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I have a brand new pressure pump (DAB) and won't turn of. I checked if any leaks at taps and pipe work and all ok. Can someone please explain to me the problem I'm having and how to fix it thanks

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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I don't know what DAB means, but there should be a fuel pump relay under the hood. It might be stuck closed, allowing current to keep going to the pump. Replace the relay, it should work right then.

Posted on Apr 02, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1118 Answers

SOURCE: Power steering pump still leaks after putting new one in.

the bubbles are just air in the system, it will eventualy go away. are you sure the leak is from the pump or is it just comming out the cap because of the air. also did you chk. the pressure line? that maybe where your leak is. unless you got a crack in the resavor, its most likely the pressure line. there is a pressure line and a return line.

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

  • 272 Answers

SOURCE: LS430 check VSC light on after check engine light on

My car (06 GS430) began giving me more frequent "Check VSC" warnings. (Code P0455 in my case. Really glad I bought that OBDII tool--resetting the codes is a snap!)

I knew that a loose gas cap could cause this, so normally I just give it a twist and it tightens. Now I found that no matter how many "clicks" I tightened the gas cap, it would not cinch down snug. The lightest turn the opposite way would open it.

I was all set to head over to CarQuest for a replacement filler cap. But I thought I'd inspect mine first just to see why it stopped holding. Upon inspection, I saw that what holds the cap in place is compression of the rubber O-ring at the back of the cap, which compresses against the filler neck. That apparently was no longer happening.

I carefully removed the O-ring from the cap--using screwdrivers to lift it over the edge of the groove it sits in. Like removing a bike tire from the rim--work your way around. Then I cut a strip of electrical tape about 10" long, and 1/4" wide. I wound this into the curved groove where the O-ring normally sits, just to build up a little thickness. Put the O-ring back in place. Done.

Now the cap tightens like it's supposed to, and thus far, it has stopped the VSC error codes. Don't know if it will fix your issue or not, Good luck.

Posted on May 09, 2009

  • 134 Answers

SOURCE: fuel pump relay

first alway check the simple things first like fuses and relays then start playin with changin out parts. under the hood you sould find a fuse panel if the lid does not tell you what is what you need to look into the service manuel find the fuel pump relay and switch it with the same type relay can works some the doesn't effect the engine like a fan relay for expamle. then try to start engine when turning key to the run pos you sould hear a fant hum or whine from the pump. if thats a no go take the main fuel line off before the fuel filter and see if a good stream of fuel comes out when you turn key to run pos.if so replace fuel filter.

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

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SOURCE: Hi I have a volvo 2005 v70 D5 I have just run a

could be gas filler kneck that goes from fuel tank door /cap to---gas tank lines do apear to be in that locating it could be sucking air +++not fuel+++that might cause that fault code you retreved i seen this before****.John

Posted on Dec 23, 2009

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2008 grand caravan 3.3 L engine blows the plastic Y-coolant pipe twice.


WATER PUMP PULLY LOOSE, OR THERMOSTAT CLOSED CAUSING BACK PRESSURE.

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No pressure for onga pump


check for water supply to the pump
If it is a bore pump then check for enough water in the bore, injection pressure to lift the water. It may be necessary to control the output from the pump to maintain the injection pressure. ( put a tap on the outlet side and turn partially off)
check for sucking air at pipe fittings

Mar 08, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

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Won't start after short trip like its vaper locked


STARTING / IDLING PROBLEMS / MISSING

Your problem may be one of the following:
First check or just replace the fuel filter. Usually located under the car in front of the rear axle, drivers side.
Next, the fuel pump may be worn out. Usually they just stop working (running).
Next, check the fuel pressure regulator. Usually located on the front fuel rail, drivers side.
Is the vacuum line attached? Not leaking or rotted?
Also, do you smell a strong fuel odor when it won't start? May be one or more stuck-open injectors, or the coil pack is bad.
Checking these in the order listed will more than likely fix your problem.
The clicking noise indicates the battery can no longer run the starter, which also means the fuel pump won't run either.

It could be a fuel issue. How old is the fuel filter? Can you hear the pump run for a few seconds when you turn the key on? Try turning the key to ON without trying to start engine three times waiting for the pump to stop running each time. Then try to start the engine. If it starts, Its a form of Vapor lock caused by the extreme heat we have had lately.

If none of this works, try a new fuel filter first. From there have someone check the fuel pressure regulator and then the pump. If you are in need of a new pump, take my word for it and spend the money to get one from FORD, and not from your favorite parts store. Most parts store parts are made in China and they are JUNK.

Have you hooked a scanner to the computer and checked the oxygen sensor(s)? If they are bad they could lean out the engine.

VAPOR LOCK
Check the following:
Cooling system working properly including fans.
Under hood fuel lines touching coolant or heater hoses.
Fuel lines under vehicle close to or not shielded from exhaust pipe, converter, muffler. Fuel lines pinched or crushed.
Fuel filter changed recently.
Fuel pump pressure.
Cheap(Bad) gas.

Aug 26, 2011 | 2003 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

I have a 93 Mercury Sable i have put a new fuel filter on it when it gets hot or when i drive it a long distance it shuts off and will not start again for at least 15 min, then i can get a bit farther down...


VAPOR LOCK
Check the following:
Cooling system working properly including fans.
Under hood fuel lines touching coolant or heater hoses.
Fuel lines under vehicle close to or not shielded from exhaust pipe, converter, muffler. Fuel lines pinched or crushed.
Fuel filter changed recently.
Fuel pump pressure.
Cheap(Bad) gas.


STARTING / IDLING PROBLEMS / MISSING

Your problem may be one of the following:
First check or just replace the fuel filter. Usually located under the car in front of the rear axle, drivers side.
Next, the fuel pump may be worn out. Usually they just stop working (running).
Next, check the fuel pressure regulator. Usually located on the front fuel rail, drivers side.
Is the vacuum line attached? Not leaking or rotted?
Also, do you smell a strong fuel odor when it won't start? May be one or more stuck-open injectors, or the coil pack is bad.
Checking these in the order listed will more than likely fix your problem.
The clicking noise indicates the battery can no longer run the starter, which also means the fuel pump won't run either.

It could be a fuel issue. How old is the fuel filter? Can you hear the pump run for a few seconds when you turn the key on? Try turning the key to ON without trying to start engine three times waiting for the pump to stop running each time. Then try to start the engine. If it starts, Its a form of Vapor lock caused by the extreme heat we have had lately.

If none of this works, try a new fuel filter first. From there have someone check the fuel pressure regulator and then the pump. If you are in need of a new pump, take my word for it and spend the money to get one from GM, and not from your favorite parts store. Most parts store parts are made in China and they are JUNK.

Have you hooked a scanner to the computer and checked the oxygen sensor(s)? If they are bad they could lean out the engine.

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Ford mondeo 2002 Zetec 2.0 motor ..Have a small or slow water leak comming from front of motor behind water pump area ,above air con unit, where water hose goes into the motor ..very hard to see where it's...


Starting from the top down dab every joint and seam with kitchen paper towel. Between each dab and press examine the kitchen towel for dampness. It is vital that you find out exactly where the leak is coming from. You could be lucky and the leak might be fixed buy an extra half turn on a jubilee connector on a hose union or a quarter turn on the water pump or thermostat housing bolts. If the leak persists you may require a new gasket . If the leak is from the water pump shaft seal behind pulley you will see a tell tale stain on the 'chin' of the pump body. This will require a replacement of the pump.

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1 Answer

I have the exact same problem with my HZJ75, have had injectors and pump reconditioned, checked glow pluga and pre-heater timer, all ok...yet still a struggle to start?? PLEASE CAN ANYONE HELP.


I thing you repaired old injection pump and injectors
Have you check the pressure from the pump can open the injectors?
I-loose the all injector main pipe from the injection pump only injectors side
2-try to crank the engine just start while engine moving if you see diesel pressure where you loose means injection pump looks good, try to fixed all the pipes while engine cranking if the engine refuse to star injectors needs to resit correct opening pressure.
3-check the injectors pressure follow instruction manual book.
4-Check is any leaks all connections.
5-Check engine compression.

good luck

Feb 04, 2010 | 2001 Toyota Land Cruiser

2 Answers

I have changed the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder, but still don't have pedal, we have bleed the lines and checked for leaks, no leaks were found. The new slave cylinder doesn't seem to be...


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If there is no pressure at the pipe thn its the clutch master cylinder.
Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

Power steering pump failure


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