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Do you know where I can find torque spec charts for this vehicle on line?

Trying to put the R6 back together from the bearing near piston going out.

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Go google , type in engine torque specifications for ( you vehicle --not mentioned) and open up relevant pages

Posted on Apr 08, 2015

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4610 ford diesel tractor water pump bolt torque settings


First you need to know the diameter of the bolts and the type of thread ie 3/8 N/C or 5/16 N/F then look at the type of bolt ie plain steel or high tensile SAE grade 3, 4, or 6, once you know this go to a general purpose bolt torque chart, and derive the torque spec info.
If the water pump is cast iron use the full torque specification.
If the water pump is alloy then reduce the torque spec 10%

Below is an example of a general purpose bolt / nut torque chart

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If the engine block is cast iron use the full torque specification.
If the engine block is alloy then reduce the torque spec 10%

Below is an example of a general purpose bolt / nut torque chart

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REALLY perhaps the manufacturer knows .

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What the torque specs. For a 2002chevys10 4.3vortex mains and rod bearing


Torque Specs Database

Type: Dim: Length: Head: Nut Grade: 20 Ft-Lbs 240 In-Lbs 27.12 N-m Connects: Connecting Rod To Engine Block Years: All Vote Record: Vote Note: Vortec - Rod Cap Nuts - 2 Steps: 20 FtLbs; +70degs

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ZZdaryl/2009-06-14_153454_torque.pdf

Main Bearing Cap Bolt 4.3L Step 1 15 ft lbs (20) Step 2 Additional 73 Degrees

i don't know if that's correct for main bearing caps since another link states it's much higher

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the rod bearing torques are the same on all the other links

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no vehicle type,so I will be general.start by taking pictures of engine,this way you can put it back together,right.then mark all the hoses and electrical lines with pieces of tape so you can match them back up were they go,mark both sides of the lines at the disconnection points, take notes too..then start at the top and work your way down removing everything that is in your way.if you have any doubts take more pics so u can reference them on the reinstall.get new gaskets were needed,do not use old gaskets or you will create problems you don't want. u should have several bolts on both sides of the manifold make sure you torque to the right specs on reinstall,you find the specs on line just type in exactly what you want <torque specs,list make and model,and year,for manifold>.hope this helped

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Most people don't bother using a torque wrench to tighten a thermostat housing.

It is more important to be careful and tighten each bolt a little at a time. You do not want to warp, crack, miss align the part you are bolting.

It does not take a lot of torque to seal a thermostat housing. I would guess somewhere between 15 and 20 ft lbs.

It is often hard to find such torque specs for specific vehicles.

For bolts that you cannot find a specified torque spec, you can refer to a standard bolt torque chart. The charts are based on the diameter of the bolt threads not the wrench size used to fit the bolt head. The charts also depend on the hardness of the bolt material. Also keep in mind the material you are bolting into.

Here is one such chart...
http://www.dansmc.com/torque_chart.htm

Keep in mind that thermostat housing bolts are just sealing a gasket. They are not holding the entire car together.

After turning wrenches for many years, most mechanics just know by feel.

There are cases where a torque wrench is mandatory. Like head bolts, wheel bearing/hub nuts, rod caps, main bearing, etc.

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Torque specs needed


on a 1999 Honda Accord, the torque for the front axle nut is 181 ft lbs. For the most part, sung it up and then go a bit further. If you are reusing the old axle nut, tighten it until the stake mark on the nut lines up with the notch in the axle (make sure to re-stake it). check out alldata.com/diy for individual vehicle subscriptions which have all the repair info you will ever need. If you had the steering knuckle out, tighten the balljoint nuts on the upper and lower control arms until they are tight and then tighten until the hole lines up to recieve the cotter pin.

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