Question about 1990 Chrysler New Yorker

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No spark at plugs

I replaced the ignition coil and still no spark....I tested the power going into the ignition coil and it was there so I am stumped

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This car does not have points. The spark is controlled by the computer. Try checking the codes. If the fuel pump does not work either, then it may be the ASD relay.

Posted on Jul 03, 2015

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  • Chrysler Master
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Your car may be old enough so it has "points" in the distributor. Check for proper gap there, and that the points are opening/closing. also perhaps replace "points and condenser". This used to be called a "tune-up".

Posted on Apr 06, 2015

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What ignition type does your vehicle have coil on plug or a coil pack with 8 plug wire towers ? If you have coil on plug ignition there are two wires going to the coils , one has battery + an the other is control from PCM . Check power first with volt meter or test light . Or use a spark tester on those two cylinders . No Spark Testing control testing

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Ignition mystery! 1994 GMC Suburban 2500 5.7 mtr. No spark to spark plugs. Have spark from coil to distributor. Have changed coil wire, cap, rotor, ignition module, and coil. have 12.5 volts going to...


I guess you could have the ignition analyzed on an oscilloscope. Maybe a tech could see something then.
I always heard the only gap was the spark plug gap-the rotor has no gap-are you sure you got the correct rotor? And does it touch the top distributor cap coil wire tower?

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My 92 explorer has no spark


Hi, here are some tests you can do to diagnose the problem. Please let me know if you have questions.

First, use a voltmeter or 12 volt test light to check for power on the red wire going to pin 8 of the ignition control module when the key is on. The module is in the left front corner of the engine compartment.

jturcotte_2441.gif
jturcotte_2440.gif

If there is no power, the problem is the ignition switch or EEC relay. If there is power, next, check the ignition coil as listed below.

IGNITION COIL TESTINGPrimary and Secondary Circuit Tests
  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF , disconnect the battery, then detach the wiring harness connector from the ignition coil to be tested.
  2. Check for dirt, corrosion or damage on the terminals.

PRIMARY RESISTANCE
  1. Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the following terminals on the ignition coil, and note the resistance:

Except 2.3L, 2.5L and 5.0L engines


B+ to Coil 1 B+ to Coil 2 B+ to Coil 3
The resistance between all of these terminals should have been between 0.3-1.0 ohms. If the resistance was more or less than this value, the coil should be replaced with a new one.

SECONDARY RESISTANCE


jturcotte_2439.gif

Fig. Fig. 1: Engine ignition coil harness connections-3.0L and 4.0L engines

  1. Measure, using the ohmmeter, and note the resistance between each corresponding coil terminal and the two spark plug wire towers on the ignition coil. The coil terminals and plug wires towers are grouped as follows:
Except 2.3L, 2.5L and 5.0L engines

Terminal 3 (coil 1)-spark plugs 1 and 5 Terminal 2 (coil 3)-spark plugs 2 and 6 Terminal 1 (coil 2)-spark plugs 3 and 4

If the coils test good, move on the the crankshaft sensor.
Using a DVOM set to the DC scale to monitor less than 5 volts, measure the voltage between the sensor Cylinder Identification (CID) terminal and ground by backprobing the sensor connector. If the connector cannot be backprobed, fabricate or purchase a test harness. The sensor is okay if the voltage reading varies more than 0.1 volt with the engine running at varying RPM. (check both the blue and gray wires at the ignition module with the engine cranking.)



jturcotte_2442.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: CKP sensor wire harness connections for the 4.0L (VIN X and E) engines


If there is power and both the coils and sensor check good, replace the ignition control module.

Oct 27, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

SKIPPING PROBLEM . SPARK PLUGS & WIRES HAS BEEN DONE. THERE'S NO 12 VOLTS AT THE COIL CONNECTOR PLUG WITH THE KEY ON. LYMAN


Sound like a ground problem; the fastest way to identify the Power and Ground Circuits is using a wiring diagram. If you don't have one you'll have to find out by trial and error as you probe each circuit.

The power circuit is tested with the Key On and Engine Off. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Negative Terminal and with the other end, probe the Power Circuit. Turn the Key to the Run position. If the Power Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up. Here are the possible results:
* You got 12 Volts on the Power Circuit
Good, this is a good sign. The next step is to check the Ground Circuit of the Coil on Plug connector that you're testing.

* No Power in only one Ignition Coil
Without 12 Volts, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Power the new one will not Spark.
Since the Power Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Power Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Power at any Ignition Coils
The fuse or relay that supplies this voltage is blown or BAD.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to see where this fuse and/or relay is located and replace as necessary.
After replacing the blown fuse or the defective relay. Retest the Ignition Coil.

Them, the Ground Circuit is tested with the Key On or Off. It doesn't matter because this is a Chassis Ground. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Positive Terminal and with the other end, probe the Ground Circuit. If the Ground Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up.

* You got Ground
Good, now the next step is to verify that the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil is receiving the Triggering Signal. This info belongs to the next section of this article.

* No Ground in only one Ignition Coil
Without this Ground, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Ground the new one will not Spark.
Since the Ground Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Ground Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Ground at any Ignition Coils
This usually happens thru' human error in most cases and is a very rare thing. Usually the engine was replaced and this ground was not re-attached.
You can Ground this circuit with a jumper wire. Jumpering to Ground just one Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil should provide Ground to all of them (consult your Repair Manual's Wiring Diagrams to be sure).
With this jumper wire to Ground attached, crank the vehicle.
If in fact the Ground Circuit does have an open short, this (the jumper wire to Ground) should make the vehicle start, or at least get the Ignition Coil to Spark.
Repair the open short and retest for Spark or retry starting the vehicle.


Hope this helps. Keep us updated.

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4 Answers

No spark at plugs . Engine won't start, check fuel first, getting plenty. Then check for spark, no spark.


Have you checked your plug wires to see that are tight? The plug wire may need replaced.

Aug 21, 2009 | 1994 Buick LeSabre

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94 protege dx sohc weak spark???????


I know ths is late, but I had the same problem. I replaced the plugs, plug wires, rotor & cap, ignition coil & then the entire distributor -- no change. What finally fixed the problem was a new "igniter" from a junkyard -- small device located on the bracket which holds the coil & fusebox. The old igniter was a bit corroded on the back from fumes from the battery. While I was at it, I also put in a new ignition condensor which is mounted on the same bracket -- but later determined that the old condensor was fine. A new igniter is expensive (>$100) but you can get one chepaly if you pull your own from a junkyard (I paid $7 for mine). Good luck.

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94 toyota camery no spark


I had the same problem recently but replacing the ignition Coil under the distributor (inside) solved the problem. Also replaced the distributor Cap and rotor at the same time.

Jul 18, 2008 | 1994 Toyota Camry

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