Question about 2010 Ford F-150
Yours is electronically controlled(no vacuum lines). First I would check the resistance of the wires between the controller in the dash and the resistor. Under 5 OHM's is good, should be close to .5 OHM's though. The n plug the controller back in and check voltage on the high speeds. Should be in between 5 and 8 volts. Maybe higher, I don't have the specifics for your truck. If they are low. It is the controller that is bad.
Posted on Apr 06, 2015
Blend doors not working properly due to vacuum leaks or bad actuators? Fan motor running too slow due to bad resistor or motor?
Posted on Apr 06, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
guys have you checked for a vaccum leak????? there is a little plastic ball with a vaccum line going to it that controls the outside air coming in. check for a leak in this line
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
You have a vacuum leak. Defrost is the default postion(no Vacuum). Start by finding the small black vacuum line near the heater hoses at the fire wall under the hood.Trace it back, it should go to a square black reservoir . Not totally sure exactly where it is located on this model,shop manual doesn't show a very good pic, but it states to remove wiper arm and pivot shaft to remove it. You will see a second line going from here to intake manifold vacuum port. Make sure you don't have a leak there somewhere.
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
there are few things you need to check out:
1. if the compressor is overcharged it will shut down and you won't get any cool air
2. the thermostat for your cooling system is bad
3. the link to adjust the temperature is too short (did you feel the switch loose when changing temperature from hot to cold)?
hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 06, 2010
SOURCE: I have a 2010 ford
The performance of the heater indicates low coolant level. Pretty strange about the multiple water pumps, but if is is under warranty, you need to keep going back to the dealer. They must be missing something...
Posted on Dec 16, 2010
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