Question about Toyota Corolla
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: how to set timing on
First the timing is easier to set with that big metal thing removed on the side of the engine. Next I set the No# 1 cylinder to TDC. If you remove the cap to the distributor it helps. They are 8mm bolts three of them.
Pull the plug and insert a platstic straw in the No 1 cylinder When it stops going completly up its at TDC I set it to 10 degrees BTDC by watching the marks on the front cranshaft pulley Never turn the engine backwards the timing belt cold come off. Sometimes its easier to remove the other plugs and turn it by hand.
Next remove the distributor Yes completly, not just the cap. Look at the 4 poles or tabs on the shaft inside the distributor and notice how they align up to the stationary pick up pole inside the distributor as the rotor shaft rotates. Put the rotor part on the shaft, and mark the spot when the rotor is pointing to the No1 spark plug wire position as it passes one of these poles This is your new timing mark.
Now put the distributor back in so the rotor is pointing to the No 1 postion or this mark. You now have a timing of 10 degrees BTDC or where ever the crank was set.
Tip: As the distributor goes in it will turn one way as it engages the gear So yu must lead the mark when you go to put the ditributor in by turning the shaft off your mark.
The distributor will rotate too, so you can align the timing mark you made on the distributor to the rotor shaft. I use white paint applied with a small touch up brush for my mark.
Also your mount bolt should fit in the slot cut in the bottom of the distributor to tighten it in place.
Posted on May 27, 2009
You need an aftermarket serviice manual from Haynes or Chilton.
They will have that kind of info.
I know of no car (I don't know them all) where that is needed and depending on the cover material (sheet steel or cast), could lead to warping and new leaks. I always use a thin film of silicone whether it is specified or not and there are torque specs for ALL valve covers I have ever seen.
Posted on Sep 13, 2008
This engine utilizes shims to set proper clearances, you will need a micrometer, valve clearance adjustment tool set for shimmed lifters,small magnetic arm, appropriate shim selecting charts (manufacturer will have this if you can get the nec. measurements).
Measure thickness of shims removed (using micrometer) and use this formula where T=Thickness of old shim; A=Valve clearance measured; N=Thickness of new shim required.
Intake valves: N = T + (A - 0.02 mm (0.008 in.)) Exh. valves: N = T + (A - 0.25 mm (0.010 in.))
Then you need to find shims as close as possible to the calculated values.
Valve clearances (cold) are as follows: Intake 0.15 - 0.25 mm (0.006 - 0.010 in.) Exhaust 0.20 - 0.30 mm (0.008 - 0.012 in.)
Note, if you are not familiar with precision measuring using a micrometer, this may be better left to a trained tech. These are high revving little power plants and you don't want a problem at 8K rpm.
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
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