Question about Ford F-350

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Contact between brake caliper and disc brake on Ford f350 possible ujoint problem or ball joints some up and down movement in hub when wheel is removed

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  • Ford Master
  • 373 Answers

Since you mentioned U-joint, I'll assume you're talking about a 4x4 F350 front wheel. I am not that familiar with the F350 4x4, but if the rotor is touching the brake components (and you have good pads), the problem is not the ball joints or the u-joint. It is most likely the wheel bearings.
And if it's touching the caliper or anchor bracket, the bearings are pretty bad.
Jack the wheel off the ground. Grab the top and bottom of the tire, and see if there is any "play" in and out to the truck. There should be virtually no play. If not convinced, check the other side for comparison.

Posted on Apr 13, 2015

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

yotaguy
  • 232 Answers

SOURCE: replacing CV Joints

Yes you can remove the drive shaft by unbolting the bottom ball joint,then removing the nut that holds the shaft in the hub I would'nt recommend trying to replace just the CV joint as this can be a very complicated procedure involving specialized tools and more than just general mechanical skill,this isn't true of all,as some CV's come apart fairly easily.If the joint is bad you should probably just replace the axle.Remember to match mark any adjustable parts you may have to disassemble,and when you reassemble make sure to check the splines of the shaft and the drive hub,remove any foreign material and carefully file or sand any burs or scratches,any of these can cause the spline to bind on reassembly and possibly cause irreparable damage to one or both parts.Good luck hope this helps.

Posted on Apr 10, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: ford f350 drum brake

Don't listen to the last guy. The drum does not just slide off. You have to remove the axle by removing the eight 5/8" bolts and pulling it out. Inside the hub you will find a ratcheting lock nut. Visible will be 4 slots where a special socket fits. You can buy the socket from a parts store or you can just use a 1/4" punch and slowly hammer to slowly thread the nut off. Drivers side is left hand thread while the passenger side is right hand thread. Remove the nut and the outer bearing will fall out (so catch it before it hits the dirt). Then slide the drum off. While you inside there it is a good idea to replace the axle seal. It's about $30 and an easy change.

Posted on Apr 19, 2009

joecoolvette
  • 5660 Answers

SOURCE: how do i install front hub onto the ball joint on

You didn't indicate which ball joint, Upper or Lower. But that's okay, I'll answer for both!

Upper ball joint:
1.Use a small floor jack under the lower A-Arm. This keeps the spindle, (Hub), from moving down. Now use a bar to put force down on the upper A-Arm. I use a large pry bar with a rubber handle, that is about 3-1/2 feet long. I realize not everyone has one of these babies just laying around. (I work on heavy wheeled vehicles for the Army. 5-Ton, PLS, Hemmit, etc.) You'll need some sort of long pry bar to put pressure down on the upper A-Arm. This forces the tapered part of the ball joint into the tapered hole of the spindle, and keeps it from spinning. Make sure the tapered part of the
ball joint is clean, as well as the tapered hole in the spindle. NO oil, No grease, No dirt.

2.Lower ball joint. Just using the jack will force the A-Arm up, until it puts pressure against the ball joint. When the car starts to lift up, STOP! Bring it down just a little. You want your vehicle to be safely supported by those
jack stands, you put underneath the frame on both sides. Lifting the car up off the jack stands is a recipe for disaster! If the ball joint still spins, then the threads of the ball joint, and/or the threads of the nut are damaged.
Use a thread die, and a tap to dress these threads.

Tips for safety from me!
When working on the ball joints Do Not sit on the tire you have removed!
Squat next to your work. Make a plan in your mind on where you will go, should the vehicle start to fall. Yeah, "I know it will never happen," has crushed many a mechanic! You can always replace parts, or the entire car. YOU can NEVER be replaced!

Have a helper help you if possible. If nothing else, the helper can be observant of what is going on around you. With your head under the fender, it may be too late to jump out of the way. The helper can also put the pressure on the bar, as you tighten the ball joint nut.

Posted on Jul 18, 2009

SOURCE: 05 f350. trying to remove hub assembly on front

Once you remove the locking hub, the hub and bearing unbolt. There are two different styles of locking hubs. One is held on with a large snap ring that you can pinch with your hands. Once that's out you can pull the locking hub off. The other style bolts on with about 6 or 7 small allen or torx head bolts. Once you remove the bolts the hub pulls out also. They can sometimes get stuck and will require some force.
The axle is also a bit tricky to remove if you've never done it before. You will need two fairly large pry bars and pry between the u-joint ears and the axle tube evenly on both sides to push it out. The axle seal is very tight, also pricey if you damage it, so be careful.

Posted on Jul 06, 2010

emissionwiz
  • 75817 Answers

SOURCE: A month or so ago

Yes I know the reason, the Antilock brake system (ABS) hydraulic control unit is defective, if has a sticking valve and must be repalced.

Posted on May 18, 2011

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1 Answer

How do I remove drive axle on a 1992 geo prizm


cv axle service is covered in the FSM and at alldata.com
need books or ?
you can read the Geo book or the corolla book, same car.

the books and online have lots of photos,sorry, im not doing all that....

  1. Remove the wheel cover.
  2. Remove the cotter pin, hub nut cap, hub nut and washer.
  3. Loosen the wheel nuts.
  4. Elevate and safely support the car.
  5. Remove the front wheel.
  6. Remove the lower control arm to ball joint attaching nuts and bolts.
  7. Use a ball joint separator such as GM J-24319-01 or equivalent to remove the tie rod ball joint from the knuckle.
  8. Remove the bolts holding the brake caliper bracket to the steering knuckle. Use stiff wire to suspend the caliper out of the way; do not let the caliper hang by its hose. Remove the brake disc.
  9. Using a puller such as GM J-25287 or equivalent, push the axle from the hub.
The Prizm axle can be separated from the hub using a brass or plastic hammer. Nova requires the use of the puller.
  1. Use a slide hammer and appropriate end fitting (GM J-2619-01 and J 35762 or equivalents) to pull the driveshaft from the transaxle. Remove the shaft from the car.
To install:
  1. Install shaft into transaxle. If necessary, use a long brass drift and a hammer to drive the housing ribs onto the inner joint.
  2. Install the shaft into the wheel hub.
  3. Install the lower control arm to the lower ball joint. Tighten the nuts and bolts to 59 ft. lbs.
  4. Install the tie rod end to the steering knuckle and tighten the nut to 36 ft. lbs.
  5. Install the brake disc; install the brake caliper and tighten the bolts to 65 ft. lbs.
  6. Install the wheel.
  7. Install the hub nut and washer.
  8. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  9. Tighten the wheel lugs to 76 ft. lbs. Tighten the hub nut to 137 ft. lbs.
  10. Install the nut, cap, cotter pin and washer. Install the wheel cover.

the next page covers service of the CV axles.
log in and read.

Oct 12, 2014 | 1992 Geo Prizm

Tip

Mazda 323/Protege front wheel bearing


The moment you can hear a loud noise coming from front wheels while driving straight that means that your wheel bearings are ready for replacement. In a Mazda 323 BJ (1999-2004) it usually comes every 150-200 thousand kilometers (95-120k miles). To replace the bearing (do two of them in one go even if only one can be heard) you need to do as follows:
Loosen the nut on the half shaft, jack up the car, remove the wheel, dismantle brake caliper and brake disc, remove all ball joints attached to the hub, detach the shock absorber from the hub (no need of removing it completely), once you have the hub basically hanging on the half shaft, untie the nut and pull the hub out of the shaft so you can hold it in your hands. You will need to go to a garage with a 12ton (minimum) press, no point of trying to hammer the bearing out as you may damage the hub and your whole work will be for nothing. Get the old bearing pressed out and the new one pressed in.The Mazda part numbers for the front bearing kit are: B455-33-047A(B,D),GJ21-33-042B,G304-33-065,B21M-33-048.
After getting the bearing fitted into the hub, all we need is to reverse the whole process, put the shaft into the hub, attached the hub to the shock absorber (makes it easier to attach the rest), put the nut and tight it just as much to feel there is nearly no movement (do not overtight it as this might damage the bearing), attach all ball joints back to the hub. Make sure all nuts are tight, use a
tension wrench when needed, put the brake disc back on the hub, install the brake caliper, once you have all them on and tight put on the wheel, then get someone to press the brake while you tight the shaft nut with the tension wrench, check the wheel for play or hard movement. Lower the car down and take a slow drive around (do not accelerate sharply or brake rapidly, just a gentle drive around. Normally a wheel bearing should be in correct position and use after about 200km (120 miles) distance. After that check if it is not overheating (too tight) or there is a play (too loose). Tight or untight if necessary, recheck after same 200km (120 miles).

on Apr 24, 2010 | Mazda 323 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replace cv joints


Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.



FRONT DRIVESHAFTS

REMOVAL
  1. Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and nut lock Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut from the end of the stub axle.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
  5. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
  6. Remove the two front disc brake caliper to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts
  7. Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  8. Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake Caliper Do not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
  9. Remove the brake rotor from the hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
  11. Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 Tie Rod End Removal From Steering Knuckle Arm
  12. Remove the steering knuckle to ball joint stud, clamping nut and bolt Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment from the steering knuckle.
  13. Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering Knuckle Note: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut. NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
  14. Pull steering knuckle assembly out and away from the outer C/V joint of the driveshaft assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  15. Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
  16. Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle When removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
INSTALLATION
  1. Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
  2. Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
  3. Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
  4. Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
  5. Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
  6. Slide drive shaft back into front hub and bearing assembly. Then install steering knuckle onto the stud of the ball joint assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  7. Install a new steering knuckle to ball joint clamping bolt and nut Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment Tighten the clamping bolt and nut to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  8. Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
  9. Install braking disc on hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  11. Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
  12. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
  13. Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  14. Lower vehicle.
  15. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.) Torquing Front Stub Axle To Hub Nut
  16. Install the spring wave washer on the end of the stub axle.
  17. Install the hub nut lock, and a new cotter pin Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the hub nut lock as shown in Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut
  18. Check for correct fluid level in transaxle assembly. Refer to Group 21, Transaxle for the correct fluid level checking procedure for the type of transaxle being checked.
  19. Set front toe on vehicle to required specification.

May 07, 2014 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

Got hit from the left side but theright frontwheel was the one tilted towards insideof the wheel well can it be the stable lizers


it can be any part of the front suspension or brake system including drive train damage jack up right side and with wheel still on place hands at top and bottom of wheel and push and pull in and out if movement usually a ball joint but ball joints dont give off a grinding noise ===now grab tire at the 9 and 3 position front and back -push and pull if loose possible tie rod damage or steering component damaged this also doesnt give off a grinding noise unless bent into a turning part =====turn wheel and listen and look at cv axle and around brake area if noise remove wheel and now inspect brake caliper ,brakes ,hub and axle for noise these components can give you your grinding noise repair or replace damaged components the other tests performed were for possible damaged parts since wheel was bent inward

Apr 09, 2014 | 2005 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

2004 F-150 4X4 XLT EXT CAB 5.4L NEED FRONT WHEEL HUB ASSEMBLY DIAGRAM


  1. n0051415.gif
  1. Item
Part Number Description 1 W706540-S900 Axle-to-wheel hub nut (4x4 only)
Removal Note 2 - Wheel speed sensor harness connector
Removal Note 3 2027 Anchor plate bolt (2 required) 4 - Brake caliper, pads and anchor plate
Removal Note 5 1125 Brake disc 6 1107 Wheel hub-to-wheel knuckle bolts 7 1104 Wheel bearing and hub assembly
Removal Note 8 N642567-S36 Tie-rod end-to-wheel knuckle nut 9 W707254-S427 Lower ball joint-to-wheel knuckle nut 10 W520215-S427 Upper ball joint-to-wheel knuckle nut 11 3K185 Wheel knuckle
Installation Note 12 W710279 Integrated wheel and bolt (3 required)


Mar 07, 2011 | 2004 Ford F150

1 Answer

The front drivers side hub is making noise when i hit bumps, when i lock the hubs in it stops making the noise. what's wrong? 2000 F350 Diesel


sounds like you have a bearing going out in the hub. The reason it stops making noise with 4 wheel engaged is having the truck in 4 wheel drives puts power to the front hub. Which gives it more stability. In other words you have power which helps bind and hold the bearings from more extensive travel then with it disengaged. The other possibility is you have a ball joint going out. If you are capable of inspection on these to possibilities you will need to jack it up and inspect ball joints for movement and look for abnormal up and down movement of the hub. If not take your truck in and get the front end inspected at a brake or an alignment shop.

Mar 19, 2010 | 2000 Ford F350 Super Duty Super Cab

1 Answer

2001 Explorer Sport 2WD, 4.0L Automatic. How to replace the drivers side UPPER BALL JOINT? Would this cause the brake rotor to drag on the caliper support aon turns, especially when turning in reverse?...


check the axle nut and the wheel bearing for play.the caliper bracket is mounted to the hub.the ball joint moves the top of the hub,but movement in the bearing is more likely the cause.

Jan 29, 2010 | Ford Explorer Sport Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a bad wheel bearing how do I replace it


Hub and Bearing Assembly
ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Do not begin this removal procedure unless the following parts are available:
  • A new front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477) (Step 1).
  • A new inboard halfshaft joint stub shaft circlip.
Once removed, these parts must not be reused during assembly. Their torque holding ability or retention capability is diminished during removal.

Removal
  1. Turn ignition switch to the OFF position and place the steering column in the unlock position.
  1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Discard the front axle wheel hub retainer. It is a torque prevailing design and cannot be reused. If loosened, the retainer must be removed and a new one installed.
    Remove and discard front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).
  1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
  1. NOTE: Make sure steering column is in the unlocked position, and do not use a hammer to separate tie rod end (3A130) from the front wheel knuckle (3K185) . Use extreme care not to damage boot seal.

    Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut. Discard cotter pin and nut.
  1. Using Tie Rod End Remover 211-001 (TOOL-3290-D) or equivalent and Tie Rod End Remover Adapter 211-087 (T81P-3504-W), remove tie rod end from front wheel knuckle.
  1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to remove the nut, or bearing and seal damage will result. Loosen the nut first, then remove nut from stud using the hex hold feature.
    For SHO vehicles, remove vinyl cover from upper link stud.
    Remove stabilizer bar link (5K484) from front shock absorber (18124) .
  1. Remove disc brake caliper (2B120) and support with wire to obtain working space. Do not allow disc brake caliper to separate from the front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) to prevent contamination of the disc brake guide pin journals. Do not allow disc brake caliper to hang from front brake hose (2078) . Remove front disc brake rotor (1125) . Remove front disc brake rotor from wheel hub (1104) by pulling it off the lug bolt (1107). If front disc brake rotor is difficult to remove from front wheel knuckle , strike front disc brake rotor sharply between lug bolt with a rubber or plastic hammer.
    If front disc brake rotor will not pull off, apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to inboard and outboard rotor/hub mating surfaces. Install 3-Jaw Puller 205-D027 (D80L-1013-A) or equivalent and remove front disc brake rotor by pulling on front disc brake rotor outside diameter and pushing on hub center. If excessive force is required for removal, check front disc brake rotor for lateral runout prior to installation. Refer to Section 06-00.
  1. Remove anti-lock brake sensor mounting bolt and front brake anti-lock sensor (2C204) .
  1. Remove and discard lower ball joint nut. Using Remover Adapter 211-211 (T96P-3010-A1), separate lower ball joint from front suspension lower arm (3078) .
  1. Using Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent, compress front coil spring (5310) until lower ball joint clears front suspension lower arm .
  1. Using Front Hub Remover/Replacer 204-069 (T81P-1104-C), Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1), Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) and Front Hub Installer 204-067 (T81P-1104-A), press front wheel driveshaft joint (3B414) from wheel hub . Wire front wheel driveshaft joint to body to maintain a level position.


    df1570a.gif


    Item Part Number Description 1 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) Metric Hub Remover Adapter 2 204-067 (T81P-1104-A) Front Hub Replacer 3 — Turn Wrench Counterclockwise 4 — Hold Wrench Stationary While Turning Other Wrench 5 204-069 (T81P-1104-C) Front Hub Remover/Replacer 6 204-067 (T81P-1104-A)1 Two Stud Adapter A — Make Sure Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) is Fully Threaded onto 1107 and is Positioned Opposite the Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1)
  1. Remove and discard three hub and bearing retainer bolts from front wheel knuckle .
  1. NOTE: Wheel hub is not pressed into front wheel knuckle . Do not use slide hammer to remove a stuck wheel hub . Do not strike back of inner bearing race. Use of these methods will damage bearing internal parts.

    NOTE: If bearing carrier is corroded to front wheel knuckle , apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to the inboard and outboard wheel hub/knuckle mating surface and allow to soak.

    Remove wheel hub from front wheel knuckle .


    f8656a.gif

Installation
  1. NOTE: If wheel hub is damaged or if any end play is detectable, replace wheel hub . End play is not adjustable. If wheel hub is disassembled, the assembly must be replaced.

    Remove all foreign material from knuckle bearing bore for correct seating of new wheel hub.
  1. Lightly lubricate mating surfaces of bearing corner and front wheel knuckle.
  1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Knuckle bore must be clean enough to allow wheel hub to be completely seated by hand. Do not press or draw wheel hub into place.
    Position wheel hub in front wheel knuckle . Install three new hub and bearing retaining bolts. Tighten to 83-107 Nm (61-78 lb-ft).
  1. Push front wheel driveshaft joint into wheel hub . Hand start front wheel hub retainer.
  1. Slowly release Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent while guiding lower ball joint into front suspension lower arm .
  1. Install new lower ball joint nut. Tighten to 68-92 Nm (50-67 lb-ft).
  1. Install tie rod end into front wheel knuckle . Install new slotted nut and tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). If necessary advance nut to install a new cotter pin.
  1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to tighten nut or bearing and seal damage will result. Install nut using hex hold feature to prevent the stud from rotating.
    Install stabilizer bar link to front shock absorber . Install stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft). For SHO vehicles, install stud cover.
  1. NOTE: Remove rust from the rotor and hub mating surfaces with a medium abrasive pad.

    Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper . Tighten caliper anchor bracket bolts to 88-118 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
  1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: The front axle wheel hub retainer must be tightened to specification immediately during installation. If the retainer is not tightened immediately, the nylon lock will set incorrectly, leading to incorrect torque readings and bearing failure. Any front wheel hub retainer that is not immediately tightened to specification or is loosened must be removed and a new retainer installed.
    Install front axle wheel hub retainer . Tighten to 230-275 Nm (170-203 lb-ft).
  1. Install wheel and tire. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
  1. Lower vehicle.
  1. Pump brake pedal prior to moving vehicle to position brake linings.

May 28, 2009 | 1999 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

I am trying to get the wheel assembly apart to change the front bearings on a 1996 mercury villiger


http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

9ad2184.gif
Item Part Number Description 1 — Cotter Pin 2 — Nut Retainer 3 1131 Insulator 4 3B477 Front Axle Wheel Hub Retainer 5 1195 Front Wheel Outer Bearing Retainer Washer 6 1104 Wheel Hub 7 1107 Lug Bolt 8 3K050 Snap Ring 9 3123 Front Wheel Bearing 10 2K004 Front Disc Brake Rotor Shield 11 3130 Front Wheel Knuckle

Wheel Hub, Wheel Knuckle and Wheel Bearing SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Tie Rod End Separator T85M-3395-A
Removal
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the wheel (1007) and tire assembly.
  3. NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect the front brake hose (2078).

    Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) and suspend it with mechanic's wire out of the way. Refer to Section 06-03 for the removal procedure.
  4. Remove the front disc brake rotor (1125).
  5. Remove and discard the cotter pin.
  6. Remove the nut retainer and insulator.
  7. Remove the front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477) and the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer (1195).




  8. Remove and discard the cotter pin from the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050).
  9. Loosen the front suspension lower arm ball joint nut until it contacts the front wheel driveshaft joint.


    stv~us~en~file=f8063b.gif~gen~ref.gif

  10. Strike the front wheel knuckle with a hammer while pulling down on the front suspension lower arm (3078) until the front suspension lower arm ball joint separates from the front wheel knuckle.




  11. Remove the front suspension lower arm ball joint nut.




  12. Remove the front suspension lower arm ball joint from the front wheel knuckle.
  13. Remove and discard the cotter pin.




  14. Remove the tie rod end nut.




  15. Use Tie Rod End Separator T85M-3395-A to separate the tie rod end (3A130) from the front wheel knuckle.




  16. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor bolt.




  17. Remove the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts.




  18. Remove the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle bolts.
  19. Remove the front shock absorber (18124) from the front wheel knuckle.
  20. Use 2-Jaw Puller D80L-1002-L, or equivalent, to separate the front wheel driveshaft and joint (3B436) from the front wheel knuckle.
  21. Remove the front wheel hub, front wheel knuckle and front wheel bearing as an assembly from the vehicle.
  22. If necessary, match mark and remove the steering stop bolt and steering stop bolt jam nut from the front wheel knuckle.




Installation
  1. Position the front wheel hub, front wheel knuckle and front wheel bearing as an assembly on the front wheel driveshaft and joint.
  1. Install the front wheel knuckle into the front shock absorber.
  1. Install the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle bolts.
  1. Install the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts. Tighten the front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts to 113-123 Nm (83-91 lb-ft).

Apr 10, 2009 | 1996 Mercury Villager

1 Answer

I have a ford f 150 4x4, that the Passager front tire can be moved up and down a little, took off tire, can move front end. Is this a wheel bearing ? How do you get to the wheel bearing ?


If this is a 2005 F-150 4x4. Usually if there is movement up and down, itmight possibly be the lower ball joints and not the wheel bearing, to verify that it is indeed bearing play you can grab a hold of your tire (with tire of the ground) and try and move it side to side instead of up and down. If you can still feel the movement then it is the wheel bearing. To get to the wheelbearing you will first have to remove the tiny center dust cap in the middle of the wheel. There should be a 13mm bolt you will need to remove under that cap. Next you will have to remove the brake caliper and caliper bridge, then remove the brake rotor. On the backside of the knuckle assembly you will see 4 bolts that hold the hub assembly (your wheel bearing) on. There also may be a plastic ring around the back of the hub assembly too that has vacuum lines running to it for the vacuum hub,this will be held on by 4 or so 8mm bolts, once all these bolts and the4 bolts holding the actuall hub assembly on are removed, you should be able to remove the hub (bearing) assembly from the front of the knuckle assy. Hope this helps.

Mar 10, 2009 | 2005 Ford F-150

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