Question about 1995 Nissan Pathfinder
If the brake lines arent leaking, the wheel cylinders arent leaking, its possible its the master cylinder or the ABS assembly is bypassing internally...best to have a mechanic look at it as they have special pliers that can pinch off, and not damage, the rubber flex hoses to the calipers and rear end
Posted on Apr 05, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Coolant leaks can occur anywhere in the
cooling system. Nine out of ten times, coolant leaks are easy to find
because the coolant can be seen dripping, spraying, seeping or bubbling
from the leaky component. So open the hood and visually inspect the
engine and cooling system for any sign of liquid leaking from the
engine, radiator or hoses. The color of the coolant may be green,
orange or yellow depending on the type of antifreeze in the system. The
most common places where coolant may be leaking are:Water pump. A bead shaft seal will
allow coolant to dribble out of the vent hole just under the water pump
pulley shaft. If the water pump is a two-piece unit with a backing
plate, the gasket between the housing and back cover may be leaking.
The gasket or o-ring that seals the pump to the engine front cover on
cover-mounted water pumps can also leak coolant. Look for stains,
discoloration or liquid coolant on the outside of the water pump or
engine.Radiator. Radiators can develop
leaks around upper or loser hose connections as a result of vibration.
The seams where the core is mated to the end tanks is another place
where leaks frequently develop, as is the area where the cooling tubes
in the core are connected or soldered to the core headers. The core
itself is also vulnerable to stone damage. But a major factor in many
radiator leaks is internal corrosion that eats away from the inside
out. That's why regular coolant flushes and replacing the antifreeze is
oses. Cracks, pinholes or splits in a radiator hose or heater hose will leak coolant. A hose leak will usually send a stream of hot coolant spraying out of the hose. A corroded hose connection or a loose or damaged hose clamp may also allow coolant to leak from the end of a hose. Sometimes the leak may only occur once the hose gets hot and the pinhole or crack opens up. Freeze plugs (casting plugs or expansion plugs in the sides of the engine block and/or cylinder head). The flat steel plugs corroded from the inside out, and eventually eat through allowing coolant to leak from the engine. The plugs may be hard to see because they are behind the exhaust manifold, engine mount or other engine accessories. On V6 and V8 blocks, the plugs are most easily inspected from underneath the vehicle.
Heater Core. The heater core is located inside the heating ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) unit under the dash. It is out of sight so you canï¿½t see a leak directly. But if the heater core is leaking (or a hose connection to the heater core is leaking), coolant will be seeping out of the bottom of the HVAC unit and dripping on the carpet. Look for stains or wet spots on the bottom of the plastic HVAC case, or on the passenger side floor.
Intake Manifold gasket. The gasket that seals the intake manifold to the cylinder heads may leak and allow coolant to enter the intake port, crankcase or dribble down the outside of the engine. Some engines such as General Motors 3.1L and 3.4L V6 engines as well as 4.3L, 5.0L and 5.7L V8s are notorious for leaky intake manifold gaskets. The intake manifold gaskets on these engines are plastic and often fail at 30,000 to 80,000 miles. Other troublesome applications include the intake manifold gaskets on Buick 3800 V6 and Ford 4.0L V6 engines.
INTERNAL COOLANT LEAKS
There are the worst kind of coolant leaks for two reasons. One is that they are impossible to see because they are hidden inside the engine. The other is that internal coolant leaks can be very expensive to repair.
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Posted on Nov 24, 2008
Assuming that the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, it looks like the torque converter lock-up system doesn't release as fast as it should, so if you brake hard, the converter is still locked up and your wheel brakes stall your engine (just like pressing ******* the brakes with the clutch pedal released on a manual transmission vehicle). Normally, when you brake hard, the lock-up should release and prevent the stall from happening. Might be a bad torque converter, or a bad lock up solenoid in the transmission... Before jumping to anything else, i'd try checking the fluid level in the transmission and an oil/filter change in the transmission. Lots of times one or the other can cure the problem.
Posted on Jan 13, 2009
SOURCE: 95 nissan pathfinder
there is a fusible link that runs off the positive side of the battery. The fuse inside the link is most likely burnt. That would be my first thought. Second would be the voltage regulator
Posted on Jan 14, 2009
all trans. take dex 2 or dex 3 with your nissan being a 95 i would say dex 3 my friend. dextron 3 is like dot 3 brake fluid it mixes with all fluids of its class.
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
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