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Your engine code (DTC P0442 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Small Leak Detected ) should not have anything to do with a ticking sound. The evaporative system keeps you from having a gas smell under the hood and in the car.
As far as ticking goes ... it could be many things. You are correct, it could be lifters. If you take a long screwdriver and with the engine running place the handle end against your ear and touch the blade end to the top of the valve cover the screwdriver will act as a stethescope. If the ticking gets a lot louder somewhere on the valve cover then yes, you have a lifter making noise. If the motor ran really low on oil, and then one or more lifters started ticking you can try running about a half quart of transmission fluid in the oil for about 15 minutes at ididle while gently changing the rpms between idle and about 2500 to see if it loosens up the lifter(s). Change the oil after you do this.
To test the PCV valve, with the engine running pull the PCV valve out of the valve cover (leave it attached to the vaccuum hose) and place the tip of your finger against the now exposed tip of the PCV valve. It should make a snapping noise and **** your finger against the opening in the valve. If it does not, then make sure the vaccuum hose does not have a leak in it. If the hose is good, shut the car off, remove the valve from the vaccuum hose, and use some carburetor spray and clean it out. I clean mine each time I change the spark plugs. If the valve is stuck or clogged this could be causing the oil pooiing problem in the air intake tube you describe from excessive crankcase pressure.
If you still have not found the ticking noise, it could also be in the lower end of the motor. This is the only "bad" place for it to be out of what I have described. If it is a lifter and the noise is not really loud, it is not dangerous to drive.
If those connectors are electrical connections, they may be the reason your car won't start. Plus, you need to change your oil and filter. Driving the car at 270 degrees probably cooked your oil into a sludge.
Check brake system. Resurface brake rotors. Replace pads. Check drums and shoes. Fush system. I use cross drilled rotors and carbon fiber pads. Stop in a hurry. Some Suburbans (94 and up) have slow ABS units that take their time to allow brakes to activate.
What age? What Mileage?
Brake hoses go bad and either prevent brakes from operating or prevent them from pulling back after being applied. Had this problem too.
Also check for vaccuum leaks. TBI engines had a loose metal tube under the TBI unit. I had a vaccuum leak and had to tighten my tube 6 times @ 1/4 turn each. Solved problem.
Try to use some liquid around vaccuum hoses and see if idle changes. Non TBI engines have plastic intake issues.
Check check valve in vaccuum booster. My was bad too.
Molded hose neeed to be replaced. I used two hoses and a brake booster filter in the HELP section to make the 90 degree turn from the hard line to the check valve.
I would check vaccuum hoses are all connected and unbroken.
Sounds like maybe when it "backfired" it popped a vaccuum line loose.
The way I check for Vaccuum leaks is spray WD-40 the entire length of each hose while it is running, when vaccuum sucks in the WD-40 it will "Rev" the engine some.
There are lots of variables which could contribute to this issue...
Assuming your vehicle has an EFI engine, some likely culprits are:
- Vaccuum leak (check & secure all vaccuum hoses)
- Dirty/clogged Air Filter (engines need to breathe)
- Faulty PCV valve (warm up engine, then pinch the hose to PCV valve to stop airflow - if there is NO drop in engine revs, then PCV is clogged/faulty).
- Faulty engine sensor (ie MAP etc) - will require further diagnostics
- Faulty Oxygen sensor (on the exhaust) - engine computer must receive correct air/fuel mixture readings, to run smoothly. Will require further diagnostics
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The heat is controled by a control valve installed in one of the heater hoses. It normally is controled by eather a vaccuum line or a cable coming from inside the truck at the dash where you slide the hot to cold adjustment.Find the valve under the hood at the hose,have someone move the control inside the truck.If its vaccuum you can pull off the hose and see if you have vac.If its a cable you should se it move.