Question about Honda Cars & Trucks
It's not the distributor and there isn't a crank nor cam shaft sensors.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
befor in the ealier models of accords they use to be both the cam and crank sensors in the distibutor but they separated them !!!So no they are not together on your car tha cam sensor is in the distributor and the crank sensor is in front of engine or in the lower timing belt cover if it is in the timing cover you can see a wire going dow the timing cover way to the bottom on the rear side off it
hope it will help you if you have any question just wright back !!!!
Posted on Dec 13, 2008
After you crank it for a while, take out one of the spark plugs. If it is dry then you have a fuel issue. If it is wet and smells like gas you have a spark issue. Find that out and report back and then we can get more specific.
Posted on Dec 19, 2009
The ignition timing is not adjusted with a timing light or with the engine running, and to set the ignition timing follow these procedures.
There is a mark or notch on the distributor housing that the rotor should be pointing to when the engine is on TDC. (Top Dead Center) This "Static" timing is all that matters and the computer will be able to control the timing as long as the ignition rotor is in that position when the engine is at TDC.
1. Place the engine at top dead center.
2. Look under the distributor cap and find where the number one terminal runs under the distributor cap, and where that position on the distributor cap corresponds with the distributor housing, and it should match up to a mark or a notch on the distributor housing (usually has a #6 for 6 cylinder engines or a #8 for 8 cylinder engines) indicating the number one TDC alignment position.
3. With the engine on top dead center the ignition rotor should be pointing to the number one TDC alignment mark or notch that is on the distributor housing, if it is not then loosen up the distributor and turn the distributor until the ignition rotor is pointing to and aligned with the TDC alignment mark or notch on the distributor housing and then tighten down the distributor, the engine should now be "Static" timed. (The more precise that you are aligning the TDC alignment mark with the ignition rotor the better the engine will run, and it will be less likely that there will be a camshaft to crankshaft correlation problem)
If the distributor can not be turned enough to align the ignition rotor with the number one TDC alignment mark on the distributor housing, or the distributor does not set properly and will not allow the installation of the spark plug wires then the distributor is not installed correctly and is most likely a tooth off and it will need to be re-installed correctly. (The distributor should set like it is shown in the firing order diagram when it is properly installed)
Here is a firing order diagram to also help assist you.
Posted on Oct 25, 2010
The first thought that comes to mind is a high pressure oil leak. The
injectors have a snap ring on top that sometimes becomes detached and
it will create these symptoms.
When you depress the brake it sends a signal to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and the PCM increases the idle because it predicts you are about to shift into gear. If the truck has a high pressure leak inside the engine it will have a hard time building pressure initially and once the oil warms and thins out the High Pressure Oil Pump cannot hold the pressure and the oil leaks faster because it is thinner.
You may have a leak around the pump area which is under the turbo also. The IPR which is the regulator that controls the oil pressure may also be bad. It is directly under the turbo as well. The IPR is located under the turbo on the High Pressure Oil Pump cover. You stated the seals were leaking on the IPR itself? If the orings are damaged or if the screen in the end of it is collapsed or even punched through with a small hole it will need replaced. Screen damage is usually a sign of debris entering it from either dirt from a previous repair or something is coming apart inside.
Make certain you have clean oil and fuel filters. Yor may want to check fuel pressure as well. It should be somewhere around 55psi on acceleration.
Additionally, I suggest check for voltage at the connector on the fuel pump. The pump is mounted in the filter housing on the frame and the connector is at the front of it. The pink and black wire should have 12 volts with the key on for about 30 seconds. If the pump has voltage but is not running, then your pump has failed. If there is no voltage then check fuse 2.40 in the central junction box. This is the fuse that feeds the inertia switch through the fuel pump relay. I have included a fuse box layout and a wiring diagram (click over images for zoom)...
Additionally, will need to scanned the PCM to know if some fault code is stored there.
Keep us updated.
Posted on Oct 08, 2011
Hi David, Remove the sensor and hook up an analogue voltmeter to the two cables. Set the meter at mili voltage and pass a metal screw driver across the business end of the sensor, without coming into contact with it. You should have a distance of about 0.5 of a millimeter gap between the sensor and the screw driver. The voltage generated is very small and the pulse will only occur as the field is broken. In other words its a two man job. If the needle of the meter moves the sensor is fine, if not replace it. It is very important to use an analogue meter as the pulse is too small to be noticed on most digital meters. Regards John
Posted on Oct 17, 2012
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