Question about Jeep Cherokee
Call your local parts store in your area see if they have a diagnostic tool that you can troubleshoot the jeep, it a trilingual code reader just plug it in and turn the key and both computers talk and gives you a code number and or tell you what part are faulty. if the auto part does not have the tool than you can purchase at harbor freight . com for about 50.00 and 4.95 fed ex, now i can give you list to start looking.
check your battery for proper charge, than check all electrical connection, make sure every thing is tight, no corrosion, check for a spark, you will need help with that wear a glove remove one spark plug wire have someone crank the car not start it place the plug wire to the metal frame or ground, looking for a spark, if you got a stark, you need a volt meter check the voltage, dis connect the battery cable to check the coil, go to www.youtube.com/testing_coil_jeep
check to see if you are getting gas, you would have to know where the fuel line is, loosen fuel line closest to fuel input to the carburetor fuel should squirt out around the loosen line of the fuel.
if got spark, fuel, good coil, good voltage, and no loose wires, or and no corrosion on the battery, it mite be distributor cap, not a proper ground.
Posted on Mar 30, 2015
Which engine the 4.0L never post with out that (enginequestions)
IS the SKIM light out , cranking? (immoblizer) that be 1st. glance.
in the cluster is such a lamp. see that?
the modern jeep with EFI has a thing called ASD.
it's a relay, and it must close, cranking, and not drop out
running, or it will cut all EFI functions. (spark and fuel., by Design)
its a safety device, (prevents crash and burn as seen on TV)
and by LAW here, in usa.
or is Theft detection. (rule 7)
cranks robustly, and no start.? clear as day symptom (thanks)
as always check fuses first... its electrical, all this ,... so...
so we connect scan tool and see those 8 errors, for ASD drop out?
90% that, (unless spark, is dead on the HV side) (HV is high voltage at the coil plack outputs)
so get DTC errors? if so what are they?
i can fail to start for 50 reasons,
1: bad engine, (nah, we cross fingers )
2: bad spark, (ever do a tune up this decade?)
3: bad fueling.? (lost pressure or too much,flooding engine)
4: ASD sees one of 8 failures and cuts #2 and #3 for sure.
no tools, no scan tool, just a DMM (a volt meter?) surely you have a volt meter, doing DIY< is a MUST.
i use a meter at ASD relay coil, (across its 2 pins)
12vdc cranking (means it's energized)
if it drops to 0v cranking? that means the PCM cut it !
it did so on PURPOSE, and the scan tool always tells you why.
buy one, find one, rent one, barrow one, or find mech with one.
cant fix cars today with no scan tool ,it's not going to happen.
this tool works,.
this only takes 15min work, in most cases.
(finding cause) (good engine)
there are more causes, im not doing the 50 list. sorry.
or doing as best post ever this forum.
50 years experience in 10sec.
Posted on Mar 31, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Had the same problem, what worked for me was changing the crankshaft position. Here are a couple other suggestions, camshaft position sensor, fuel pump, clogged fuel injectors, fuel filter...... Good Luck
Posted on Aug 04, 2008
Will it try to start if you spray some carb cleaner in the throttle body? If so you need to check fuel pressure and if low, power to the fuel pump while cranking, the gauge not working could be a seperate issue. Could it be that the car is out of gas since the gauge doesn't work? Just asking. If so you may just need a sending unit. If you end up needing a fuel pump, you'll get a sender with it. I've never seen a sender and a pump go out at the exact same time, the use two different circuit's. The ECM really doesn't have any thing to do with the fuel gauge on this car.
Posted on Oct 18, 2008
Your dealership can read the codes entered into your car's computer every time it malfunctions. Same problem as yours, however, also gets worse, back up lights won't work, sticks in park (in the gas stationing) (very embarrassing), will only run with foot on gas, etc. It was the "neutral safety switch". $500 fix but runs and starts perfectly all the time.
Posted on Jan 15, 2010
Lock and unlock both run off the same power supply...I'd be looking for a bad switch or a broken wire in the door harness where the wires go through the rubber boot between the door and pillar.
Posted on Feb 08, 2010
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