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My 065 made small pop while full bore.still have full compression and fire.what's up?

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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Explain what a 065 is as there may be several different explanations available

Posted on Apr 07, 2015

  • mark Hogate Apr 07, 2015

    065 stihl chainsaw

  • Bill Boyd Apr 08, 2015

    the pop may be a back fire or an ignition in the sump of the engine at high rpms. It could be from an ignition source such as a hot piston , hot bearing. It could be from incorrect oil/fuel mixture . For starters I would check that the fuel being used is not e mix fuel as small motors do not like that fuel. next ,have the carby serviced and change the air filter. If the engine doesn't start after 2 pulls then it indicates a problem developing and the pop is the tell tale sign a major problems in the future

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1996 chevy tahoe 5.7 engine firing order


Engine Mechanical Specifications (5.7 L)
Application
Specification
Metric
English
General Data
Engine Type
V8
Displacement
5.7 L
350 CID
RPO (VIN Code)
L31 (R)
Bore
101.63 mm
4.0012 in
Stroke
88.39 mm
3.480 in
Compression Ratio
9.4:1
Firing Order
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

May 04, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Have a spark plug not firing.


Are you sure it's actually a plug?
Are you getting oil on the plug?
The plug may be firing but you may be losing compression which gives the symptoms of a misfire. As you've changed the plug, lead and coil this points to to a problem elsewhere.

Your first course of action should be to get a mobile mechanic carry out a diagnostic check for you.

To put your mind at rest, do a 2nd compression test using a light oil squirted into the bores:

Doing a Compression Test
Warm the engine. Remove all the spark plugs.
Get a pencil and piece of paper to note down the readings.
Put the compression tester into the No1 cylinder and crank the engine for 10 seconds.
Note down the compression reading.
Repeat process for all cylinders.

Here's an illustration of what you may expect on a 4 cylinder engine:
Cylinder 1 2 3 4
psi 125 122 120 124

125 is the uppermost figure for that engine. Here, this engine is fine. There's a slight variation in psi figures, but that's perfectly normal.

Here's the same engine:
Cylinder 1 2 3 4
psi 110 112 114 112

The psi reading is down. However, as all the figures are pretty much equal it doesn't indicate head /gasket problems. It may point towards worn pistons or burnt valves.

Now consider these psi readings:
Cylinder 1 2 3 4
psi 125 84 86 124

There's more than a 10% drop - a difference - between cylinder 1 and 2, and cylinders 3 and 4.
The compression readings for cylinders 2 and 3 is down; low. There's something clearly wrong.

It suggests that there is a defective head gasket between cylinders 2 and 3 or a crack in the cylinder head. The rising piston compresses the gases which escape into the adjoining cylinder via the defective gasket or cracked head.

However, it could also mean that there is a problem with the valves (burnt/not seating properly) or perhaps piston / ring problems.

A burnt valve - it's usually the exhaust valve as they bear the brunt of the combustion - can cause a reduction in engine power simply because the combustion process isn't occurring properly. Compressed air/fuel gets squeezed out of that cylinder because of the damaged valve . There even may be a misfire - a surge as the car runs.

Worn or broken piston rings allow compressed gases to leak past into the crankcase. A compressed crankcase can force oil out of the dipstick tube. The pressure in the crankcase will leak to atmosphere anywhere it can find an outlet.

The 2nd Compression Test
The second compression test is known as a 'wet test'. The first compression test was the dry test because no oil was added to the bores. The second 'wet' test can give an indication of whether it is the rings or valves at fault (though bear in mind rings and valves do not cause overheating or water in the coolant symptoms).

Spray a liberal amount of light penetrating oil into each cylinder - aim for the cylinder walls, not the centre of the piston. You want the oil to run down the cylinder wall and around the piston to form a seal.

Place a rag over each spark plug hole and spin the engine to eject the surplus oil.

Then carry out a full compression test noting down the results.

Here's the previous results with the 2nd compression readings added:
Cylinder 1 2 3 4
psi 125 84 86 124
Wet 128 112 110 126

The readings have increased. This because the oil sprayed into the bores has formed a temporary seal around the piston, thereby enabling the compression to be raised. It also indicates that the bores/rings are worn on cylinder 2 and 3 - the 'oil seal' has increased the readings but is still low in comparison with cylinders 1 and 2.

This could also indicate that in addition to worn rings there is also burnt valves. Oil cannot form a seal around a valve. A worn or split valve will cause a low compression reading and misfiring symptoms.
Compressions readings should be taken in conjunction with other symptoms. It will help you identify the problem:

Low compression readings between two adjoining cylinders point towards a head gasket/head fault if your vehicle has shown signs of coolant loss, coolant in the oil system - mayonnaise, overheating, rough running and lack of power.

If those symptoms are not present it points towards burnt valves/piston rings. A worn engine may be difficult to start and pressurise the crankcase, but it doesn't cause overheating problems.

Feb 09, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

On a ram 1500 if I turned the pulley number of time and sstopped the groove at TDC but not in cylinder 1 position will the truck run bad or the timing offset?


the timing mark indicates where the no 1 piston is in the bore. It can be at tdc compression stroke (firing) or at tdc exhaust. If it is on compression stroke ( test by removing no 1 plug and feeling the pressure under your thumb) then the rotor button will be pointing to no 1 HT lead in the distributor cap. If it is on exhaust stroke the rotor button will be 180 degrees from no 1 ht lead . It it is point to no 1 HT lead on compression stroke the truck will start ___IF YOU HAVE THE CORRECT FIRING ORDER FOR THE ht LEADS ) and if it is 180 degrees out it will not start. If it starts and runs but backfires then you will have the firing order wrong on 2 leads

Jan 16, 2015 | Dodge Ram Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Im looking for a spark plug wirng diagram for a 1966 corette 427


1966 - 1969 with 4 Barrel Carb (L36)
(Low Compression Model)
Max Brake Horsepower - 390 @ 5200 rpm
Max Torque - 470 @ 3600 rpm
Stroke - 3.76
Bore - 4.251
Compression - 10.25
Firing Order - 18436572

1966 with 4 Barrel Carb (L72)
(High Compression Model)
Max Brake Horsepower - 425 @ 5600 rpm
Max Torque - 460 @ 4000 rpm
Stroke - 3.76
Bore - 4.251
Compression - 11.0
Firing Order - 18436572


zjlimited_1418.jpg

283, 327, 396, 409 and 427 CID Engine 1965-1966
Firing Order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2


zjlimited_1417.jpg

350 CID Engine 1969-1974 Corvette, 427 CID Engine 1969 Corvette
Firing Order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2


Hope this helps (remember to rate this answer)

Jun 15, 2011 | Chevrolet Corvette Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What is inside a hydraulic lifter for dodge caravan 3.3L and how to inspect it?


there is a spring,small piston and a couple seals.the center should compress and pop back up. if you do this in a small bowl full of clean oil you will see fluid come out of the small hole in the side

Mar 07, 2011 | Dodge Caravan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Car firing but will not start plugs sooty


You could try the Clear Flood procedure....Throttle wide open and crank engine . This sometimes works, but.....

These engines suffer from fuel wash down. The gasoline washes away the oil in the cylinders.....and compression goes away, not making the fuel fire off.

The film of oil in the cylinders and rings seals the piston to the bore making for good compression.

Remove the spark plugs....crank over the motor to eject raw fuel...dribble a couple of spoonfuls of motor oil down each plug hole and crank briefly.

Install plugs and try restart.

Jan 14, 2011 | 1993 Jaguar XJ6

1 Answer

How do you reset caliper piston on the rear of a Pontiac G6 2006 car?


YOU NEED LARGE C - CLAMP TO COMPRESS PISTON IN CALIPER BORE.REMOVE SMALL AMOUNT BRAKE FLUID FROM BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR FIRST BEFORE YOU COMPRESS PISTON. AFTER REMOVING A LITTLE BRAKE FLUID.AND COMPRESSING CALIPER PISTON IN BORE.PLACE MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR COVER BACK ON.WHEN FINISHING REPLACING BRAKES.PUMP BRAKE PEDAL UNTIL BRAKES FEEL SOLID AND FIRM CHECK BRAKE FLUID LEVEL.DONT DRIVE VECHICLE IF BRAKES DONT FEEL FIRM OR SOLID.

Oct 10, 2010 | 2006 Pontiac G6

1 Answer

The air drain is clogged and is pilling up in the passenger side floor bored were is the drain out at


the tube is run through the fire wall and it runs into the center of the frame try drilling a small 1/4" hole through the front side inside cab to clean it out. compressed air is good but maybe with wire.

Aug 26, 2010 | 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Hi,I have a '99 Jag. S type.I removed the battery to replace it with a new one.Now engine turns over but will not fire.Had no problems previous to this.Has been suggesed a fuse,but all look good. Please...


Sounds like you need to remove plugs and squirt a drop of oil down the bores, has car been standing for a while or have you started it then turned off quickley.
these flood if so and washes oil away from pistons then no compression
oil in bore normally works.

Mar 02, 2010 | Jaguar S-Type Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

'99 Windstar. Overheated and threw belt off.


overheating can damaged cylinder head gasket resulting to low or no engine compression.coolant may enter inside the bore.check compression in all cylinders and traces of coolant on sparkplugs.compression of 100psi is still acceptable.

Jan 12, 2010 | 1999 Ford Windstar

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