Question about Cars & Trucks
What make model an year vehicle are you working on ? The thing to do is use a volt meter an check voltage at key points , voltage into the switch, out of the switch , at the motor ,an so on ! You would do this so as not to replace parts that don't need to be replaced ! If you replaced the switch you can check voltage in the circuit ! go to www.bbbind.com they have free wiring diagrams . will show you what all the wires are going into the switch an at the motor !
Posted on Apr 10, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: i need to replace the
Well this is a long process but ive done quite a few of them. The first thing is to remove the airbag if your suv has one. Im pretty sure that in 1990 they didnt use them in this vehicle.The first step without an airbag is to remove the steering wheel. You will need to remove the horn cover to access the 21/22mm nut holding the steering wheel on. Be sure to not break the wire going to lthe horn switch inside the cover. push in and turn left on the plastic locker that holds the wire into the column and remove it. Then, after removing the nut holding the horn on, u must use a steering wheel puller to remove the steering wheel from the shaft.[normally auto zone will rent these pullers].read the directions of the puller to remove.then there will be what is called a clock spring assy if you have steering controls for the radio. If not the steering lock mechanism will be next. This requires a 90degree angled pick and another special tool to press the lock mechanism down off of the hog nose ring holding the steering lock ring in place.[possibly at auto zone again]. Once again read the direction of use for that special tool. Now you are almost there.Remove the hazard switch phillips head screw.Remove the phillips head screws holding the turn signal assembly onto the steering column[should be four]] and the two holding the lever onto the switch.Remove the drivers side lower dash panel to access the wiring block that has the rectangler conector end of the turn signal assembly attached to it. normally you can use a small screw driver to pry it out of the wiring block. To remove the old turn signal assembly just cut the wires from it at the top near the working part of the assembly .The next step is the hardest because you have to route the new turn signal wiring down through the steering column like the old one was.Tke some electrical tape and attach the new turn signal wiring to the old wiring and guide it down the column as your removing the old at the same time. Make sure to have the rectangler portion of the new wiring at the right angle when taping so theat it fits going through the steering column....Now just reverse this procedure to finish the install....Note that if you are not careful, the loose turn signal lever will allow the high/low beam switch mechanism to fall out of the actual high/low beam switch attached to the steering colmn.there are a couple more things like a flex type washer and the white horn mechanism to remove suring this removal process. Just keep all your parts in the order removed and all should be well....told ya it was long!!! If you have any questions, just e-mail me and i will help more if i can....Hope you have much luck with this job, Ken..email@example.com
Posted on Oct 08, 2010
you need to replace the electrical part of switch?If os it is down on column under dash will be two bolts holding on with the dimmer switch also
Posted on Aug 28, 2008
SOURCE: Automobile electrical problem
I hate to say it but GM "W" bodies of that time period ( Regal, Cutlass Supreme, Lumina, and Grand Prix) are notorious for turn signal problems. I'm a machanic and also have owned 3 W body vehicles. The pivot bushing in the switch wears prematurely and in turn causes the copper contacts to barely touch each other. If the contacts are dirty, there is resistance. Where there is resistance, there is heat, hence the smoke. It's just a poor design. What I do instead of replacing the switch requires some time and some surgical skill but it always works for me. At the pivot end of the switch, I remove the screw and remove the metal tube insert. I wrap the metal with electrical tape to take up the slack from the wear then grease the heck out of it. At the contact end I attach a piece of sheet metal to the bottom of the movable part of the switch so it sits underneath the non-moveable part making it so the moveable part can't lift up and lose contact. That's just a vague description but if you want a detailed one let me know and I'll write one. I did it to my '89 Regal 4 yrs. ago and to my wife's Grand Prix 1 yr. ago and they both still work great. Just a design flaw in the switch. Sometimes you have to pick up wher the car companies left off! beest921
Posted on Jul 22, 2008
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