Have changed the fuel filters that may also cause low fuel pressure.
Your charcoal canister may be full. It's a black box (usually taller than wide) with hoses and possible wire running to it mounted under the vehicle near the fuel tank or under hood. It captures fuel vapors and sends them to the engine to be burnt. Check for codes too, YouTube or Google can tell you how to distract codes using your ignition key.
SOURCE: I have a 1996 dodge neon the car starts for about
check power distribution center.if ok you have a faulty ignition component.
SOURCE: mercedes c200 elegance 1996 model mis-firing on cylinders 1-4
I beleive your firing order is 1 3 4 2. 1 and 4 are companion cylinders-meaning the piston is up or down at the same time i.e. compression and exhaust stroke both pistons are up and even on the exhaust stroke the ignition fires in order to burn unburnt fuel/ h ve you checked your trigger. There is a good coil testing tool that is placed over the coil and has a magnetic pickup that allows you to see if the coil is being triggered-just because you have power doesn't mean that you will have spark. I would replace your ignition wires and look at your wiring harness very carefully- if it is very brittle and you see bare wires exposed that is your most likley problem because the trigger is working for 1 and 3 and has the crank senser input for all for spark plugs and the cam senser is used for ignition advance and your fuel injection system. try wiggling your harness and see if your coils start to work. wireharnesses are a major problem on mercedes benz vehicles of that era. I hope I have been helpful
SOURCE: 2001 tiburon has no spark. replaced coil pack and
You have crank sensor problem . No signal to computer if no signal to computer no ejector pause
SOURCE: 99 dodge caravan #4 cylinder misfires, i replaced
This is a known dodge issue replce the injector!!!!! done deal
SOURCE: 2005 dodge grand caravan 3.8L
Ouch! A case of the raucous rodent! I've been there...Not fun trying to track down and repair all the damage.
First of all, let me explain how the code sets: The computer monitors the PRIMARY side of the coil to determine the burn time on the SECONDARY side of the coil. This can be a little confusing. The code will set when the computer determines that secondary ionization (burn time) was too short, too long, or did not occur at all.
If you have confirmed that there is no spark at the spark plug wires, then that is why the code is setting...ionization is not occurring at all. What can be a little confusing is that this can be caused by a failure in the PRIMARY coil circuit even though the code is indicating that the computer is having a problem with the SECONDARY circuit. (The secondary circuit can malfunction even though the primary side is functioning perfectly, but if the primary side malfunctions, the secondary side ALSO malfunctions - it is impossible for the secondary side to work if the primary side is not working.)
So, I said all that to tell you this: I think you have pretty much eliminated the entire secondary side of the ignition by replacing the whole circuit. So the problem must be on the primary side. (Probably more chewed wires)
There are 4 wires going to your ignition coil. The BROWN/WHITE wire comes from the ASD RElay and supplies battery voltage to the coil assembly. Since the other four cylinders are firing, This wire has to be OK.
The code you are getting is for coil #2. This coil is controlled by computer through the DARK BLUE/TAN wire. If you disconnect your coil connector and probe this wire with a test light connected to the POSITIVE battery post, it should "blink" when to crank the engine over. My guess is that it will not be blinking. You can do this also on the BROWN/ORANGE (coil #1) wire and the DARK BLUE/DARK GREEN (coil #3) wire to see the difference.
Anyway, if the DARK BLUE/TAN wire does not blink, then the wire is broken (chewed?) between the coil and the PCM.
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