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Back brakes not working , plenty of meat on the shoes, not working with hand or foot brake

Posted by Anonymous on

  • Anonymous Apr 13, 2015

    it is a 1990 ford transit crew cab

  • Anonymous Apr 13, 2015

    no ABS on it

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There are a few different possibilities, the first that seems most likely is that the rear shoes are not properly adjusted. If the rear shoes are adjusted properly and parking brake and all the cables are fully functional then the parking brake will work, it has no choice. To me the fact that the regular hydraulic system is no help and the parking brake (mechanical using cables) does not work would lead me to believe the problem is the adjustment.
But it can be a combination of things, which can include master cylinder, flexible brake hoses, wheel cylinders, brake lines, proportioning valves at least as far as the hydraulic function.

Posted on Apr 13, 2015

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ABS stands for antilock brake system. Sounds like the shoes are badly out of adjustment. That is the only thing which could cause the rears to not work and the e/brake not to work.

Posted on Apr 13, 2015

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 2,963 Answers

Sounds like an ABS problem. (Automatic Brake system) Dealer or very reliable repair shop.

Posted on Apr 13, 2015

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How do i adjust hand break new shoes fitted on a smart for two hand break lever is all the way uo ?


Adjusting the Hand Brake is quite easy

At the bottom of the Hand Brake Lever , you will see the cable with like nuts (teeth) on the cable locked by the lock on the lever it self, you will need to open the lock , take the cable off the lock , drop the handle down and put the cable back on the lever and lock it.

That is how the hand brake is adjusted on the Smart car 2002 model
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Mar 14, 2016 | Smart Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Why wont a97 f350 parking brake adjust when backing up and applying brakes


self adjusting action of the brakes only applies to the foot brake action for the shoes. hand brake is adjusted by cable adjustment or cable at the hand brake lever adjustment

Feb 27, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I am tearing my hair out as I have replaced all cables, brake shoes and had the drums skimmed but the hand brake still doesn't work any suggestions?


pull the drums back off and check how the hand brake cable is attached. pull the cable from the back and see if the shoes open out. It is possible to put the handbrake actuator in incorrectly so that the shoes do not move outwards when the cable is pulled. Next reassemble the drums and pull the cable again from the back and see it that stops the drum from turning. Check to see how far the hand piece comes out /up or down if it is a foot operated lever. In all cases correct adjust is around 3-4 clicks of the ratchet . If it comes all the way out check and adjust the cable at the hand ( if it has 2 cables to the handle or if the cable goes from wheel to the other and there is just the one cable up to the handle piece then adjust it where the single cable pulls on the one that goes to the back shoes

Dec 04, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Why would my emergency brake not hold? I have installed new drums, dealer replaced cable three yrs ago and has not been tight since. I have gone back several times, and had adjustments, what else can be...


Make sure you have lots of "meat" on your brake shoes.
Emergency brakes only apply rear brakes by using shoes against the drum, that are pulled by the cable, that's attached to the emergency brake lever / pedal....and actuated by the driver.

It has to be one of those three components...may have to pull the drum and actuate the pedal / lever to see if the cable spreads the shoes and make adjustments from there.

If your back brakes don't hold...it can also cause the ABS light to illuminate...

Hope this helps...

Aug 27, 2011 | 2003 GMC Envoy

2 Answers

I left my car (Mercedes C180 auto 1994) with a mechanic to replace the back and front brakes. In the process, the mechanic said he had to replace the calipers on the brakes. When I drove the car home and...


I would say one of two things happened. first maybe the parking brake shoes need adjustment. the most common that i see all the time even with newwer cars and trucks, the rear brakes are set up two ways, the type your car uses is the disc rear brakes used to stop the car and then for the parking brake it uses shoes inside the rear of the brake rotor, inside the rotor it gets very rusty and the shoes tend to rust awat from the metal mounting braket it comes on. i see this all the time, when you go to remove the rotor as you slide the rotor off the shoes fall apart and can not go back on, as along as the rotor is not removed it will stay in place, this problem would of occured anyway it would of taken a while longer and then you would of heard noise from rear wheels but it happened sooner due to removing the rotors, its not there fault but they should of called you and told you that you would need parking brake shoes but thought that you may not use the parking brake which is a bad thought in there part. maybe its just an adjustment that need to be made to the parking brake. heres a picture of the rear shoes to show you the metal bracket the shoes come apart from. another thing is that if the rotors were replaced then that explains it more as the old rotors contain rust and build up and that helped make the parking hold bettter.lets hope it just an adjustment.johnjohn2_137.gif

Aug 06, 2011 | Mercedes-Benz 190-Class Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replacing rear brakes



REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
It is a good idea to only disassemble and assemble one side at a time, leaving the other side intact as a reference.

  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  2. Remove the brake drum.
  3. Disconnect the parking brake rear cable and conduit.
  4. Remove the brake shoe hold-down springs and brake shoe hold-down pins.
  5. Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw spring.
  6. Remove the brake shoe adjusting lever and adjuster screw.
  7. Remove the brake shoe retracting spring.
  8. Remove the brake shoes from the backing plate.
  9. Remove and discard the parking brake lever clip. Remove the washer.
  10. Remove the parking brake lever from the rear brake shoe.

To install:
  1. Thoroughly clean the backing plate with brake cleaning solvent and dry completely.
  2. Use silicone grease to lubricate the brake backing plate-to-brake shoe contact areas.
  3. Apply a light coating of premium grease to the threaded areas of the adjuster. Turn the adjuster in and out to spread the lubricant. Turn the adjuster all the way down on the screw and loosen one-half turn.
  4. Install the parking brake lever to the rear (secondary) brake shoe with a new clip.
  5. Position the brake shoes on the backing plate and install the brake shoe hold-down springs.
  6. Attach the parking brake rear cable and conduit to the parking brake lever.
  7. Attach the brake shoe retracting spring.

The socket end of the brake adjuster screw is stamped with "R" or "L" to indicate that it is to be installed either on the right (passenger's side) or left (driver's side) of the vehicle. The adjuster nuts can be distinguished by the number of grooves machined around the body of the nut. Two grooves indicate a right-hand adjuster nut and one groove indicates a left-hand adjuster nut. Another way to identify brake adjuster assemblies is to check thread pitch. The right side adjuster assembly has right-hand threads and the left side has left-hand threads. If installed correctly, the brake adjuster assembly will increase in length when the brake shoe adjusting lever is operated.
  1. Install brake adjuster screw in the slots on the brake shoes. The wider slot on the socket end must fit in the slot on the front (primary) brake shoe.
  2. Install the brake shoe adjusting lever on the lever pin.
  3. Install the brake adjusting screw in the slot on the secondary brake shoe and in the slot on the brake shoe lever. The brake shoe adjusting lever should contact the brake adjuster screw.
  4. Adjust the brake shoes.
  5. Install the drums.


ADJUSTMENTS

The drum brakes are self-adjusting and require a manual adjustment only after the brake shoes have been replaced, or when the length of the adjusting screw has been changed while performing some other service operation.
Drum Installed

  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  2. Remove the rubber plug from the adjusting slot on the backing plate.
  3. Insert a Brake Adjustment Tool (D81L-1103-C) or equivalent into the slot and engage the lowest possible tooth on the starwheel. Move the end of the brake spoon downward to move the starwheel upward and expand the adjusting screw. Repeat this operation until the brakes lock the wheels.
  4. Insert a small screwdriver or piece of firm wire (coat hanger wire) into the adjusting slot and push the automatic adjusting lever out and free of the starwheel on the adjusting screw and hold it there.
  5. Engage the topmost tooth possible on the starwheel with the brake adjusting spoon. Move the end of the adjusting spoon upward to move the adjusting screw starwheel downward and contract the adjusting screw. Back off the adjusting screw starwheel until the wheel spins freely with a minimum of drag. Keep track of the number of turns that the starwheel is backed off, or the number of strokes taken with the brake adjusting spoon.
  6. Repeat this operation for the other side. When backing off the brakes on the other side, the starwheel adjuster must be backed off the same number of turns to prevent side-to-side brake pull.
  7. When the brakes are adjusted, make several stops while backing the vehicle to equalize the brakes on both of the wheels.
  8. Lower the vehicle.

Drum Removed
See Figure 2


0900c152800ae432.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: When using a brake adjustment gauge, first measure the inside diameter of the drum (top) and then adjust the brakes shoes to the proper outside diameter (bottom)

  1. Remove the brake drum.
  2. Make sure that the shoe-to-contact pad areas are clean and properly lubricated.
  3. Using a Brake Adjustment Gauge (D81L-1103-A) or equivalent, check the inside diameter of the drum.
  4. Measure across the diameter of the assembled brake shoes, at their widest point.
  5. Turn the adjusting screw so that the diameter of the shoes is 0.030 in. (0.76mm) less than the brake drum inner diameter.
  6. Install the drum.


INSPECTION

See Figure 3


0900c152800ae433.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: Measure brake shoe thickness in several places around the shoe
Inspect the brake shoes for wear using a ruler or Vernier caliper. Compare measurements to the brake specifications chart. If the lining is thinner than specification or there is evidence of the lining being contaminated by brake fluid or oil, replace all brake pad assemblies (a complete axle set).

Dec 19, 2010 | 1998 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

How to reset hand brake toyota avalon 2005


you have to check the e-brake shoes. these shoes live inside the rear brake rotors. the shoes will either just need to be adjusted or possibly replaced if they cracked from the heat of driving w/ them engaged. sorry there's not a quick fix to this one

Sep 29, 2009 | 2002 Toyota Avalon

1 Answer

1996 geo metro lsi 4 cyl. not antilock. new shoes and pads. all bled and adjusted. rear brakes will not lock up. I can turn rear wheel by hand with helper holding foot brake hand brake locks it up tight.


Know how you feel I've been there! Although your friend can't turn it dosent meen you have a good brake. so its not the reason it is jacked up that you have a brake It's stopping it but not enough when you are driving. Did you adjust them up after you changed the shoe's. If you did then they are just not bedded in.You will know this by pulling the hand brake when its moving it should slide the back wheel's. If the hand brake does'nt work properly then drive it with the handbrake pulled up until you hear the engine rev's go down. Let the handbrake off and ter the foot brake. You should have brake's. Hope this help's it works for me.

Aug 14, 2009 | Geo Metro Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Put in new brake shoes on VW POLO


New shoes have more meat on them, thus will normally be too tight against drum. Did you back off the adjusters to compensate for that?

Jan 30, 2009 | 2002 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

1 Answer

BRAKES


hi if one sides wearing a lot more than the other there is a problem with the caliper or the linkes seizing on if its one pad this would seem likley as good brake pads drove correctly will last 35000 i bet you had to pay for the replacement pads yates210456

Jul 11, 2008 | 2006 Hyundai Elantra

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