Question about 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Wheel balance problems usually occur at speeds above 40mph. Also check driveline u joints for problems, but these usually show up when taking off and vibration at lower speeds. Check wheel rims for being bent and tires that are free of bumps or out of round.
Posted on Apr 14, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This could the problem with misaligned wheel ,please get the wheel alignment done and check for any extra wear the type on the any one side which cause this problem....
Posted on Aug 28, 2008
It is somewhat Normal Depending on how Loud the Clunking is. This is a Common Complaint on the Chevy 4x4's. I have verified this through the Dealerships here in Oklahoma and they all say the Same thing But, I am with you, They should go into 4x4 without that Clunk for as much as we pay for them.
Posted on Jan 26, 2009
Have you checked the u-joint yet? i had what sounds like a similar problem to yours and thats what took care of it for me...
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
I just had the same issue with a 1999 2500HD and the vibration got worse above 50 mph. Problem was resolved with a new driveshaft. Old one (aluminum) was badly out of true and the problem didn't really occur until I had the U joints changed - then bent driveshaft vibration was noticeable. New driveshaft resolved issue.
Posted on Dec 03, 2009
On the full size, the front actuator is electric, not vacuum.
When in 4wd mode, a switch on top of the transfer case conducts 12 volts out to the actuator. Wire #50 (brown) is the 12v feed, and it conducts to the light blue wire (#900) to the actuator.
When shifted out of 4wd, the switch opens up and no voltage goes to the actuator.
Check voltage at the connector for the front actuator (at the front differential - it looks like a large bullet that threads into the front diff.) If it has 12 volts, the actuator is the problem. If it does not have 12 volts, check the transfer case switch and the power feed to the transfer case.
I'll assume it is the actuator, if the plug to the actuator is getting 12 volts when in 4wd.
The way this actuator works, is it is a sealed chamber that gets heated by voltage. When it heats, the pin in the end swells and pushes a shift fork in the front differential. The shift fork engages a spline on the passenger side of the differential, and boom! you have 4WD.
GM offered an upgrade to this actuator that is a motor instead of a heated device. However, it requires a small harness addition, a spacer, and a new actuator. It is about a $150 to $200 option.
If I were you, I would buy a new heated actuator. They are available at most auto parts stores, and are about $90. They are also on eBay for about $55 plus shipping. These are very easy to change - just thread out the old one, and thread in a new one.
Good luck. The actuator is usually the problem 90% of time but recheck all of the wire harness just to maker sure there is no short before replacing any parts.
Posted on Jan 07, 2010
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