Question about Ford F-150
If the Bendix does not disengage, either the bendix has a broken return spring, or the clearance between the gears is too tight. On chevys, shims are used to set the clearance. Not sure on Fords.
Posted on May 18, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
engine crank thrusts worn and crank moved back enough to not engage ,with a manual the clutch would push it forewards.or the flex plate on the back of the torque converter damaged and broke in teh centre where bolts to the crank
Posted on Dec 27, 2008
Sounds like drive is sticking again. Sometimes if you can remove an inspection cover & spray drive area with white lithium grease it will help, but not 100% if that's possible on your particular vehicle. Did you happen to double check alignment of starter? Sometimes too many shims, or maybe one added in right place will stop binding against flywheel to allow for better engagement.
Posted on Mar 07, 2009
Hello, I would make sure that your car is not one of those half year cars becuase two differn't starters may be offered for the same year of car. Also, I would check and see if your battery has enough CCA's to power your system. The only other thing is to turn your crankshaft with a breaker bar to turn your flywheel to possibly get a fresh area of teeth on it. If none of this fails it's as simple as just replacing the flywheel. If you did a bench test on the starter and the bendix engaged that is good. Buying parts from an Auto parts store does not gurantee the part is good and that the bendix engages the full distance to turn the flywheel. I would try to find a mechanic who rebuilds starters to make sure that the bendix is engaging fully. I hope this helps you!
Posted on May 20, 2009
I have provided an image that will assist you and it will connect like so;
1. Connection 1 should have the Pos. (+) battery cable and all of the wires with the large eyelet connectors from the wiring harness connected to it, except for the large cable that runs down to the starter.
2. Connection 2 should only have the large cable going down to the starter connected to it, and there should be no other wire connected there.
3. Connection 3 is the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid, and it is the wire with the small push on connector that is hot only when the key is in the "start" position, usually it is a red wire with a blue stripe, but that is not always the case.
4. Connection 4 is the "I" connection on the starter solenoid and it feeds current back into the ignition, and it is not used on a lot of vehicles after 1981, but if your vehicle has it it will be a small push on connector that will not have any power from it at all, and it will usually be a black wire with a white stripe, but that is not always so.
Posted on Jul 10, 2010
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