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What is the CV axle nut torque specification?

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 507 Answers

SOURCE: I need to change my front hub bearing and need to

Most mechanics just use an air impact and goes into it's set nice and snug. When I say nice and snug, I mean the axle is all the way into the back of the new hub and the nut is tight on the other side.

Posted on Apr 27, 2009

warlock61
  • 659 Answers

SOURCE: Axle nut torque spec

184 ft/lb

Posted on May 11, 2009

polarcycle
  • 1392 Answers

SOURCE: torque specs for front spindle (nut hold brake drum in place)

Tighten till the wheel bearing is tight. No one really uses a specification for that, do it by feel. when the nut is tight, and there is no play in the bearing. Should be about 15-20 ft/lbs, with about .001-.003 end play if you need exact numbers though.

Posted on May 30, 2009

tneubauer
  • 437 Answers

SOURCE: Torque Specifications

1. If you are speaking of the large yoke nut there is no "torque spec" per say, instead it is a rotational preload-

From Ford manual:
Use the special tool to hold the pinion flange while tightening the nut to set the preload.

  • Tighten the nut, rotating the pinion occasionally to ensure the differential pinion bearings are seating correctly. Take frequent differential pinion bearing preload readings by rotating the pinion with a Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench. The final reading must be 0.56 Nm (5 lb-in) more than the initial reading taken during removal.
2. If you are looking for the yoke straps that hold the universal in place to the yoke it is 14ft lb for the 4 bolts.

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

  • 87 Answers

SOURCE: what is the final torque on cv axle after replacing wheel bearing

217 ft.lbs.

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

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What size axle nut for 2000ford taurus se


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Sep 28, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I need the axle nut torque specifications


Google Make, Model, year CV Axel nut torque. The spec you cite, is not right, that is the troque of the engine at that speed!

Mar 04, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to remove a CV joint on 1996 Honda Accord


If you have a bad CV joint, it is usually easier and cheaper to replace the axle half-shaft.

loosen lug nuts
Jack up car
insert jack stand
remove wheel.
pry off wheel hub cover or tap it out by rotating brake disk and tapping outward with a punch (or even a screw driver).
This will expose a large axle nut which will usually have a crimp lock.
Look in the center for a part of the nut bent into a groove in the axle.
tap it out so the nut can turn with a punch and hammer.
The nut is on with a lot of torque. It can be removed by having a friend step on the brakes while you loosen it with a breaker bar and socket, or you can use an air-wrench to spin it off.
loosen thew nut until it extends past the end of the axle threads and tap it with a mallot. (this will result in the axle coming loose and moving freely back and forth in the hub)
remove the nut and the washer(s) taking notice of how they go back on.
Now you have to determine if the axle can be compressed enough to come out of the hub without disassembling any of the suspension. Some can - most can't.
Likely next step is to remove the safety cotter pin, and nut from the outer tie-rod end, then loosen it with a "pickle fork" and hammer or air-tool. (this will let the strut assembly swing out far enough to free the axle. On some cars the lower ball joint may have to be removed (this is usually a plate with three bolt/nuts. to get the axle shaft out of the hub.
At this point you have an axle half-shaft loose from the hub, but still firmly attached to the transmission near the inner CV joint.

Look carefully at the inner CV joint. Is there any sign of transmission oil/fluid around it? If so, plan on replacing the inner CV joint seal before you re-assemble. They are cheap, so it does not hurt to replace it anyway.

You have to get something behind the inner CV joint housing and pop the half shaft out of the transmission. There is a spring-clip around the inner half-shaft splines. When you pop the shaft out, it compresses the spring clip and lets it pop out of the retaining groove it rides in.
I usually try to get something like a piece of steel plumbing pipe against the back of the inner CV housing and them pop it good with a heavy hammer. One or two pops usually gets it to slide out, and then be prepared for a mess as transmission oil runs out the axle hole.

Now you have removed the axle half-shaft. You can go further and remove/replace the CV joints on the axle, but it is seldom worth it. A new half-shaft with both CV joints and new boots already installed is usually about the same price as one CV joint and new boots, and they are a real pain and will take a lot of time and patience to replace.

Reverse for installation.
Pop new shaft into transmission (you can usually do this by hand with a good push.
Re-insert into hub and leave loose.
re-attach any suspension parts, torque to proper setting, and re-install new cotter pins (never reuse the old ones).

Replace the washers over the axle
Install the axle nut.
**** Torque to specification - DO NOT GUESS. ***
Use punch to lock nut into axle groove (new axle should come with new axle nut)
Tap hub cover back on (a very thin coat of grease helps)
re-install wheel and loosely tighten lug nuts.
jack up car - remove jack stand and lower car.
Torque lug nuts (this is also important - improper lug nut torque can lead to a warped disk brake hub or worse)
Install hub cap if so equipped.

Done.


The axle half-shaft is held on one side by a large axle-nut and on the transmission side by a spring-clip that rides in a groove (it just pops in and out).

The whole job can be done in an hour or so if you have the proper tools, but do not attempt this if you don't have a big socket for the axle nut and a breaker bar. A torqu wrench capable of reading up to 200 ft lbs and one that can accurately set the torque on any suspension pieces you need to loosen.

If you don't need to loosen or remove any suspension you need not worry about alignment afterwards, and if you only need to loosen a tie rod end, you should still be fine as long as you don't change any of the "length adjusting" threads.

If you do need to separate a tie-rod end you will need the tool for that (pickle fork and heavy hammer).

If you have to remove or loosen any of the things that keep your wheels aligned you will need an alignment after you finish, but the job can usually be done while avoiding this.

Autozone will loan you most of the tools you need if you don't have them.

If you have never done this, I highly recommend you search You Tube for some videos and watch them first. This really is not hard.

Oct 19, 2014 | 1996 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Honda torque specifications


TIGHT... I normally go to 100-120ft/lbs Then take a Chisel where the Notch is in the Axle and hit the Lip of the NUT down and you will not have to worry about it.

Aug 03, 2014 | 2002 Honda Accord

1 Answer

I have a 99 mazda protege, 1.6l engine, automatic transmission. I am changing the CV joints out and I need the torque specification for the axle spindle nut that connects the cv joint to the wheel hub.


hi the torque settings for the hub nuts are 236-318 Nm these are the drive shaft nuts that fit on the end of the shaft on the wheel hub hope that's what you required please rate and vote thanks

Sep 20, 2010 | Mazda Protege Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

89 chev s10 how to replace front axles


prev.gif next.gif Halfshafts (Drive Axle) REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: A torn CV-boot requires removal of the driveshaft for overhaul 85387081.jpg
Fig. 2: On most vehicles. the caliper should be removed and supported out of the way 85387082.jpg
Fig. 3: Also on most vehicles, the tie rod end should be separated from the steering knuckle 85387083.jpg
Fig. 4: Once the lower shock fasteners are removed it may be compressed and wired up out of the way 85387084.jpg
Fig. 5: Loosen and remove the flange bolts 85387085.jpg
Fig. 6: Remove the cotter pin and retainer so the axle nut may be loosened 85387086.jpg
Fig. 7: A prybar may be used across to of the lug nuts in order to keep the hub from turning while loosening the nut 85387087.jpg
Fig. 8: Use a suitable axle shaft removal tool to drive the shaft from the hub 85387088.jpg
Fig. 9: If a driver tool is not available, thread the nut just flush with the shaft end and tab gently with a rubber or brass mallet 85387089.jpg
Fig. 10: During assembly, hold the hub from turning and torque the axle nut to specification 85387090.jpg
FRONT DRIVE AXLE Identification The front axle assembly used on most 4wd models covered by this manual utilizes a central disconnect type front axle/transfer case system which allows shifting in and out of 4wd when the vehicle is moving under most driving conditions. The axle has an aluminum carrier which includes a vacuum activated center lock feature. The axle on the MFI-Turbo is designed for full-time four wheel drive and therefore is not equipped with a disengagement feature. With this one exception, the MFI-Turbo and standard 4wd front axle assemblies are very similar. The drive axles employ completely flexible assemblies which consist of inner and outer constant velocity (CV) joints connected by an axle shaft. The inner CV joint is a "tri-pot'' design, which is completely flexible and can move in and out. The outer CV joint is a "Rzeppa'' design which is also flexible but cannot move in or out. NOTE: For more information on front axle identification, please refer to Section 1 of this manual. prev.gif next.gif

Jul 21, 2010 | 1988 Chevrolet S-10

1 Answer

How do you remove a front axle


Hello
Welcome!
  • The replacement of the CV axle is much easier with the vehicle lifted on a suspension lift. With the minivan in neutral and the steering wheel unlocked, removal of the front tire and then caliper assembly will be required. Remove the entire caliper assembly with pads intact to save a step. Be sure to support the caliper assembly to the coil spring so it does not incur damage to the rubber brake hose.

    The disconnection of the lower ball joint and outer tie rod end will also be required to allow free movement of the steering knuckle. For Caravans that employ speed sensors, remove the wire harness from the knuckle connection as well.

    Remove the cotter pin and castle-headed nut lock from the CV spindle. Next, remove the spring washer and the hub nut. This will require a large socket and breaker bar or a pneumatic gun. To separate the CV axle spindle from the steering knuckle, thread the hub nut back onto the spindle so it's exposing a few threads at the top. Tap on the nut with a large rubber mallet until the splines of the spindle separate from the adjoining knuckle.

    At this point, it's wise to place a drain bucket beneath the transaxle side of the CV joint connection to catch trickling transaxle fluid that will leak out once the connection of the axle to transmission is separated.

    Because the tie rod end and ball joint connections have been separated, you'll be able to manipulate the knuckle from the CV axle spindle. This requires determination and having an assistant would be helpful.

    Once the outer spindle connection of the CV axle is free from the knuckle, you'll need a large pry bar to disengage the inner tri-pot joint out of the transaxle and remove the CV axle from the transmission. This is where some fluid will leak into the drain bucket.
  • To install the new axle, start with the inner connection to the transaxle so that the inner joint circlip seats in the transaxle side gear. An audible click of the circlip should be heard and then test the connection by trying to pull out on the axle by hand. There will be a little free-play in the axle, but if the circlip is seated, you will not be able to disconnect the axle without the aide of the pry bar.

    Next, align the splines of the outer CV axle spindle to the grooves in the steering knuckle. Do not force this connection. Rotate the axle by hand until the splines align properly to the groove. Reconnect the remaining components by reversing the procedure.

    Be sure to torque the hub nut, outer tie rod end nut and ball joint retaining nut to the proper torque specifications of your specific year Caravan. Since the Caravan has been around for quite a while and has employed different engine sizes, there may be a slight variance in the torque specs. A quality repair manual for the specific year and design of your Caravan will display the correct torque specs.

    Last, replace the wheel and then check and adjust the level of the transaxle fluid. Although only a little may have trickled out by the disconnection, the fluid should be topped off to capacity.

  • Let me know if i can help more!

    Jul 17, 2010 | 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan

    2 Answers

    1995 Millenia S CV axle nut torque?


    174-231 ft lbs. I would stay closer to 174.

    Jan 27, 2010 | 1998 Mazda Millenia

    1 Answer

    Torque specs on replacing cv axle on 05 Pacifica


    ok here we go tie rod=55 ft lbs axel nut= 180 ft lbs strut bolts= 65 ft lbs plus 90 degrees

    Jan 07, 2010 | 2005 Chrysler Pacifica

    2 Answers

    1989 toyota corolla base 4-door manual tranny, drivers side drive shaft has play in transmission side, both the driveshaft and transaxle bearings look okay, what else is there? what keeps those shafts...


    There is a large lock nut that holds the axle into the splined end inside the transaxle. This nut is usually torqued into place very well though, but if it is loose or was not torqued properly then this could cause free-play in the axle. You can look up the torque specs online or use a chilton or Haynes manual to get the specification.

    Oct 16, 2009 | 1989 Toyota Corolla 2 Door

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