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Heater fan works, but no heat comes out the vents.

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  • MatchstalkMan
    MatchstalkMan Mar 30, 2015

    Hi Steve Lee, I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box? What make, model and year of vehicle do you own? Thanks!

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3 Answers

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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When car is at operating temp, raise hood and feel the heater hoses. are they very warm or not?

Posted on Mar 30, 2015

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  • Expert
  • 249 Answers

My sister's car had this problem. It's either a stuck vent valve in behind the dashboard. or the heater matrix is clogged.

If the vent valve is stuck, the lever you push from C to H or blue to red to control temp should not move. If the lever moves too easily, this may indicate that the arm controlling the vent valve has broken.

If it's an A/C system, you system may need charged again.

In my sister's case, it was the heater matrix.

Without knowing more about your vehicle, I cannot help you with the details. However, if you feel that the job is too much to take on, then find a local mechanic and ask for an estimate.

This is what I did to fix the problem my sister had.

Following the safety guides in the Haynes manual for her car: -

  • I poured a radiator/cooling system cleaner into the expansion tank and ran the car up to temperature as per the manufacturers instructions.
  • I allowed it to run for a further 20 minutes to make sure the thermostat had opened and the cleaning solution had made its way around the entire engine.
  • I parked the car on a flat road with a slight angle so that the flush out would run to the lowest point at the front of the car.
  • I switched off the engine and allowed it to get cold - about 3 hours.
  • I separated the matrix from the inlet and outlet hoses.
  • Using a garden hose, I ran water through the matrix through the inlet, then through the outlet and through the inlet a second time until the water ran clear. A lot of sludge and rusty water came out.
  • I released the bottom hose on the radiator and allowed the coolant and rusty water to leave the system.
  • I released the top hose to the radiator and flushed it out with clean water. I removed the thermostat housing and thermostatic valve and flushed clean water into the engine cooling chambers.
  • When the water ran completely clear from the bottom of the engine, I reconnected all of the hoses and housings which I had disconnected. I also replaced the thermostatic valve and housing.
  • I disconnected the temperature sender unit from the radiator and cleaned the surface with a fine metal polish to get rid of the build up of rusty deposits.
  • I reconnected the temperature sender unit.
  • I refilled the cooling system with the correct ratio of water to coolant/antifreeze for our climate.
  • I opened the bleed valve on the engine coupling and some air came out. The level of fluid in the expansion tank dropped and I topped it up again.
  • When I was happy the fluid level was remaining stable, I started the engine and allowed it to warm up for fifteen minutes.
  • I checked the fluid level in the expansion tank and topped it off with a little fluid.
  • I ran the car under load (test drive) for another ten minutes and checked the level again.
  • I opened the vent valve in the passenger cabin to full and waited until the heat was unbearable (this was done in the summer), then I closed the vent valve to about 1/3 way from COLD and it was pleasantly warm.
  • I gave my sister instructions to check the level the next morning - she had to park it on flat ground - and top up if necessary.
  • She had no more trouble with the heating.
This process took about 10 hours in total. But I was being very careful and I also got to check other aspects of the engine such as oil level, brake fluid level, washer fluid level for the windshield, etc.

Posted on Mar 30, 2015

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  • Cars & Trucks Expert
  • 213 Answers

Hello, This could be a number of different things depending on the year make and model of your vehicle. Could be blend door or actuator, vacuum/air leak, climate control, blower motor relay, blower motor resistor etc. Please provide more information so we can help you further. Thank you -Tim

Posted on Mar 30, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2000 Ford Taurus-- Heater not working.

heater valve to let the coolant into the heater core is not working the heater cluster in your dash that controls the heat might be bad. it also controls the fan and air conditioner

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: heater fan not working

blower motor relay is what it sounds like. If you change fan speeds does it start to run or is it dead?If it is dead it is either blower motor relay or fan motor. it is not very often that these things go out but whenthey do it is usually without warning.

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 76649 Answers

SOURCE: heater/ac fan

Test the blower motor by jumping 12 volts to the blower motor connector, if it works you have a defective blower motor speed control resistor which is located just next to the blower motor, i recommend u replace both as the blower motor ages it draws more current and this causes the resistor fail, u should be able to buy these parts in the aftermarket, the dealer parts will be very expensive.

The blower motor is behind the glove box. Remove the glove box (3screws, 1 on the left side and 2on the bottom). Remove the glove box lower frame (4 screws). The blower motor assembly will be on the right hand side under the dash

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

  • 460 Answers

SOURCE: I replaced heater core in 1999 gmc sierra 1500 5.3

no,, the system works from a vacuum and has to be worked on in a service garage. sorry about the bad news...

Posted on Nov 12, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: i have 98 dodge 1500, with heater problems. my

I have a 1998 dodge ram & sometimes my temp cable comes off behind the glovebox it has done it 3 times.

Posted on Jan 03, 2010

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