Question about Evan Cars & Trucks
Uh oh, did they properly torqued down the pressure plate? they have to check the fork-throwout bearing area, which requires dis-assembly :(
possible pivot ball broke at the fork
Posted on Apr 01, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Vibrations are caused by engine components, they can also be caused by piston slap, excessive valve lash, excessive bearing clearances, deformation of parts under stress, crankshaft and camshaft deformations. Also problems with axel and wheel bearings can cause abnormal vibration. If you detect an abnormal vibration in your vehicle consult immediately a mechanic, the safety of the vehicle may be compromised.
Posted on Jul 24, 2008
The clutch bearing is supposed to have a groove on the inside where it slides on the shaft That groove is supposed to have a heavy grease applied to it to prevent the bearing running dry on the collar it slides on.Regardless of your driving style, that grease is intended to remain there for the life of the clutch, (generally every clutch I have ever replaced still had some remaining lube there unless the bearing itself failed from a material defect which caused it to overheat and cause that grease to then run out of the retaining groove) I'm not there and can't see the old parts, but in my opinion the first clutch may have failed partially because of your lack of skill in using a stick shift vehicle but the second failure obviously is not your fault if the information you have posted is correct.
Posted on Apr 17, 2009
If it's hard to get into gear you should check the clutch is disengaging properly.
Before changing the clutch plate, check that the clutch throw-out is adjusted correctly and the actuating hydraulics/levers have the correct amount of travel.
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
SOURCE: New clutch won't work.
I too have a 2003 Ranger and am on my second clutch, master clyinder and slave cylinder at 90k miles. Assuming all parts are installed correctly I would check the slave cylinder next to the master in engine compartment--it is the small plastic resevoir. Don't bother trying to bleed as you are wasting your time. Remove rubber boot after removing cap and you will probably find a lack of fluid or dirt in bottom. It has a one way valve and once you **** in dirt and air it's all over. It comes primed with fluid from the factory--I belive the part is made in France. Also when you remove you will have to break plastic washer under dash which is worth about $.02, but Ford charges around $30--it connects linkage with master cylinder. Replace master and the washer and you will probably have clutch pedal and be able to engage gears.
Posted on Dec 22, 2009
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