Question about 2014 Hyundai Tucson

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What are the black plastic boxes behind the rear fender wells? Where can I buy the screw inserts to tighten these?

These appear to be partial splash guards on the undercarriage at rear of 2014 Hyundai Tucson GL.

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 566 Answers

SOURCE: Where is the location of the rear window washer

hi the pump for r/washer is at the lower end of w/sreen fluid bottle accessable from under neath it will be either a pump solely for rear wash and another pump for front wash? or it may be a combined dual pump for both which will have seperate supply pipes for front and rear use rear select ion to dtermin whether pump is operating or not then come back to board with update ? for advice on problem with rear wash in-op ?

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

martin538
  • 117 Answers

SOURCE: Hyundai Tucson

The transmission filter is inside the transmission. You have to drain out the oil and remove the transmission pan and gasket. The filter is made of metal guaze and is screwed/bolted to the underneath of the valve body.

Posted on Apr 09, 2009

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: How do I remove rear rotor from 2005 hyundai

What you have to do is first remove the screws that hold the rotor on to the hub, let off the hand brake shoes(they are located inside the rotors) there is a rubber plug on the face of thr rotor, take that off and loosen the hand brake adjuster! remove the brake caliper and caliper carrier and the rotor should come off! hope this helps

Posted on Sep 06, 2009

kayzack519
  • 226 Answers

SOURCE: hyundai tucson 2007 rear door wont open

Sounds like the acutator that pushes and pulls. either lost power or died. I would assumed died. U need to check to see if it is on a seperate fuse first, it may be. If the fuse is ok, remove the hatch inside plastic panel and arm and disarm the alarm. See if the actuator moves.

Posted on Dec 08, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: hyundai tucson 2 liter crdi gear box sound its a

Hi there, the Common Rail Diesel Inyection (CRDI) 2000 cc 112 Hp M/T have a big trouble on cluth plate, and sounds very loud between 1500 and 2000 rpm on 2,3,4 shift.That motor has too much torque and cause excesive wear in the cluth roll and plate so starts roominess in the cluth system. You could change those parts but quickly the sounds come again. Hyundai is the resposable of that damage. I hope in the near future recall the CRDI model 112 Hp and replace the cluth.

Posted on Feb 28, 2010

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1 Answer

How to install splash guards on 2011 ford ranger


Unfortunately, your vehicle may not really appreciate your efforts!
The splash guards are normally installed on the folded edge of the fender well.
Depending on the material your fenders are made of, they may tear off very quickly. :-(
To reinforce the screws, small metal washers may help.
You have not indicated whether these guards will be on the front or rear fenders, or whether you are using the super heavy duty ones that fit only the rear, and hang under the back of the vehicle.
God bless your efforts.

Oct 09, 2015 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Where is the horn location under hood of a 2007 mercury mountneer?


Remove the LH front fender splash shield !
Fender Splash Shield Removal and Installation
  1. Loosen the running board bolts and lower the running board to access the front fender moulding pin-type retainer.
    • To install, tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).
  1. Remove the lower pin-type retainer from the front fender moulding.
  1. Remove the 2 rear pin-type retainers from the front fender moulding.
  1. Position the front fender moulding aside and remove the splash shield lower screw.
    >
  1. Remove the front splash shield screws.
  1. Remove the front splash shield pin-type retainers.
  1. Remove the front splash shield.
  1. Remove the front fender splash shield.
  1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Mar 25, 2015 | 2007 Mercury Mountaineer

2 Answers

Cracked exhaust manifold


Need to R&Rand put splash flaps in the fender wells.

Nov 20, 2009 | 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Alternator removal 1998 ford taurus dohc


3.0L (4V)
Removal
  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
  1. Remove the accessory drive belt from the generator pulley.
  1. Remove the power steering line bracket and heater hose support bracket from the generator.
  1. Remove the upper generator bolts.
  1. Partially raise the vehicle on a hoist.
  1. Remove the right front wheel.
  1. Remove the lower fender splash shield retainers and position the shield out of the way.
  1. Remove the generator splash shield.
  1. Raise the vehicle.
  1. Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the battery positive cable from the generator.
  1. Position an adjustable stand to the subframe.
  1. Remove the right subframe bolts.
  1. Remove the lower generator bolt.
  1. Lower the subframe to provide clearance.
  1. Remove the generator.
Installation
  1. NOTE: Do not tighten the lower bolt.

    Install the generator and the lower bolt.
  1. Raise the subframe and install the subframe bolts. Tighten the bolts to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft).
  1. Remove the adjustable stand.
  1. Lower the vehicle.
  1. Install the upper generator bolts and tighten them to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
  1. Install the power steering line bracket and the heater hose support bracket. Tighten the nut to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
  1. Install the accessory drive belt. Refer to Partially raise the vehicle.
  1. Tighten the lower generator bolt to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
  1. Connect the generator electrical connector.
  1. Install the battery positive B+ cable and nut. Tighten the cable nut to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
  1. Install the generator splash shield.
  1. Install the fender splash shield and the retainers.
  1. Install the right front wheel.
  1. Lower the vehicle.
  1. Connect the negative battery cable.

Nov 08, 2009 | 1998 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

I neede to remove the headlights for my 2008 E 350 and need instructions. OIt appears that removing the front bumper is needed ? Thanks


Here's some instructions for removing bumper and headlights.

E-Class W211 front bumper removal (standard body style).

Tools needed:
- Automotive wheel ramps (Rhino ramps from Autozone).
- 1/4" drive socket set with 8mm and 10mm sockets.
- #20 torx bit.
- Floor jack, optional but useful.
- Flat blade screwdriver.

Instructions for bumper removal:

1) Turn front wheels full right to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of left wheel well plastic splash guard. It's difficult to remove this fastener once the car is up on the wheel ramps.

2) Turn front wheels full left to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of right wheel well plastic splash guard.

3) Drive car up on wheel ramps. Block rear tires. Open hood.

4) Remove lower mesh plastic grille. There are five attachment points on the top edge of the grille. You can get to three of them with your hand by reaching between the radiator and the back side of the grille. The two outer ones can be released with a screwdriver also reaching in between the grille and radiator. Once the plastic tabs are released, you can remove the grille by pulling it out from the front of the car.

5) Remove the plastic panel located immediately behind the bumper from the bottom of the engine compartment. This panel is held in place with nine sheet metal screws with a 8mm hex head. Five screws are on the bottom of the car and there are two screws in each wheel well at the inner lower edge. After removing all nine screws you can work the panel free.

6) Disconnect the cable from each fog light and remove both fog lights. They are held in place by two sheet metal screws with a #20 torx head.

7) Remove the side marker bulbs. The one on the passenger side turns clockwise to remove and the one on the driver side turns counter-clockwise.

8) Remove the temperature sensor from its socket on the driver side.

9) If you have a floor jack, raise the car at the jack point on the cross member below the engine. You do not want to raise it off the wheel ramps. But it helps to have more clearance above the tires to work in the front wheel wells.

10) Remove three of the plastic nuts holding the forward half of the plastic wheel well liner in place. It's not necessary to remove the plastic liner. You just need to loosen it up so that you can pull it away from the fender to gain access to the screw and bracket securing the bumper to the fender.

11) Pull back the wheel well liner and remove the sheet metal screw from the rear end of the metal bracket . There is only one sheet metal screw (#20 torx head) holding this bracket in place. Don't attempt to remove the bracket yet. I used a #20 torx bit in a 1/4" socket with a 6-inch extension for a 1/4" drive wrench. The head of the screw faces the ground.

12) Remove the 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding the bumper to the headlight assembly between the small lens and large lens (both sides).

13) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) on either side of the large grille area opening.

14) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) securing the bumper to the bottom edge of the crashbar. You can access these bolts through the front where you removed the plastic mesh grille.

15) Remove the three 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding each headlight assembly in place. Two longer bolts are on top. One at the rear outer corner and one at the front inner corner. The third bolt is accessed from the bottom. It's in the area above the fog lamps. You don't need to disconnect the headlight cables and remove the assembly. But it helps to allow the headlight assembly to "float" freely while you disengage the bumper from the fender.

16) At this point all of the fasteners holding the bumper in place have been removed. The only thing left to do is to remove the two brackets "clamping" the bumper cover to the lower front edge of the front fenders. Before you do this, position some cardboard boxes, bags of packing material, six packs of paper towels, or other suitable items to protect the bumper in case it falls off the car.

17) The bracket holding the bumper cover to the fender has a "pin" that slips into a slot at the front edge of the bumper cover. There is a matching slot near the front edge of the fender. It's not possible to see this pin from the bottom of the car. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the bracket away from the bumper/fender and towards the center of the car. The bracket will "hinge" on the pin at the front end of the bracket. After you swing the bracket away from the bumper, you need to slide it forward to remove it from the slot in the bumper cover and fender. You will probably scratch some paint off of this bracket with the screwdriver. I recommend repainting the scratched areas of the bracket before reinstalling it.

18) After removing the bracket from each side of the car you need to deal with the small plastic "hook" holding the bumper cover to the very front tip of the fender. This hook is an integral part of the bumper cover. Disengaging this hook from the fender is probably the most difficult step of removing the bumper. Simultaneously raise the head light assembly slightly, push the leading edge of the fender outward slightly, and push the bumper cover inward toward the headlight assembly. Don't get too aggressive with the fender. It's aluminum and you will make a real mess if you apply too much pressure on the fender. It took me about 20 minutes to free each side from this hook. It should take you less time, since you now know that the hook exists!

19) Gently pull the bumper forward and away from the car. This is one step where a second person would be helpful. But I did manage to do this step alone. There is a "pulley" like attachment point on each side just below the fender/bumper seam.

To re-install the bumper, reverse the order of the steps above. When re-installing the bracket between the bumper cover and fender, I smeared a thin coating of car wash soap on the bracket to facilitate snapping the bracket back into place.




Oct 09, 2009 | Mercedes-Benz E350 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to replace thunderbird antenna


please rate service.

Automatic Electric Antenna
Removal
  1. Lower electric antenna (18850) .
  1. Remove rear retaining screws of RH front wheel splash shield for access to antenna lower retaining bolt.
  1. Remove lower retaining bolt.
  1. Remove radio antenna nut (18865) from top of motor tube and remove electric antenna through fender/splash shield access.
  1. Disconnect signal cable and motor wire connector(s).
Installation
  1. To install, reverse Removal procedure.
  1. Tighten top radio antenna nut to 6-8 Nm (54-70 lb-in).
  1. Tighten lower electric antenna retaining bolt to 5.8-7.8 Nm (51-69 lb-in).
  1. Check operation of electric antenna and radio chassis .

    Automatic Electric Antenna


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mast
Mast, Power NOTE: A power antenna mast which is bent or broken can be replaced without replacing the motor and tube assembly.
Removal
  1. Remove radio antenna nut (18865) and radio antenna stanchion (18919) .

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  1. Loosen retaining nut inside tube using 14 mm (9/16 inch) socket, and slide nut part-way up mast.
  1. Raise antenna to run plastic drive wire at bottom of mast out of motor. Note direction of teeth on plastic drive wire.
  1. Saw off damaged portion of antenna mast. Remove burrs from mast and slide nut and contact tube off stationary tube.
Installation
  1. With the teeth on the plastic drive wire facing toward motor on antenna, push end of plastic drive wire of replacement mast assembly down into tube. Push it around curve at bottom of tube until end enters drive mechanism.
  1. Run motor down while pushing on plastic drive wire until about 305 mm (12 inch) of wire has been drawn into the tube. Stop motor and insert bottom of antenna mast into tube. Lower mast.
  1. Slide contact tube and radio antenna nut down antenna mast. Tighten nut to 0.45 Nm (4 lb-in).

  2. Raise and lower antenna several times to ensure proper operation.
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Jul 09, 2009 | 1995 Ford Thunderbird

1 Answer

Removing 2000 saturn fender


IF YOU LOOK ON THE INSIDE OF THE FENDER WELL, BEHIND THE PLASTIC SPLASH GUARDS, YOU SHOULD FIND THE BOLTS THAT ARE HANGING ON TO THE FENDER. HOPE THIS HELPS. THANKS FOR AN HONEST RATING AND FOR USING FIX-YA. PLEASE KEEP ME POSTED.

May 14, 2009 | 2000 Saturn SL

1 Answer

How to 1998 Taurus altenator R&R


please rate highly if this helps
Generator 3.0L (2V)
Removal
  1. Partially raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .
  2. Remove the right front wheel. Refer to Section 00-02 .
  3. Remove the lower fender splash shield retainers and position the shield out of the way.
  4. Lower the vehicle.
  5. Remove the accessory drive belt from the generator pulley. Refer to Section 03-05 .
  6. Remove the power steering line bracket and heater hose support bracket from the generator.
  7. Remove the upper generator bolts.
  8. Remove the generator splash shield.
  9. Raise the vehicle.
  10. Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the battery positive cable from the generator.
  11. Position an adjustable stand to the subframe.
  12. Remove the right subframe bolts.
  13. Remove the lower generator bolt.
  14. Disconnect the right hand stabilizer link.
  15. Lower the subframe to provide clearance.
  16. Remove the generator.
Installation
  1. NOTE: Do not tighten the lower bolt.

    Install the generator and the lower bolt.
  1. Raise the subframe and install the subframe bolts. Tighten the bolts to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft).
  1. Connect the right hand stabilizer link and torque to 47-62 Nm (35-46 lb-ft).
  1. Remove the adjustable stand.
  1. Lower the vehicle.
  1. Install the upper generator bolts and tighten them to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
  1. Install the power steering line bracket and the heater hose support bracket. Tighten the nut to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
  1. Install the accessory drive belt. Refer to Section 03-05 .
  1. Partially raise the vehicle.
  1. Tighten the lower generator bolt to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
  1. Connect the generator electrical connector.
  1. Install the battery positive B + cable and nut. Tighten the cable nut to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
  1. Install the generator splash shield.
  1. Install the fender splash shield and the retainers.
  1. Install the right front wheel.
  1. Lower the vehicle.
3.0L (4V)
Removal
  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 14-01 .
  1. Remove the accessory drive belt from the generator pulley. Refer to Section 03-05 .
  1. Remove the power steering line bracket and heater hose support bracket from the generator.
  1. Remove the upper generator bolts.
  1. Partially raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .
  1. Remove the right front wheel. Refer to Section 00-02 .
  1. Remove the lower fender splash shield retainers and position the shield out of the way.
  1. Remove the generator splash shield.
  1. Raise the vehicle.
  1. Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the battery positive cable from the generator.
  1. Position an adjustable stand to the subframe.
  1. Remove the right subframe bolts.
  1. Remove the lower generator bolt.
  1. Lower the subframe to provide clearance.
  1. Remove the generator.
Installation
  1. NOTE: Do not tighten the lower bolt.

    Install the generator and the lower bolt.
  1. Raise the subframe and install the subframe bolts. Tighten the bolts to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft).
  1. Remove the adjustable stand.
  1. Lower the vehicle.
  1. Install the upper generator bolts and tighten them to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
  1. Install the power steering line bracket and the heater hose support bracket. Tighten the nut to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
  1. Install the accessory drive belt. Refer to Section 03-05 .
  1. Partially raise the vehicle.
  1. Tighten the lower generator bolt to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
  1. Connect the generator electrical connector.
  1. Install the battery positive B+ cable and nut. Tighten the cable nut to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
  1. Install the generator splash shield.
  1. Install the fender splash shield and the retainers.
  1. Install the right front wheel.
  1. Lower the vehicle.
  1. Connect the negative battery cable.
3.4L (4V)
Removal
  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301). Refer to Section 14-01 .
  1. Remove the right side cowl vent screen. Refer to Section 01-02 .
  1. Raise the vehicle and remove right front wheel assembly. Refer to Section 00-02 .
  1. Remove right tie-rod. Refer to Section 11-02 .
  1. Remove accessory drive belt (8620) from generator. Refer to Section 03-05 .
  1. Disconnect electrical harness connector and output terminal wiring.
  1. Remove nut and position engine control sensor wiring (12A581) out of the way.
  1. Remove the two bolts and one stud bolt.
  1. Remove generator from vehcile

May 12, 2009 | 1998 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Replacing the Right Front Fender on a 1999 Mazda 626


Can you remove the wheel well splash shield and get access to the bolts? Body shop techs have a special tool to get into this area.

Here's a 97 Probe whcih was the same as a 626 in 1997:

Fender, Front Removal
  1. On GT models, remove the side sill extension. Refer to Section 01-08 for the removal and installation procedure.
  1. Remove the front fender bolt located in the door jamb opening.


    RH Side Shown, LH Side Similar


    b7b1239.gif

  1. Remove the three upper front fender bolts located on top of the front fender (16005) inside the engine compartment.
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  1. Remove the wheel (1007).
  1. Remove one push pin and five front fender splash shield bolts and remove the front fender splash shield (16102).
  1. Remove the upper front fender brace screw.
  1. Remove the inner front fender bolt.
  1. Remove the screw holding the front bumper cover (17D957) to the front fender.
  1. Remove the two lower front fender bolts.
  1. Remove the front fender.
Installation
To install, reverse the removal procedure. Tighten the front fender bolts to 7-9 Nm (61-86 lb-in).

Feb 24, 2009 | 1999 Mazda 626

1 Answer

Rear bumper on mazda mpv


Removal of the rear bumper on an Mazda 2004 to 2006 MPV.
It's afairly simple task: 1) Open the rear hatch or (door) remove the torx screws at the bottom of the weather strip. 2) Remove both tail lights by unscrewing the two phillip screws on each light, once removed the lights pulling toward the side of the van. Let them hang from the wires. You will see a clip (white in color),pry it out from behind the bumper material and go to the next step. 3) Remove three 8mm head screws in each fender well and three plastic clips. Then remove an 8mm screw at the top corner of the bumper against the rear fender. If your car has splash guards remove them as well. 4) Remove the two clips at the bottom of the bumper attached to the under carriage. 5) Pull the bumper toward the back of the vehicle be careful with the tail lights. Remember, they are hanging loose.
And that's it, you have done it.
Ferni

Oct 07, 2008 | 2005 Mazda MPV

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