Question about 1990 Audi 80
Hi there, I've just bought a 1990 Audi 80, 1.8S, typ 89 / B3 as a mechanical project for my boys. When I bought it the SOHC camshaft was seized, stripping the cam belt teeth. I removed it and cleaned up the bearing surfaces, and was relieved when compression and suction were happening evenly on all cylinders when turned over with no cam. Setting up the cam timing is a mystery though. Setting flywheel to TDC the zero mark and the dot on the auxiliary shaft sprocket lining up with the notch on the crankshaft pulley, distributor rotor points to #1 Spark plug lead, all good. But it's the cam gear that bothers me. There is a dot on the front side of the sprocket, and a notch further round on the back side. Whichever one of these I line up with the O.T. arrow on the top plastic belt cover the valves look wrong. I'd expect the #1 cylinder valves to be closed for the ignition at TDC, but the intake valve is down. also which sprocket mark is the correct one, and why do they put 2 on there? I removed the sprocket to check it hasn't spun on the cam shaft but the key is all good. Can anyone demystify me please? Thanks a million!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Timing belt
I believe the 2.7T is set up the same as the 2.8 engine in the A4. In this car (which I own), to do the timing service, cylinder #3 needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke - it's the key cylinder, rather than #1. This is the rear cylinder on the passenger bank. Looking from above, with the nose of the car at the bottom, the arrangement is:
On the 2.8 (again, I am about 95% sure the 2.7T is the same), there are ovoid-shaped brackets witht different-sized holes in them on the exhaust cam pulleys, meant for mounting a cam locking tool (which is unnecessary). When the engine is rotated so that those brackets are horizontal, with the larger holes to the inside, and the smaller holes to the outside, you are at TDC on cylinder #3.
It's almost academic though - as I found when doing timing belt jobs on the 2.8, the cam lock tool is unneeded, since the cams will not spin when the belt comes off, and there are no indexing marks on the timing belt itself - all the positioning that you need to do is to rotate the engine (use a 24mm socket on the crank bolt), so that the oval exhaust cam brackets are horizontal with the larger of the two holes in each positioned toward the center of the engine. From there, you're good to go.
As a side note, when you put it back together, put the timing tensioner on first, then loop the timing belt over the crank sprocket, up over the idler, and over the driver's side cam first, holding tension on the belt and pulling it tight as you do so. Then go under the large center top pulley, around the passenger exhaust cam sprocket (again, pulling tightly so you don't end up with slack in the belt), and then you'll be able to slide it up over the tensioner (someone needs to be pulling the tensioner so that it allows a little play in the belt as it goes on - once the belt is in place, release the tensioner and it'll snug the belt perfectly).
When it's on fully, note the position of the exhaust cam brackets, and rotate the engine with the socket on the crank, two full rotations. Make sure you don't have any background noise (ie, radio, talking people, etc) while you do this. This will rotate the cams once, and you can stop when the brackets reach the position they were in intially. What you're doing is taking the engine through one full revolution by hand, listening for any valve-piston clearance problems. If you don't hear anything make contact inside the engine when you do this, then you're in good shape to put the car back together again.
Posted on Oct 25, 2008
slide a straw or a pen into the plug hole and slowly rotate crank pully back and forward and note the rise and fall of the straw this will indicate TDC . once TDC is achieved note the mark on the pully should be alighn with a mark on the timming case .rotor button to number one lead will have you on compression stroke .cheers MAL
Posted on Mar 05, 2009
You must find the cam lock bar and crank lock pin to do this job properly, otherwise you can bend some valves and that becomes expensive..the front crank damper has a mark to line up with a mark on the timing cover for #1 TDC, but the cam lock bar is what aligns the cams into position. The crank lock pin is helpful but not 100% necessary...
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
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Get Ford timing tool kit, part = otc-6488 (For about $119 USD on eBay)
4 timing chains (3 front including the optional balance shaft chain + 1 back)
2 cam guides (1 front + 1 back)
2 oil tensioners (1 front + 1 back)
1 jackshaft tensioner (1 front)
1 jackshaft guide/cassette (1 front)
1 balance shaft tensioner (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)
1 balance shaft guide (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)
new sprockets + bolts + gaskets etc.
new spark plugs + throttle body cleaner + lithium grease spray + oil change
of these parts (the front stuff) can be obtained as a primary timing
chain rattle noise kit Part# = 2u3e-6d256-** ab for 4*4 & bb for
The kits also have later part numbers for us$ 76 @ http://www.fordpartsonline.com
My parts order (without the balance shaft stuff) was:
$76.04 KIT-TENSIONER TIMING 2u3e-6d256-ab
$47.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Timing chain, TIMING CHAIN, Explorer, Mountaineer, Rear - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$57.36 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Chain guide, CHAIN GUIDE, Explorer, Mountaineer, Jackshaft To Cam - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$103.22 Engine, Overhaul gasket set, OVERHAUL GASKET SET, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper (Valve Grind) - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$28.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Tensioner, TENSIONER, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
worth mentioning that this procedure is not enjoyable at all and
should be undertaken with at least 8 full days to completion (I recon
you could do it in half the time the second time).
It is basically on entire engine re-build with both heads off and the engine out of the vehicle.
is not possible to do the rear chain or sprocket with the engine in
the car as the flywheel needs to come off + at least 1 head, but it is
possible to do the front primary chain and or front cam chain with the
engine in the car.
will be a ford exploder and timing expert after you do this - the main
reason should be the love of your American built vehicle. Its a solid
car - except for the plastic guides!
Note: This is how i successfully did the job, but i am not a ford
mechanic and don't hold me responsible if this does not work for you.
Small Sprocket on the crank turns a larger (2 to 1 ratio) jackshaft
sprocket that is in turn connected front & back to the 2 camshafts.
Thus a 360o turn of the crank will turn both the camshafts 180o.
Firing order is 1-4 2-5 3-6, Right side numbers 1,2,3. Left Side = 4,5,6.
At TDC pistons 1 & 5 are fully raised, thus 1 is about to spark & 5 is evacuated.
engine will turn freely (no piston to valve contact) with the cams
180o out, it will even run (roughly) with 1 out 180o, any other
settings may cause major damage to the valves.
2 cam shafts come with timing markings, "yes" real timing marks that
anyone can use (even without special tools) to ensure correct timing.
The way to time it is to ensure both the off centre cam shaft slits are level/flat with the head.
the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off centre slot in
the same position either up and level or down and level.
is super critical that both the camshafts are 100% in sink with each
other, i.e. not a few degrees off, the engine computer can compensate
for crank timing but not engineering failure.
warned the camshafts can turn easily fast & hard by themselves as a
few springs are compressed at TDC, I got my finger jammed and its
still healing + if the engine is not at TDC you may damage a valve.
heres the hard thing that you will need special tools for - if you
need to change the timing, you will need to be able to undo the cam
sprocket bolt on both cams & these are done up real tight.
is a tool that you attach that has 2 pencil thick shafts that fit into
the sprocket and prevent it from turning - then you need to put about
90Nm of force on the bolt (remember the rear one if LHT)
the $money$, its well worth getting yourself the tool kit - it will
save you hours in the long run. Search eBay for otc-6488 should be US
$119 - then sell them again for say $100.
is also a tool version of the oil tensioner in the kit that screws
right in and puts the correct amount of force on the chain + guide, to
enable you to do up the cam bolt with the chain and sprocket in the
right spot on the cam.
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