Question about GMC Jimmy
QU40221 19 Spline Outer Axle Shaft for 1977 to 1991 Chevy, GMC Corporate GM 10 Bolt Front Axle is a genuine original equipment outer axle stub shaft for all GM 10 Bolt front axles in 1977 to 1991 Chevy Blazers, GMC Jimmys, and Suburbans, plus Chevy, GMC 4x4 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton Pickups. The splined end on these new axle shafts has three snap ring grooves in three places so they are compatible with all types of automatic and manual lockout hubs plus all full-time solid splined drive gears.
Also available while supplies last: QU40221U Used Outer Axle Shaft with 3 snap ring grooves and QU40660UUsed Inner Axle Shafts with 2 snap ring grooves (QU40660U is not compatible with automatic locking hubs)
see this vdio
Posted on Apr 01, 2015
Remove diff cover turn 3rd member until you see spider gear pin set screw, remove set screw pull pin push axle inward until c ring is visible remove c ring pull axle
Posted on Apr 01, 2015
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Remove the differential cover let fluid drain. While draining remove the tire on the side with the bad bearing. Remove the brake drum. remove the spider gears if it has a open diff. If not an open diff you will need to get a book at a parts house about $20. After removing spider gears remove the axle C-clip then pull the axle out. You will need a bearing seperator to remove the bearing. An oldschool trick for installing the new bearing with out a press is to stick the axle in a freezer for about 2 hours about 30 minutes before removing the axle put the bearing in an oven at 350 degrees (wear gloves when getting the bearing out) Quickly remove the axle and then remove the bearing and immediatly install the bearing it should drop onto the axle right where the old bearing was I like to take a puch and tat the inside of the bearing to make sure it has seated all the way.
Any questions please let me know
Have a great day
Posted on May 01, 2009
They should be replaceable w/o pulling the axle. Imagine a common nail; you have the shank of the nail with its point and the flat head on the other end. Your lug stud looks a little like that except the part that comes through the axle flange. It is a little larger than the threaded part and has "lateral lines" machined into it to grip inside the flange. Otherwise it would spin either way when you tried to tighten or remove it. To get the broken ones out, use a high quality flat end punch and a hammer to drive them backwards (toward the center of your differential) and eventually out of the flange. Look for the area that will give you the most room so they will not hit aything while they are backe out of the flange. The new studs can be installed in the reverse manner. When you get them just barely started through the flange, use your fingers to twist them back and forth to "feel" for the grooves where the old stud was seated. Once you get it barely started in the grooves, grease the threads, slip an old 1/2 inch drive socket over the new stud (make sure it doesn't fit tight) slip on a thick flat washer or 2--3 thin ones, turn your lug nut around backwards so the tapered end faces out and begin to tighten it. Go slow, make sure the new stud pulls through the flange evenly. Take the nut, washers and socket off every now and then and look at your progress. When the back side of the stud is seated on the back of the flange, you're finished. Now, always grease the studs. ALL OF THEM, EVERY WHEEL. The monkeys that put on tires these days use impact wrenches and if you just have to let them do it, grease will help you loosen the nut if you have to and it will help prevent future failures. A DRY stud and nut causes a twisting motion to take place in the body of the stud when its tightened. This leads to premature metal fatigue.
Posted on May 03, 2009
You will have to remove the differential cover on the rear end, in the center of the gear cluster you'll have to rotate your axle until it exposes the ends of the axle shafts, push in the axles as far as you can from the brake pad assembly area, then, there this a C clips that slips into a groove on the end of the axle, you'll have to reove the C clip to pull out the axle.
Posted on May 12, 2009
-Remove tire and brake drum
-put drain pan under axle housing
-remove rear axle housing cover (10 or 12 bolts)
-turn gear untiil the bolt for cross shaft shows and remov e the bolt
-remove the cross shaft.
-push axle in until you can remove "U" clip from axle and axle will pull out,
Remove seal, you need a pulller to remove axle brg.
Posted on Jul 26, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Jul 19, 2014 | 1998 GMC Jimmy
Apr 10, 2011 | GMC S-15 Cars & Trucks
Mar 30, 2011 | 1998 GMC Jimmy
Dec 21, 2010 | 2000 GMC Jimmy
Mar 14, 2010 | 2000 GMC Jimmy
Nov 21, 2009 | 2000 GMC Jimmy
Apr 25, 2009 | 1996 GMC Jimmy
Nov 05, 2008 | 1998 GMC Jimmy
Sep 19, 2017 | GMC Cars & Trucks
235 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: