Question about Ford F-350
Since you mentioned U-joint, I'll assume you're talking about a 4x4 F350 front wheel. I am not that familiar with the F350 4x4, but if the rotor is touching the brake components (and you have good pads), the problem is not the ball joints or the u-joint. It is most likely the wheel bearings.
And if it's touching the caliper or anchor bracket, the bearings are pretty bad.
Jack the wheel off the ground. Grab the top and bottom of the tire, and see if there is any "play" in and out to the truck. There should be virtually no play. If not convinced, check the other side for comparison.
Posted on Apr 13, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: replacing CV Joints
Yes you can remove the drive shaft by unbolting the bottom ball joint,then removing the nut that holds the shaft in the hub I would'nt recommend trying to replace just the CV joint as this can be a very complicated procedure involving specialized tools and more than just general mechanical skill,this isn't true of all,as some CV's come apart fairly easily.If the joint is bad you should probably just replace the axle.Remember to match mark any adjustable parts you may have to disassemble,and when you reassemble make sure to check the splines of the shaft and the drive hub,remove any foreign material and carefully file or sand any burs or scratches,any of these can cause the spline to bind on reassembly and possibly cause irreparable damage to one or both parts.Good luck hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
SOURCE: ford f350 drum brake
Don't listen to the last guy. The drum does not just slide off. You have to remove the axle by removing the eight 5/8" bolts and pulling it out. Inside the hub you will find a ratcheting lock nut. Visible will be 4 slots where a special socket fits. You can buy the socket from a parts store or you can just use a 1/4" punch and slowly hammer to slowly thread the nut off. Drivers side is left hand thread while the passenger side is right hand thread. Remove the nut and the outer bearing will fall out (so catch it before it hits the dirt). Then slide the drum off. While you inside there it is a good idea to replace the axle seal. It's about $30 and an easy change.
Posted on Apr 19, 2009
You didn't indicate which ball joint, Upper or Lower. But that's okay, I'll answer for both!
Upper ball joint:
1.Use a small floor jack under the lower A-Arm. This keeps the spindle, (Hub), from moving down. Now use a bar to put force down on the upper A-Arm. I use a large pry bar with a rubber handle, that is about 3-1/2 feet long. I realize not everyone has one of these babies just laying around. (I work on heavy wheeled vehicles for the Army. 5-Ton, PLS, Hemmit, etc.) You'll need some sort of long pry bar to put pressure down on the upper A-Arm. This forces the tapered part of the ball joint into the tapered hole of the spindle, and keeps it from spinning. Make sure the tapered part of the
ball joint is clean, as well as the tapered hole in the spindle. NO oil, No grease, No dirt.
2.Lower ball joint. Just using the jack will force the A-Arm up, until it puts pressure against the ball joint. When the car starts to lift up, STOP! Bring it down just a little. You want your vehicle to be safely supported by those
jack stands, you put underneath the frame on both sides. Lifting the car up off the jack stands is a recipe for disaster! If the ball joint still spins, then the threads of the ball joint, and/or the threads of the nut are damaged.
Use a thread die, and a tap to dress these threads.
Tips for safety from me!
When working on the ball joints Do Not sit on the tire you have removed!
Squat next to your work. Make a plan in your mind on where you will go, should the vehicle start to fall. Yeah, "I know it will never happen," has crushed many a mechanic! You can always replace parts, or the entire car. YOU can NEVER be replaced!
Have a helper help you if possible. If nothing else, the helper can be observant of what is going on around you. With your head under the fender, it may be too late to jump out of the way. The helper can also put the pressure on the bar, as you tighten the ball joint nut.
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
Once you remove the locking hub, the hub and bearing unbolt. There are two different styles of locking hubs. One is held on with a large snap ring that you can pinch with your hands. Once that's out you can pull the locking hub off. The other style bolts on with about 6 or 7 small allen or torx head bolts. Once you remove the bolts the hub pulls out also. They can sometimes get stuck and will require some force.
The axle is also a bit tricky to remove if you've never done it before. You will need two fairly large pry bars and pry between the u-joint ears and the axle tube evenly on both sides to push it out. The axle seal is very tight, also pricey if you damage it, so be careful.
Posted on Jul 06, 2010
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