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I have a 2003 maxima I need to know if the brakes are 1way sensor pads or 2 way sensor pads

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  • 68 Answers

Whats sensor are you talking about? Pads or brake sensor? Be specific

Posted on Apr 08, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: front brake pads

Just did this tonight... 7/21/08

You need a torx head T-55 Star Socket to remove the caliper bolt(s) and a large 3/4 in preferably with a 1/2 dr and large breaker bar or torque wrench with a 1/2 in dr. to remove the knuckle bolts. I should've taken pictures, but I did not. After studying this exact issue for an hour or so, I finally got everything to click. Steps as I proceeded. Loosen the top caliper nut using the T-55 torx bit, this will take some doing, if possible, use a breaker bar or something comparable, I used a standard 3/8 in. socket wrench and about a foot long hollow metal tube on the end as the breaker and after some muscle work (ouch!!) got it loose. Now there are 2 bolts that hold the caliper in place that need to come out. I used a 3/4 in socket on a 1/2 breaker bar to get these to break. I don't have the exact torque specs to put these back on, but I went about 40lbs on the knuckle bolts and closer to 80lbs on the caliper torx head screw. Once you have the caliper torx head bolt loose and the other 2 nuts off, you can rotate the caliper. Using a C-Clamp, compress the caliper so that it is completely compressed. Now, remove the torx head bolt and the pad assembly will swing out, at this point, you can remove the old pads and clips if you are replacing them as well. Reverse the order for installation using Lock-tite and the caliper grease you get from the parts store. I hope I don't have to mention removing the tires, using jack stands and being completely safe under there. Good Luck. The first side took me about 3 hours considering time and studying, the second side took about half an hour after already knowing what to do.. It gets easier each time you do it.

So far, I have replaced 2 fuel pumps (at home) first one took about 7 hours, second time around, only took about 2 hours. Front and Rear brake jobs. numerous small items, now I'm looking at a blinker switch (problem with left turn signal... rapid click, no light).. Also, the dash panel either needs repaired or replaced as the fuel gage is constantly up and down. If you or someone else has a suggestion here, I would appreciate it.

Thanks and remember... Practice Safe "Do it yourself"..!

Posted on Jul 22, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Brake Pad Sensor

On my bmw 325i front pads changed,indicator on dash still on,help!!

Posted on Dec 19, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Brake Pad Sensor

i have replaced both front/ rear pads, and no matter what the dash light will not go off. I have disconnected both front/rear sensors, and light is still on , any suggestions?

Posted on Apr 04, 2009

  • 75817 Answers

SOURCE: I need to know the location of sensor 2 bank 2 on

this sensor would be in the right bank as you face the ngine from under the hood, it is the sensor before the catalytic converter in the exhaust pipe, u will need a 7/8" wrench or special O2 sensor socket to replace it, the tool type depends on how hard it is to remove, spray the threads with WD 40 before trying to remove. go to the link to see the oreintation of your engines cylinder banks, bank 2 has cylinder numbers 2, 4 ,6 in it.

Posted on Aug 16, 2009

  • 5081 Answers

SOURCE: how to change brake pads

This is actually a simple job if you have the right information. Definitely be prepared by spraying the caliper bolts and the rotor mounting bolts with some sort of penetrating oil.
Second. Loosen the mounting bolts (17mm), which may require a breaker bar. Loosen also the caliper two caliper bolts (15mm). After all 4 bolts are loosened, take them out.

Third. Now that the bolts have been taken out, the caliper may be seized to the rotor. Some light "banging" with a hammer is okay, as long as you aren't bending anything. Once the caliper is loose, it is safest to hang it with a zip tie or piece of rope, as it will still be connected to the brake line and you don't want it to break.

Fourth. Take hammer and and bang off the rotor. You really won't hurt anything by doing so. I used a small, hand held sledge and hit it while laying on my back from behind

Fifth- make sure that you remove the caliper pins, clean them with brake cleaner, and re-grease them before putting the pads back in

***Pay attention to the way that the brake pads come out, making sure to put the new ones in the same way

Sixth- Compressing the hydraulic cylinder on the caliper can be a tough, but I finally figured it out. YOU DO NOT NEED A SPECIAL TOOL TO DO THIS. I took a large C-clamp and put some pressure on the cylinder. Then, using vice grips, I lightly clamped onto the indentations in the cylinder (you will know what I mean when you see it). Make sure that you don't clamp down on the rubber gasket when you clamp down.

Turn clockwise and tighten the C-clamp as you turn. You do not have to do them simultaneously, but it is a bit quicker if you do. It might take a few minutes, it is doable- take your time.

Once you get the cylinder compressed, you are good to go. Put the new rotor on, set the new pads in their slots, and put the caliper back onto the rotor. You can do this.

Posted on Nov 13, 2009

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