What is causing my starter to engage while the motor is running and won't quit until you unhook the battery?
Hooked up a radio and speakers and my battery went dead and I plugged my battery charger into a 220 plug accidentaly and turned it on.Now when i crank my bronco the starter comes back on until I unhook the battery.
Re: What is causing my starter to engage while the motor...
Ouch! Sounds like the Bendix on the starter motor could have been damaged, or possibly the starter relay. I'd check the relay first. With ignition and engine off. pull the small terminal on the relay terminal Labeled "S" for start. It is next to the Battery terminal. (See enlarged pix on the link below.) Next, try to start the engine. It should not even try. Then, reconnect the starter wire to the relay. Have a friend start the engine and then pull the wire from the "S" terminal. If pulling the wire kills he engine, the you probably have a bad ignition switch. If the starter motor is still engaged with engine running, then I'd suspect a stuck relay or stuck Bendix. Since the relay is the cheaper component of the two (10 to 25 bucks), I'd change the relay. If the relay doesn't remedy the situation, It's time to replace the starter/Bandix.
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Have you checked the Solenoid? That would be why the starter would keep engaging, but not start. You might also want to check the Voltage Regulator, and the sensors. Here is a page of images that might help you with identification.
Try this. Take a positive battery jumper cable and hook it directly to the big lug terminal on the starter solenoid that the cable hooks to from the battery. Take the negative jumper cable and hook it to a good steel, iron, or aluminum ground connection right by the starter, on the motor. Now try the key to start it. If it still says nothing, I'm thinking you have some wire harnesses unhooked from the rollover. Someone really good could take a little jumper wire and connect the tiny terminal on the starter solenoid (which goes to the key switch), to the positive battery cable, and that should make the starter work, hopefully. If it cranks with this direct application of power to the starter, be sure and check the "ground straps" between the motor and the frame. I think there are about 3 or 4. Some may have snapped. Be blessed.
Have your battery tested to start the fact that the radio and lights work are not an indicator that the battery is good. if in fact battery is good and you hear a click and nothing else then make sure you got power at starter from ignition switch and power going to the actual starter motor while some one holds the key in the crank position. Do this safely. the starter should have power on the B+ terminalwhich comes directly from the battery. It also gets power when in the crank position to engage the solenoid in the Igniton terminal when engaged the power from B+ is tranfer to the the starter motor which in turn turns the engine if this isnt happening for you replace the starter
I know you had the starter tested but i still thing you have one of two things going on here, first acid damage to the Positive battery cable at the battery, if this is present you will notice the outside of the cable seems swelled yo under the red insulator, this causes low voltage, enough to click the starter solenoid but not enough to turn the starter motor. The other problem is burnt contact inside the starter solenoid itself, this problem will cause a clicking noise from the solenoid with no starter engagement, it very common. The starter solenoid is near the battery just follow the Positive cable from the battery to it, carefully jumper across it, does the starter engage? Here is a picture of the starter solenoid.
Try unhooking one of the battery cables and leave it off for at least 20 minutes. When you hook it back up the computers should re-boot. That has solved problems for me with heater, interior lites, power windows, AC, day time running lites, power mirrors, fast idle, rough or slow shifting, CD player, and wipers on GM autos and S-10 PU and Dodge trucks. None of the switches are connected to the device they control anymore. The switch tells the computer to open the window and the computer send a signal to the window motor. When the computer gets confused strange things will happen or not happen. Of course you may have to re-set your radio stations.
Disconnect the positive Battery cable (You will lose radio and seat settings and wipe computer memory clean) Remove the two 15MM bolts and lower starter down and out of the transmission starter well mark wires to which posts they go then unhook wires do not lose the shims if it has shims, they are important keeps starter from staying engaged after motor starts. Installation is reverse order.
check your fuses first for a blown fuse.
check the very thick cable that runs from the battery positive to the starter motor to make sure it isnt heavily corroded either at the batter or starter end. corrosion will have to be quite bad and therefore obvious if sufficient to cause a problem. also check the fixings are tight on either end. perform the same checks for the thick cbale from the negative battery terminal . this will either run directly to the engine/gearbox housing or to to the chassis/vehicle from which it will connect to the engine via another cable. all of this needs to be tight and corrosion free.
if so, then you will find a much thinner cable that runs to the starter motor solenoid (which is part of the starter motor assembly). this small cable will be very close to the thick one. check that this cable has a live feed while an assistant tries to engage the starter motor with the key. you will need a test lamp or voltmeter to do this.
if there is a live feed from this thin cable, and you are definately happy that the battery and the heavy cables are good, then the fault has too lie with the starter motor.
if there is not live feed at the small wire then this will be down to either a faulty ignition switch, a blown fuse, if fitted, a relay or a wiring fault.
does the clicking noise you hear ONLY occour while the key is turned to engage the starter motor? if so this could be the problem, otherwise I would think it is irrelevant to the problem.
You can test the ignition switch by removing the cowling around the ignition barrel. There is usualy 4 wires. one will be a pernament live feed into the switch. one will become live when the key is turned to the first stage ( for things like the radio). the next will only become live with the ignition on. The most important one here will be the one that becomes live while engaging the starter. if there is no live going out, but there is a live into the switch then it will obviously be the switch thats faulty.
failing that, it comes down to tracing the point where the live feed breaks down.
I'm not sure if there is a relay in this circuit, I would not have thought so, may worth trying to find out, perhaps by trying to get hold of a wiring diagram (manufacturers website?).