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The problem you explain usually has something to do with the sending unit float. Floats can absorb gas to the point where they just sink to the bottom of the tank. This can happen with both brass and plastic floats. The second thing is the sending unit you installed in your tank. Check to see if when you placed the unit in the tank , the float arm may have hung up on a baffle or some other obstruction in the tank. This would keep the sending unit from showing correctly. Good Luck Friend.
One of two things: either the gage itself is malfuntioning or the float/sending unit in the gas tank is failing. Disconnect the plug at the tank for the sending unit, pick up a new sending unit and attach it to the plug without taking the old unit out of the tank. Then operate the float up and down on the new sending unit. If the gas gage reads correctly when the float is all the way up (full) and all the way down (empty) the old sending unit is probably bad and should be replaced. If there is no difference when you connect the new sending unit, the gage is probably bad. Then you can return the new sending unit (as long as the auto parts store allows returns of electrical parts) and buy a new gage. Install the new gage and...happy motoring.
Come across this type of thing before they probably used the tank for later vehicles & that is reason for two holes.
The rubber seal is there as you state ask a dealer if they can supply the plug hole seal for the one your not useing, The year & Model is most important when speaking to the dealer. Best Wishes, Malcolm Campbell.
replacement fuel tank sending unit Before you begin,disconnect the negative battery cable to be sure no electrical sparks are possible. You're dealing with gas which is highly flammable!Your fuel tank sending unit is located in the top of the fuel tank, but is accessible under your back seat (or under the carpet in your trunk) on some models. The sending unit will be protected by an access cover, usually held on with a couple of screws. Lift your back seat or trunk carpet and locate the access cover for your fuel tank sending unit. Remove the screws holding the cover in place and remove the access cover to reveal the fuel tank sending unit. Safety Note: Gasoline is highly flammable. By removing the fuel tank sending unit, you are opening the gas tank. Be sure there are no sources of spark or flame nearby. With the access cover removed, you'll see the fuel tank sending unit right there on top. It will have a wiring harness plugged into the top (this tells your gas gauge how much fuel is in the tank). Unplug the wiring harness and move it safely to the side. If your fuel tank sending unit is screwed or bolted in place, remove the screws or bolts. Some sending units are a "twist-lock" type. They work like the old twist-lock gas caps. You'll see a few notches along the outer ring of the sending unit. Place the tip of a sturdy flat head screwdriver in the notch and gently tap it counter-clockwise. The sending unit will rotate until it's loose. (the picture above shows the fuel tank out of the car to illustrate the fuel tank sending unit's location). Now you can remove the fuel tank sending unit in one piece. Attached to it is a long rod with a float at the end, so you might have to try a couple of different angles to get it out. As usual, installation is the reverse of removal. Don't forget to plug the new sender in or it won't send you anything!
The fuel pump is in the tank. Lower the gas tank and unhook all the lines. On the top there should be a big round disk holding the sending unit down use a hammer or dead blow hammer and a punch to knock it counter clockwise. The sending unit should pop up, save the rubber o-ring that is under it as you will reuse it unless the new one has one. Pull the sending unit out of the tank and yout pump will be on it. I believe on those ones you have to reach into the tank and pinch 2 clips on the sides to get the pump out of the tank. Reverse order to reinstall. Make sure ring on top is all the way back on before putting tank back in place. I usually get someone to help with the hold down ring and we both use a dead blow and punch from each side to knock it back into place
Isuzu Rodeo Fuel pump and Sending UnitIdeally, it should take you about 2 hours. Disconnect the negative side of the battery in the engine compartment and press on the brake pedal several times to get rid of any electrical discharge. I belive it's a 10mm wrench to disconnect the battery. First you need to jack up the side of the car where the fuel pump and fuel tank is located. This is usually on the driver side. I changed the fuel sending unit on a 1999 and 2001 Rodeo and the tanks were on the driver sides. The fuel sending unit on Rodeo's goes bad and usually needs to be changed. This will cause you to get trouble code 463 amonng others which I had as well as your fuel gauge not working. It's really hard to find just the sending unit by itself but keep looking around and you can find it. It's a lot cheaper than buying the whole fuel pump. I found it here. http://ahi-parts.mobi/contact.html YOU SHOULD HAVE SOME MECHANICAL EXPERIENCE BEFORE UNDERTAKING SUCH A JOB. I would say any grade D+ or above mechanic can do it. BEFORE YOU GET STARTED MAKE SURE THAT THE FUEL TANK IS NEARLY EMPTY BECAUSE THE EXTRA WEIGHT WILL MAKE IT VERY DIFFICULT TO REINSTALL THE FUEL TANK AGAIN AS WELL AS IT'S REMOVAL. Take out the 5 or 6 bolts and one nut that are holding up the tank to the frame of the car. Get under there and see which bolts are holding up the tank and which ones are just holding the tank together. We're just interested in the bolts that are holding up the tank to the car. Make sure that you put a jack under the tank before removing the bolts so you can lower the tank slowly to avoid any damage to the tank. Once the bolts have been removed, slowly lower the tank with the jack. Not all the way because you have some lines that need to be undone. Enough to feel that the tank will not go down any further by itself. First you need to remove the tank filler tube/hose. This can be done by unscrewing the clamp that is holding the line to the tank. I believe it's a 10mm socket or a philips screw driver. It's a tight squeeze. The hose is located at the back of the tank. Next disconnect another hose that is much smaller from the tank. I Don't know what it's for but can easily be removed by pinching the fastener that is holding it in place, you may need some plyers, again its in the rear of tank and it's a tight squeeze. You may need to use a crow bar to gently push both hoses off the tank, once the clamps are off. Next disconnect the electrical connections on top of the pump. Use a screw driver to gently unhook the side clamps and push out. Gently. Lower the tank a little more. You will notice that 2 fuel lines come out of the fuel pump. These are hooked to fuel lines attached to the frame. These need to be disconnected from the lines on the frame. There should be some clamps by the frame of the car that can be taken out. You might need to use some force to disconned these lines but be gentle. Some plyers will come in handy as the plastic tabs usually fly out over time. Keep a record of which line goes to which line as you will need to reconnect the same lines. Now that everything that was attached to the tank and the vehicle has been removed the tank should come out really easy. Once on the ground you will notice that there is a metal ring kind of hooked onto the top of the tank to hold the pump down. You will need to use a screwdriver and a hammer to undo or make this ring turn counter clockwise to undo it, but first clear out any dust or debri from the top of the tank or fuel pump. You don't want anything to go into the tank once you take out the pump. When the ring is finally unhooked from the top of the fuel pump than the fuel pump can be removed very easily. Just remove the ring and pull up on the pump slowly as it may have gas in it. You will need to clear the float and filter from the bottom of the pump so be gentle and take it out slowly. Install the new pump and reinsert the metal ring. You should use a new gasket before installing the new pump. Removing the fuel lines from the old fuel pump, you will need special tools sold at any parts store. You can take your old and new pump to the store and they can show you how to take out the lines after you buy the special tools. Should cost you around $10. This tool is also good for replacing A/C line. If your replacing the pump, than the sending unit should already be attached so go down to step II below to continue. If your just replacing the sending unit, than you don't need to take out the lines but do disconnect them from the frame makes things easier but it's not really necessary. Once you have the fuel pump out you will notice the sending unit on the side of the pump. Notice that the little metal fingers have all been eaten away or corroded away. Compare to the new sending unit and you'll see why it had to be changed. Anyways....there is a little clamp holding the sending unit to the pump. Gently, gently pinch these together and push out. Once that is out the sending unit itself has some hooks that need to be pinched to push out. Disconnect the float from the sending unit and attach it to the new one. Once that is done, install the new sending unit in it's place and reinsert the clamp holding it in place.