fit the bearing races to the drum, along with the new seal, and refit the drum, tighten the castle nut, then just back it off slightly, and fit new split pin, and then the dust cap.

Back on with the wheel, and give it a spin, and check for play by holding tyre, top and bottom.


Good Luck !

Let me know if you have any problems !


Give me a FixYa Rating Please.......Nearly a Guru !

John.








Feb 05, 2009 | 1995 Geo Metro

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