Question about Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Took my truck on the mountain was just riding over and hit a mud puddle (thinking it wasn't bad) next thing i know my whole front end is in the water, water is all in the truck and everywhere. I was stuck and the truck died. 45 mins later someone came an pulled me out. My problem is my truck will not crank it wants to, tried jumper cables, changed the DT cap and the rotor button still same thing it turns over but will not crank i dried the air filter and changed the oil (was full of water) please help?

Posted by Anonymous on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 2,210 Answers

Have you removed the plugs and dried the top end. It takes more than a cursory wipe down to get a truly flooded engine restarted. There's water in every electrical plug switch fuse relay etc. If it got into the intake manifold there could be other problems. If it was immersed as long as you say then a strip and rebuild may be on the cards. Basically, you are going to need knowledgeable help to get things going again.
Next time out use the old adage, look before you leap. If you see other tyre tracks skirting the hazard don't go for the middle.

Posted on Mar 30, 2015

Ad

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

There is a roaring sound from under the front end on my '97 mercury mountaineer all wheel drive


there may be sticking of mud on the brake pads, try to clean with water pressure, if not the check your bearings.

Apr 01, 2014 | 1997 Mercury Mountaineer

1 Answer

Mercury sable leaking water


This is not necessarily a bad thing. It is a quantitative thing. Excessive water vapor is bad. Normal condensation is unavoidable.

If the exhaust is sweet smelling and the vapor forms clouds then there is a problem. If both puddles are about the size of coffee cup saucers it should be normal.

Mar 23, 2014 | 1999 Mercury Sable

2 Answers

When I start slowing down the front tires start shaking after I apply the break. What is causing that ?


You have one or two warped front brake rotors.
Many things can cause warped rotors. Here are a few.
1) Braking quite a bit, causing the rotors to heat up, and then going through a mud puddle or water which will cause rapid cooling of the disc.
2) Rotors made in China, which sometimes will warp prematurely.
3) Rotors that have been "surfaced" (ground down) during a brake job beyond their recommended thickness.
4) Bad luck. ( re: Heaven knows)

3 Cures. (You ain't gonna believe this!)
a) Take the offending rotors off and hit them with a sledge hammer. This worked for me once. ( You frighten them to death.)
b) Take the car or rotors to a shop and see if they can "turn" them on a machine to true them up. This is the same machine that is used to "grind them down".
c) Replace them. I recommend no Chinese. (See above)

Jan 09, 2013 | 2001 Audi A6

1 Answer

Dealer Ruined my Air Ride and wont admit it.


The Dealer did what ever they did for a reason

The repairs needed to be done & you authorize them

If you requested non ford oem parts,I would think the
dealer discussed the result with you

Obviously the dealer gave you the car back when they
knew it wasn't working correctly

I can not say I ever heard of that

I know they send you one your way &
don't fix much or charge a lot,but you
need them to resolve the issues at their
expense

I barely know what your taking about

They disconnected some of the factory
air ride systems knowing it would do just
what it is doing or someone went home sick
& thing went from bad to give them the car
back & don't care

Sep 11, 2012 | 1997 Lincoln Continental

1 Answer

When going down a mountain and hitting the brakes to slow down, the steering wheel shakes back and forth. I had the front end aligned, wheels balanced, and new front tires.


Sounds like warped rotors, If you hit a large puddle of water with hot rotors this
can happen or if you use excessive brake. Best to have the rotors turned and new
pads installed. (I use organic pads to reduce rotor wear but many shops do not
like to use them) The organic pads are softer and wear out sooner but you really want
to have the brake system serviced annually under ideal circumstances.
Hope this is useful.

Mar 27, 2011 | 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt

3 Answers

The front end shakes bad at 40 miles per hour on my 1993 ford f-350 crew cab 4x4


You may need your steering realigned, also, make sure you have your wheels bolted on straight. If those clear, get your spindles checked, along with your shocks.

Mar 18, 2010 | 1993 Ford F350

2 Answers

Engine won't turn over!


sounds like you may have hydrauliced the motor when you filled it up with water, something bent like a connecting rod or maybe even abroken crankshaft, seen it many times....please rate my help.. thanks

Aug 05, 2009 | 2005 Dodge Magnum

4 Answers

04 Dodge 2500 4X4 shakes violently after hitting bump at 55 mph +


The bumps do initiate the shaking. When my 2006 Ram 2500 4x4 started shaking, I had just had it aligned that morning. A month or so before that alignment, my passenger side outer tie-rod broke while driving down a rock road. I replaced it with a heavy duty MOOG tie-rod end. Anyway, the same day I had it aligned I was driving back home from a job and towing my bobcat behind me. I hit a bump and the truck did the "death wobble" with the front end shaking violently up and down in an alternating fashion (one tire in the air while one tire on the ground and then vice-versa). I changed the tires first (which were worn-out 305/75/17 mud tires). Since the day I bought the truck new in Jan. 2006, I've had larger tires on the truck than the tiny 235/75/17s that came with it and I've done a lot of heavy towing with it and never had a problem until this alignment was done at Sears. I;m still trying to figure out if it was the alignment specs that they used or if the problem coincidentally started that same day. I also changed the steering stabilizer. Neither the new tires nor the stabilizer/damper helped the problem. So I changed the other outer tie-rod end and the upper and lower ball joints (all MOOG with grease fittings). I turns out they were worn out. So, the truck no longer shakes violently up and down when I hit a bump. That problem seems to be in check. However, now when I hit a bump the truck's front end wobbles side-to-side. I can do a few things to recover from it. I can hit the brakes pretty hard and sudden (which can cause an accident on the interstate), or I can **** the steering wheel side-to-side a few times (from 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock) and that stops it immediately...until the next bump in the road. Also, if I let my foot off the accelerator just before hitting a bump and let the truck coast over it instead of power through it, sometimes the truck will ride over the bump without incident. I found out yesterday on a 5 1/2 hour road trip that if I did 80 to 90 miles per hour and powered through every road blemish, the truck rode fine...no shaking at all. I suppose the high speed forces the tires to stay straight when they hit a bump. Lastly, to confuse my problem solving attempts further, sometimes the truck rides like a cadillac (for an hour or so) at regular speeds and no matter what bumps I hit. Then without worning, the front end will loosen up and get that sloppy feeling again and the wobbling comes back at every bump...until the next time it feels like tightening up and driving right again. I have no idea what to do now. I'm going back to Sears today to have them check their alignment. Other than that, all I can think of is to change the rest of the steering components and check the steering box for malfunction. I hope someone can help all of us Dodge owners out off of the road tested info that I've just provided. Dodge doesn't seem to care to address the problems with their trucks front ends, and we need a solution before people get hurt or die. I was almost run over by an 18-wheeler trying to figure out how to handle the shake. I can't afford to buy another truck. So I need to fix this one so I can keep working. If anybody has a concrete solution to these problems, please let us know. I've read 20 different opinions from mechanics on these blogs, but nobody has said yet that they fixed someone's truck with these problems and have since heard from that customer and everything is still working fine. Opinions are helpful sometimes, but they're also confusing when they're conflicting.

Jun 24, 2009 | 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4WD

1 Answer

Metal peice hanging down in front of car


It seemks to be the mud flap that keeps mud and other things like water from going into the wheel well. Might as well take it of altogether until you can find a good one or new one.

Apr 15, 2009 | 1993 Buick LeSabre

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

20 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Cars & Trucks Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

76164 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22156 Answers

Randy Ohler

Level 3 Expert

14585 Answers

Are you a Car and Truck Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...