Question about Cars & Trucks
POPPING BACK IN THE CARB IS AN INDICATION OF WIRES CROSSED. PUT THE TIMING MARK ON THE CRANK PULLEY ON ZERO AND REMOVE NUMBER ONE PLUG. FEEL THROUGH THE HOLE IF PISTON IS AT THE TOP. ARE THE ROCKER ARMS ON BOTH VALVES ON NUMBER ONE LOOSE AND UNENGAGED(NEUTRAL). THEN REMOVE THE CAP AND OBSERVE WHICH WIRE THE ROTOR BUTTON IS POINTING TO. IT SHOULD BE POINTING TO NUMBER ONE. THEN ADD THE WIRES IN FIRING ORDER AND TRY TO CRANK AGAIN
Posted on Apr 09, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Hard start problem
I had the same problem right after installing a 45 DCOE on a stock 12A. The problem was the carburetor was not properly tuned. To tune it, refer to "Weber Carburetors", by Pat Braden, from HP Books. The main thing I had to do was adjust the idle mixture screws. Seat them lightly (screw them all the way down, but not tightly), then turn both of them out 3 and a half turns. Pull the choke and turn the key WITHOUT pumping the gas pedal. You may also need to adjust the idle speed screw, I've found that about 900 or 1000 rpms is a good idle speed for my particular aplication, but when I first started it with the Weber, I had it at 1500 rpm. It took me about a week of driving it and adjusting it to different settings to get it to run well with a reasonable idle speed. Good luck!
Posted on Nov 01, 2008
spark is triggered by the crank sensor and the cam sensor inside the distributor. but the actual signal to the coil comes from the computer. If I remember correctly the hot side of the coil runs to the back of the alternator. I am sending along a complete wiring diagram for your vehicle but I suggest you get a haynes or chiltons manual for test procedures. Don't follow their wiring diagrams or you will get side tracked to death trying to figure them out (inaccurate is a mild word)
Since I can't do the testing from here, I;m trying to give you the best possible means and chance to figure this out. Any questions just ask!!
Posted on Mar 13, 2010
if i understand u correctly u replaced the distributor and cap if so i would start with making sure my pick up coil was installed correctlyand or replace it.i also would look at the possibility of it being a powertrain control module or neutral safety switch if this vehicle is equipt with one. hope ive been helpful
Posted on May 15, 2011
SOURCE: we can not figure out
You need to get an exact firing order diaghram for your make,model and engine,
call any autoparts store, and they will give you the firing order for your truck, if one
or more wires are wrong, can cause the engine to backfire or run bad. also make
sure you have the correct gap on your sparkplugs. check and set the timing,
if needed, the auto parts will also have the timing marks position. good luck!
Posted on Jul 10, 2011
For the sake of completeness, here's the full no-start Troubleshooting Guide for the 2001 6 cylinder 3.5L MFI Mitsu Diamante, but the problem with your car is line item #6 - the ECC (Engine Control Computer) is shorted/dead. Without an ECC, the Diamante will (a) get no spark, since the ignition timing comes from the computer, and (b) get no fuel, since the fuel injectors are operated by the computer as well. The engine will turn over, since running the starter motor is a non-computer controlled matter of a correctly functioning ignition switch, a charged battery, and good wiring to a functional starter motor/solenoid, but will never start.
The clue pointing directly to the ECC failure is the blowing ECC fuses. These fuses are blowing to tell you that the ECC is shorted dead.
Since the ECC is expensive, exhaustively check out all other possible sources of the problems, but with so few problems causing loww of both spark and fuel, combined with the blown ECC fuses pointing directly to the ECC, it seems that the ECC is the only culprit.
Here's a used 2001 Mitsu Diamante ECC at Ebay for $175.
Priority Action Part Type Cause
1 Inspect Choke - Stuck or Improperly Functioning Choke.
2 Inspect Fuel Filter - Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter.
3 Inspect Fuel Pump Relay - Faulty Fuel Pump Relay.
4 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator - Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator.
5 Inspect Fuel Pump - Low Fuel Pressure.
6 Inspect Engine Control Computer - Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC.
7 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer - Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainer.
8 Inspect Ignition Switch - Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch.
9 Inspect Battery - Battery Discharged or Faulty.
10 Inspect Battery Cable - Coroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable.
11 Inspect Solenoid - Starter Solenoid Faulty.
12 Inspect Starter - Starter Motor Faulty.
13 Inspect Wireset - Worn or Damaged Spark Plug Wires.
14 Inspect Ignition Coil - Faulty Ignition Coil.
15 Inspect Distributor Cap - Loose, Cracked or Worn Distributor Cap.
16 Inspect Spark Plugs - Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s).
17 Inspect Distributor Rotor - Loose, Cracked or Worn Distributor Rotor.
18 Inspect Fuel Tank - Fuel Tank Empty.
19 Inspect Carburetor - Worn, Faulty or Damaged Carburetor.
The fuel pump strainer is a sock-like strainer in the fuel tank on the input side of the fuel pump designed to protect the fuel pump by straining out any debris in the tank (similar to the way that the fuel filter protects the engine/fuel injectors/fuel pressure regulator).
Posted on Nov 27, 2011
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