Question about Cars & Trucks
Posted by Anonymous on
I would do a compression test of the engine. Spend about $40 for the gauge tester and do it yourself. Engine should be at operating temperature, remove all spark plugs, disable ignition by grounding the high tension cable from coil to distributor, screw in the gauge to one cylinder, hold the gas pedal to the floor-or hold the throttle at wide open, then crank engine for about 5 seconds. You will have a compression reading that should be somewhere between 100 psi and 200 psi. Anything below 100psi means not enough compression in the cylinder to produce power when running. Do each cylinder the same-crank the same amount of time for each cylinder( with wide open throttle). All compression readings should be fairly close-lowest reading must be within 75% of highest reading cylinder for a good, healthy engine.
If compression is low in any cylinder, it probably won't even fire the air/fuel mixture. Look for valve problems, valves not sealing (burnt valves cause this), or piston rings worn too bad, head gasket failure can cause low compression. Example, compression tested a Nissan, and readings were all 155-160 psi in all cylinders, so compression was excellent, engine was internally good. If you have good compression in each cylinder, look elsewhere like a plugged catalytic converter-won't let the engine breathe, or a problem with the ignition system-test for a snapping, blue spark when cranking the engine, on one of the spark plug wires. Others: check EGR valve for being stuck open, good luck, then.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
try giving your car a simple service, change oil, oil filter, air filter, plugs and leads etc. also get your wheels aligned and balanced as having bad geo can also be bad for fuel consumption. if that doesnt work then id recomend a garage.
Posted on Dec 18, 2008
SOURCE: 89 Wagoneer drives rough
The thing to do now is a fuel pressure test pump could be weak just a few pounds under the recamended pressure will do that weather its mechanical or electrical . Is there a filter in the carb. wear fuel fine hooks? If none of this is an issue at least you can eliminate fuel deliverly as the problem.
Posted on Apr 19, 2009
I was factory trained to work on these cars, the problems i found for this symptom where this, a cracked air intake rubber flex hose, crack is on bottom and opens up when u accelerate, next is a defective MAF, which is a Mass Airflow sensor, neither of these two problems will set a code.
Posted on Nov 03, 2009
What grade of fuel are you using? There are many conditions that effect gas mileage. The way a vehicle is driven, is it shifting correctly, flooring it to get up to speed from dead stop also known as Jack Rabbit starts, driving with the defroster on when it isn't needed or the setting just above that can be used. Back in the 90's most car manufacturers made a change to their heating.cooling system that caused the AC compressor to kick in when the selector was set to defrost. This puts drag on teh motor and decreases gas mileage. Build up on valves and low compression in the firing cylinders will cause you to lose gas mileage as well. Do a compression check on the motor to make sure you don't have abnormally high compression or low compression on cylinders and use a bottle of gas treatment in your fuel to clean some of the carbon build up from injectors and valves. Also start using the Mid grade fuel. Not the High Octane in your area. In Texas we typically have 3 choices 87, 89 and 93 to choose from. Low grade is enough to run the vehicle but performance is low as well as mileage. I use the 89 octane for better performance and better mileage. The High Octane or 93 isn't really good as it leads to higher carbon build up on the valves. Also check your oil often and make sure your changing it every 4000 miles at the longest. All of this along with making sure you change the Air Filter every 5000 miles will increase your mileage.
Posted on Jan 25, 2011
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