Question about 1990 Audi 80
Hi there, I've just bought a 1990 Audi 80, 1.8S, typ 89 / B3 as a mechanical project for my boys. When I bought it the SOHC camshaft was seized, stripping the cam belt teeth. I removed it and cleaned up the bearing surfaces, and was relieved when compression and suction were happening evenly on all cylinders when turned over with no cam. Setting up the cam timing is a mystery though. Setting flywheel to TDC the zero mark and the dot on the auxiliary shaft sprocket lining up with the notch on the crankshaft pulley, distributor rotor points to #1 Spark plug lead, all good. But it's the cam gear that bothers me. There is a dot on the front side of the sprocket, and a notch further round on the back side. Whichever one of these I line up with the O.T. arrow on the top plastic belt cover the valves look wrong. I'd expect the #1 cylinder valves to be closed for the ignition at TDC, but the intake valve is down. also which sprocket mark is the correct one, and why do they put 2 on there? I removed the sprocket to check it hasn't spun on the cam shaft but the key is all good. Can anyone demystify me please? Thanks a million!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Timing belt
I believe the 2.7T is set up the same as the 2.8 engine in the A4. In this car (which I own), to do the timing service, cylinder #3 needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke - it's the key cylinder, rather than #1. This is the rear cylinder on the passenger bank. Looking from above, with the nose of the car at the bottom, the arrangement is:
On the 2.8 (again, I am about 95% sure the 2.7T is the same), there are ovoid-shaped brackets witht different-sized holes in them on the exhaust cam pulleys, meant for mounting a cam locking tool (which is unnecessary). When the engine is rotated so that those brackets are horizontal, with the larger holes to the inside, and the smaller holes to the outside, you are at TDC on cylinder #3.
It's almost academic though - as I found when doing timing belt jobs on the 2.8, the cam lock tool is unneeded, since the cams will not spin when the belt comes off, and there are no indexing marks on the timing belt itself - all the positioning that you need to do is to rotate the engine (use a 24mm socket on the crank bolt), so that the oval exhaust cam brackets are horizontal with the larger of the two holes in each positioned toward the center of the engine. From there, you're good to go.
As a side note, when you put it back together, put the timing tensioner on first, then loop the timing belt over the crank sprocket, up over the idler, and over the driver's side cam first, holding tension on the belt and pulling it tight as you do so. Then go under the large center top pulley, around the passenger exhaust cam sprocket (again, pulling tightly so you don't end up with slack in the belt), and then you'll be able to slide it up over the tensioner (someone needs to be pulling the tensioner so that it allows a little play in the belt as it goes on - once the belt is in place, release the tensioner and it'll snug the belt perfectly).
When it's on fully, note the position of the exhaust cam brackets, and rotate the engine with the socket on the crank, two full rotations. Make sure you don't have any background noise (ie, radio, talking people, etc) while you do this. This will rotate the cams once, and you can stop when the brackets reach the position they were in intially. What you're doing is taking the engine through one full revolution by hand, listening for any valve-piston clearance problems. If you don't hear anything make contact inside the engine when you do this, then you're in good shape to put the car back together again.
Posted on Oct 25, 2008
slide a straw or a pen into the plug hole and slowly rotate crank pully back and forward and note the rise and fall of the straw this will indicate TDC . once TDC is achieved note the mark on the pully should be alighn with a mark on the timming case .rotor button to number one lead will have you on compression stroke .cheers MAL
Posted on Mar 05, 2009
You must find the cam lock bar and crank lock pin to do this job properly, otherwise you can bend some valves and that becomes expensive..the front crank damper has a mark to line up with a mark on the timing cover for #1 TDC, but the cam lock bar is what aligns the cams into position. The crank lock pin is helpful but not 100% necessary...
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
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