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2000 t&c,battery light on.new battery.alt.tests good.got it back on the road.hit a bump and battery light came on.how can I find this short.on day it's perfect next thing,battery light is back on.

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 3,287 Answers

I suspect that the issue is a result of poor connections at the battery posts. Remove and clean the connections at both the battery + and - posts *AND* the + and - cable clamps / bolts with a small wire brush or a battery post cleaner. Next, mix a small amount of baking soda (1 or 2 tablespoons and 12 oz of water or so) and pour slowly over the top of the battery - do NOT allow it to enter the battery via caps or vents in the caps! Foaming is a sign of battery acid that has leaked on the battery and steals power for the battery much the way leaving a dome light on 24 hrs a day does. Rinse with water or garden hose thoroughly. After cleaning, apply an oxide inhibitor on posts and cable clamps (available at most auto-parts stores) or mix up vasaline & baking soda as shown in the video. Check that the fan belt that turns the alternator (yours may be a serpentine type - one belt for everything) is tight - not loose or otherwise slipping. Have it professionally checked / replaced if unsure.

Posted on Apr 10, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: this 03 mazda tribute has

I have had a string of bad alternators through my shop lately all made by USA alternator. I would breakdown and get an OEM part in this case. I would also bench test alternator prior to installation

Posted on Nov 03, 2008

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 ford zx2, battery light keeps coming on/off,

There seems to be a no charge state in this case. i recommend checking the charging system. use the procedure below to isolate this issue.

Wear protective eye wear and clothing and remove all jewelry when checking your battery and charging system. Jewelry is a good conductor of electricity and is not recommended. Most batteries wear out every 3 to 5 years and need to be replaced. Always replace your battery with an equal replacement battery to assure proper operation. Automotive batteries have a +positive terminal (red), - negative terminal (black). Electricity is stored in the battery and then supplied to the vehicle when the engine is not running. While the engine is running the vehicles alternator charges the battery for future use. (Note: never disconnect the battery while the engine is running. If the battery cable is disconnected from the battery a spark can be generated which can cause the battery to explode or a major electrical malfunction to occur.)

To check a battery surface voltage, remove the positive terminal protective cover. Connect the +positive side meter lead (red) to the positive side battery terminal. Connect the - negative (black) side meter lead to the negative battery terminal. With the vehicle not running and the car sitting over night the battery voltage should be between 12.5 and 12.8 volts.(You will need to use a voltmeter for this testing procedure)

The alternator is rotated by a drive belt driven by the vehicles engine while it is running. Electrical voltage and amperage are generated to recharge the battery and supply voltage to the electrical system of the car. The alternator is held in place with mounting bolts. There is a main electrical wire on the rear of the alternator that supplies voltage to a main voltage junction box. If your alternator is not charging properly, your battery will slowly drain down from operating all the electrical systems in your car and stop the car from running.(most non charge states will be the cause of a loose belt or a low tension rate, due to a mis-adjusted alternator. make sure you have enough tension in the belt for full rotation of the alt pulley)

Next, you will need to check the alternators output with the Amp meter.

Testing the amperage output of the alternator is good for measuring the amount (not the level) of voltage the alternator can produce. This test can be tricky because if the alternator is weak it can still show it as producing amperage. Which is good, but if the voltage is low, it will still allow the battery to go dead. To check the amperage output of an alternator an amp meter is needed. Once the meter is connected start the engine. Next turn on all electrical accessories and raise the engine idle to about 1200 RPM. The alternator should output the max amperage it was designed to produce. Example: a 90 amp alternator should output about 88 amps. Note: An alternator cannot sustain maximum output for long periods of time. If the alternator is forced to operate at maximum output it will overheat and fail. An alternator is designed to operate at max amperage output only for a reasonable amount of time.

((Connect the voltage meter lead the same way you would in a battery static voltage check, Start engine (do not drive) at engine idle the voltage should be between 13.6 to 14.3 volts. If not the alternator may need replacing.)))

Posted on Nov 02, 2009

  • 87 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 pontiac montana wont start battery tested

no Alternator wont stop it from starting or rolling over as long as good battery...try connections on starter..that would be what i looked for first

Posted on Mar 06, 2010

  • 30 Answers

SOURCE: overdrive light blinking

Have a mechanic check for loose wires going to the transmission. Usually when the OD light blicks it's because there is something wrong with the transmission. Have your transmission fluid checked. If it appears brown, dark, or smells burnt have it and the transmission filter replaced immediately. It may also be that you have a leak in the transmission and need to add transmission fluid so that it's at the right level.

Posted on Sep 08, 2010

emissionwiz
  • 76630 Answers

SOURCE: pt cruiser charging problems

The Alternator is controlled by the voltage regulator, type is located inside the Powertrain control module, you guessed it the alternator is computer controlled. You will need the dealer to look into this before you waste anymore money on parts.

Posted on Jun 17, 2012

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Symptoms of a charging system problem. The charging system comprises the alternator, battery and associated wiring. If the alternator should fail to produce a sufficient or stable enough voltage for the car's electronic systems - due to a wiring short, faulty voltage regulator, or corroded electrical connector, for example - the car will run off the "reserve" in the battery for a short time until the battery is eventually depleted. (The battery itself could also contribute to the problem if it has a faulty cell or for some reason is causing the alternator to put out an excessively high voltage in an attempt to compensate.)

So a couple of quick checks: Measure the battery voltage with the car off. Yours sounds like it will be dead; the clicking while attempting to start is the starter relay not getting enough juice. Then the question becomes: Is the battery dead because of age (fails to hold a charge) or because the alternator isn't charging it? To answer this question, measure the voltage at the battery with the car running. (Jump it or substitute a known good 12V battery.) You should see 14+V. If you only see 12V or less, you're seeing only the current battery charge without any contribution from the alt.

Finally, don't assume because the alt isn't putting out anything the alt is at fault. The wiring harness and electrical connector to the back of the alt should be thoroughly examined. (The wiring connector is a known failure point on early models.) The wiring harness should obviously show no signs of burning, melting or chafing and the battery terminals should be corrosion free and tight. If the harness checks out, remove the alt and have it bench tested. Rebuilding usually gives better long term reliability than chain store bought reman units, I'm told.

Long story short, I suspect the voltage regulator in your alternator failed, the battery gave it's all trying to keep your car running, finally gave up and now you have a dead alt and a dead battery. Don't just install a new battery without doing the alternator voltage output tests.

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the alternator field is controlled 100% by PCM reg , inside PCM.
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if lower, its not. (rpm on engine 800 or more)

not scanning the PCM a the CEL glow, you missed the boat.
why not scan it. see why the PCM is upset (DTC errors stored)

see the 2 lower pins below , those go to PCM.
in theory if the field in the old BAD ALT, was shorted.
that could in fact, burn up the PCM regulator.
shorting outputs of PCM , does that in most cases.
im the poor sod that fixes PCM's.so....

1946421-gyllgess1dmtl30sgxtyvqv2-3-0.jpg

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