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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
No use what's in there, but have the engine de-carboned by a Ford dealer, or remove the octane adjust shorting bar located near the ignition module (retards timing 2 degrees), this will in most cases cure the issue unless there is allot of carbon in the cylinders. There are also methods of ing this de-carbon procedure at home, check on the internet for tips.
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Posted on Oct 22, 2008
SOURCE: no acceleration
I had the same problem with one exception. It would rev higher than 3500 but the higher it revved the more it bogged. I had the catalytic converter replaced. I thought I bought a new car. Acceleration is just like new. It was easy enough to test. My mechanic cut a hole in the exhaust pipe in front of the catalytic converter. It sounded like a truck but the acceleration difference was immediate. Easy diagnosis.
The car is hard to shift because the more you press on the accelerator the more the computer for the transmission won't let it shift. Which in turn causes the car to bog more sending more unburned fuel into the catalytic converter. Which in turn causes more carbon build up and more back pressure. Vicious cycle. It will only get worse.
My thermostat caused the entire problem. Thermostat was stuck open, engine never got to operating temp most days. Car burned rich. Bad gas mileage. A lot of unspent fuel being dumped into the converter. Probably have some underlying cause that needs to be addressed. Bad plugs, wires, coil, fuel filter.
Posted on Jan 21, 2009
try fuel injectors....run a bottle or two with full tank through it and see if that dont solve the problemo.....
Posted on Feb 01, 2009
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1) If the gas pedal is hard to compress you could have a broken spring inside the throttle housing. The throttle housing is located in the sealed compartment of the cruise control housing.(The housing with the rubber bladder.) You will have to remove the rubber covering to inspect the inner workings of the throttle mechanism. If every thing looks intact push on the accelerator. If it is still hard to push in, you could have a rusty cable.
2) A simple can of WD-40 should be applied lightly to the inner workings of the housing parts.
Try the throttle again and if it is still hard to push, check the connections of the cables to the throttle apparatus. Use the long plastic tube on the spray nozzle of your WD-40 can to shoot lubricant in to the small openings of the cable sleeve.
3) It may take a few minutes of manipulating the throttle to loosen up the corroded cable connections. Once the cable slides and the throttle seems to move freely take a dab of Vaseline and coat the ends of the cable connections. Vaseline will keep the moving parts lubricated and protect the connections from becoming more corroded.
4) By lubricating all moving linkages, you can prevent further throttle sticking. Make sure you replace all coverings back to the way they were when you started. Sit in the drivers seat and push the throttle pedal a few times to ensure that the throttle is no longer sticking.
5) Take your car out for a short spin in a unpopulated area such as a empty parking lot. Start and stop the vehicle numerous times to check it out. If the gas sticks at a slow operating speed, you can simply put the car in to neutral, apply the brakes and switch the ignition off. It is always better to be safe ..
However for an easy solution check cable to throttle body, it may be kinked. This is a common problem. Remove the throttle body and clean the throttle plate with a throttle body cleaner. Clean the front and back of the plate. Just spray and wipe off with a rag. Do not scrub with a wire brush. Doing this can damage the throttle plate. You can buy throttle body cleaner at most parts stores. Make sure you clean up your IAC valve while its off, that thing gets gunked up bad after a while.
Please check the link to remove throttle body in your car:-
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