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Have A 2000 540i 6 speed. car will not crank or start. Replaced battery, starter, ignition switch, and clutch relay switch behind clutch pedal. Been told it could be a ground or an ECU problem.

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2200-2500 rpm if you have overdrive.2500 plus if not.I have a 1989 Honda prelude with a B20A (Similar to the origonal B20A5 engine) with a 5 Speed manual and in overdrive (5th) my rpm's are exactly 1,000 per 20mph. So basically if your going 20 in 5th, ur rpm's will be at 1,000, and so on. 40mph - 2...
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you have to use a big flat head screwdriver or something similar that will fit in one of the slots(it looks like a Philips head) and turn it to the right to get it to go in then just put the pads on and give the brake pedal a few pushes and you good to go YES DO JUST THAT!! The Rear Caliper...
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if its h22a engine intake are 0.15-0.19mm (0.006-0.007in) ,exhaust 0.17-0.21(0.007-0.008) Answer At the factory we set the tappet clearance to 200 microns plus or minus 20 microns. This applies to all L4 and V6 engines. The Prelude is built in Japan, but I would assume that the settings are the...
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Won't start


So it's a no crank condition? Do dash lights, gauges, and everything else work when the car won't crank over? If so, buy a cheap $5.00 testlight, and when the car won't crank, pull the small black wire off the starter solenoid. While someone holds the key in start (cranking) position and clutch pedal depressed, see if the black wire has power as it should. (Ground the testlight and just touch the wire's end terminal. If powered, the testlight will light up.) If power there, then the starter solenoid is failing. Toyota starters are very good units, but the solenoid's internal contacts get old and pitted.
If no power at the black wire, then the start circuit from ignition switch to clutch safety switch (on the clutch pedal) to starter relay to starter solenoid will have to be diagnosed. To double-check: take a single battery jumper cable and put it on the positive battery post connection. Put the other end of the jumper cable on the solenoid terminal where black wire was removed. Key can be off. Make sure car is in neutral, brake set. If starter now operates, solenoid is O.K., and it is a problem in the start circuit, -ignition switch, neutral start switch, or in the wiring.
Now find a grounding place for testlight under the dash. When car won't crank, check for power coming out of ignition switch on the black wire with white stripe. This is the start wire for the starter solenoid. Key must be in crank position. Wire shoud be powered-ignition switch is working. If no power, switch is failing. You can do the same for the clutch start switch-it's a simple switch, that when clutch is depressed switch is closed and passes power on from ignition switch to the starter relay (thus allowing power to the starter solenoid). Black wire, red stripe-this is wire from clutch switch to starter relay. When key is in crank, clutch depressed, this wire should be hot.
With me so far? Still haven't found a problem, or any loose connections? Next and last is the starter relay. It is located under dash, close to gas pedal, but under the center console, just forward and left of gear shifter. It can be tested and the wiring diagnosed there, but relays are cheap, so just swap in another and see if that helps.
If you have tried everything, and still no help, you could try a new wire from the relay to the starter solenoid. This is that black wire we started with. Older toyotas sometimes have a problem with degraded wiring not passing enough current to operate the starter

May 04, 2012 | 1992 Toyota Tercel

1 Answer

Switch is on, turn key, no signal to starter, no click no contack


COMMON CAUSES OF NO-CRANK NO-START

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jun 15, 2011 | Ford Windstar Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Won;t crank


Hi, if the car engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit. Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger). Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay). Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).

May 26, 2011 | 1994 Dodge Stealth

2 Answers

I drove my 1999 accord EX to work & 8 hrs. later I tried to start it and it did nothing. Tried jumping still nothing. Put new battery on and it still did nothing.What is the problem?


Hi, diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit.

Ten Reasons why you car won't start..
  1. Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  2. Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  3. Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  4. Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  5. Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  6. Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  7. Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  8. Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  9. Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  10. Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Hope it helps identify and solve the problem

Jan 16, 2011 | 1999 Honda Accord

1 Answer

I have a 2003 Saturan Ion that won't start


Hi, this is what you should do when your car won't start. Diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit. Check it out.....
  • Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  • Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  • Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  • Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  • Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  • Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  • Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  • Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  • Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  • Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Dec 02, 2010 | 2003 Saturn ION

1 Answer

I have a 1997 grand prix. Most days it starts. once in a while it will not start. You can sometimes rock key back and forth quickly and it will catch. But most of the time odly enough wait over night and...


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jul 14, 2010 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

My car does not start or turn over. The radio works and so does the fan.


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jul 14, 2010 | 1995 Suzuki Sidekick

2 Answers

Engine will not turn over. lights, horn, everything else works, no clicks, no nothing, but it will not turn over.


You're describing a no rotation issue and not a no start issue correct? If you dont hear/feel the starter relay clicking, it eliminates everything in the circuit to that point meaning the ignition switch, Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) (you don't have a neutral start switch unless you have a rare manual transmission), ground input from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to the starter relay coil, and starter relay are good. Based on what you've said that leaves the primary battery cable from the battery to the starter, and the wire from the starter relay to the starter solenoid contact on the starter. Have you checked their continuity? One more voltage to check at contact 30 (input volts from battery to starter relay contacts) on the starter relay socket. Should see 12vdc all the time.

You should check the battery. The true test is a load test. Does jumping the battery using jumper cables make any difference? If it starts, change the battery. I take it to check the starter you jumpered the solenoid contact on the starter to the battery correct? Have you tried wiggling the battery cables as you turn the key? They can corrode and fail internally. Are the engine and chassy ground connections clean and tight?

Jul 14, 2010 | 2004 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

IS THERE A FUSE FOR THE ECU ON A 92 EAGLE TALON


I don't think so. I got a 95 and I've done all kinds of electrical checking for various things and to my knowledge there isn't. There's fuses for the ignition and engine along with other electrical items but no specific computer fuse that would turn off a computer. I assume the car won't start?

If your car is simply not starting it could be something as simple as the neutral safety switch if you only hear a click turning the key. Disconnect under left side dash. White and has a green and black wire coming from button behind clutch pedal.

If car cranks but just wont start then could be numerous things. Check the 30 and 40 amp fuses under hood. Make sure battery terminals are connected tight and clean with brush tool if needed. If battery is fine and charged, I assume you have checked, then I'd focus on the ignition system.

ignition switch (in steering column)
neutral safety switch (disconnect above pedal)
starter relay (under radio)
starter solenoid
starter

If cranks then neutral, ignition and relay switches are fine
If clicks then ignition and relay fine but neutral switch or solenoid may be bad

Jan 26, 2010 | 1992 Eagle Talon

2 Answers

Engine won't crank over,it's a five speed when pushed starts right up and runs good.when turned off will not start when you turn the key nothing,not a sound at all..


check to make sure the clutch pedal switch is functioning and that the floor mat isn't blocking the clutch pedal from hitting the switch, basically its either the clutch pedal switch or something between the ignition switch to the starter but i'd try the clutch pedal switch first, its the easiest to check

Jun 21, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet Camaro

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