Question about 1989 Ford Festiva

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89 festiva 2 barrel carb keeps idleing very high then droping very low only when in nutral and bucks and jumps letting off the gas with out riding the clutch any ideas???

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 125 Answers

SOURCE: engine rough idle cold. passes smog once temp reaches thermostat

you can take apart the top section and blow out the small passage that's bellow the throttle plate.

Posted on May 01, 2009

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  • 28 Answers

SOURCE: the idle goes high and low

there was a tsb on those for the neutral switch. it can cause all sorts of funky problems. usually you get a check eng. light with egr code and imrc code. can cause erattic idle, stalling, and alot of confusion. it is located behind a bracket under the transmission. you can check continuity wile putting the shifter in and out of gear. also there in a tsb on the clutch pedal switch that can do the same thing. you can look under the dash and make sure that the rubber stopper is completely engaging an diengaging the switch, and you can check continuity there as well. hope this helps you... dustang

Posted on May 13, 2009

delgriffith
  • 97 Answers

SOURCE: 89 chevy truck misses and dies on acceleration

try the mass air flow sensor

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

  • 25 Answers

SOURCE: Car will not stay on after jump start.

The battery is there to start the vehicle, once running the alternator takes over and provides the power for all electrical. It sounds like your alternator went out on you. Thats is where I would start. Hope this helps

Posted on Oct 21, 2009

Testimonial: "Thank you very much. I'll start there. "

  • 538 Answers

SOURCE: engine idles excesivly high after carb was rebuilt.

I sounds like the choke is not adjusted properly or the linkage for the fast idle cam is sticking. The fast idle cam is on the right side (passenger side) of the carb kind of behind the choke assembly. It could be the choke pull-off is not working or is not adjusted properly. Does the choke open all the way when the vehicle is fully warmed up? If not I'm guessing the choke stat (black plastic round) is not working or is installed wrong. Does that one have a wire going to the stat, is there 12V there when engine is running? That gets power direct from the alternator and will only have power there when the engine is running.

Posted on Dec 13, 2009

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If you check engine light is on the computer has a code to show what sensor is having issues or perhaps is broken.

If you can keep the car running by staying on the gas pedal its most likely a broken throttle position sensor or a broken idle air control.

Throttle position sensors *(TPS for short) are high wear since they are mechanically changing position everytime you move the gas pedal. The idle air control is less likely but still a possiblity.

Find an autoparts store that will read your on board diagnostic code *(called OBD 2 for short) for free and see if the code is something that just requires a new part.

TPS for a Nissan Maxima is 130-150 bucks! So doing this cheap is not going to be easy! The idle air control is over 200 bucks! Yipes!

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Common issue at the shop (i'm a ford technician), here is what I do to correct it.
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls at stops and low erratic idle speed and rough idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

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