Question about Cars & Trucks
What do you mean? The taper provides a strong locking element to the joint, held in place by the lock nut. Do you mean the angle of the ball joint taper? If so what had you in mind?
Posted on Mar 30, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The dealer's answer (if you are interested).......
The ball joint is pressed into the upper control arm and has a tapered stud for attachment to the steering knuckle. The ball joint stud is attached and locked into the steering knuckle using a special nut. The ball joint is a sealed-for-life type and requires no maintenance. If the ball joint is defective it will require replacement of the entire upper control arm.
Posted on Jun 20, 2008
If they are the original ball joints you will have to remove the rivets on them. The new ones should come with replacement nut and bolts. You will have to remove the brakes, and move the steering knuckle out of the way (You don't have to remove the tie rod end). It isn't difficult, just time consuming. You can do it in the driveway on stands. Make sure you have a couple hours, and a case of beer.
Posted on Feb 26, 2009
SOURCE: upper and lower ball joints
Jack the truck clear of the ground and let the wheel assembly hang. After you remove the tire place your jack under the lower control arm so it's firm. Remove the cotter pin, if you have one and loosen the big nut almost off. Wedge a "pickle fork" between the control arm and the spindle and give it a belt with a hammer until the ball joint pops. Raise the jack so you can undo the nut easily and separate the control arm and spindle.
The upper ball joint is riveted or bolted in. Grind the rivets or use a cold chisel and remove the ball joint. Clean up the area with some sandpaper, dirt , loose rust, etc.and put the new joint in. Put the spindle back on using the jack if necessary and put the nut back on and tighten.
The lower ball joint is pressed in. Tie the spindle out of the way and brace the lower control arm with some blocks or the jack if you have to. A few whacks with a hammer should pop the joint out. Clean the hole out lightly, just to remove loose rust and dirt. Put the ball joint, minus the grease fitting ,,in the hole and use the jack with a block of wood, to put it in place.You may have to fiddle with the spindle to make sure it is lined up. I've never had any trouble using a 1ton trolley jack and the weight of the truck to put the lower ball joint back in. Replace the nut and grease fitting.
The new ball joints will probably come with cotter pins, use them. Make sure the new joints are tight or they will wear the holes in the spindle. Don't forget to grease the new joints. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
Raise vehicle up on jack stands so that the stands are under the lower controll arms and the suspension is "loaded" Remove the front tire(s) (if you break the torque on the nuts while the wheel is still on the ground it helps, but do not loosen them completely as you will be looking for new rims and wheel studs too). Place a drift or some other suitable object in one of the brake rotor vanes so that it will hit the brake caliper and stop the rotor from moving and remove the CV shaft nut (it's a big ****** make sure you have the right socket on hand before getting to this point). Next remove the brake caliper and rotor then undo the wheel bearing retaining bolts and remove the wheel bearing. This should give you enough room to move the axle shaft back and up so you can work on the ball joint. If you've had ball joints replaced before just unbolt the ones that are installed and using a pickle fork, or a block of wood and a hammer, drive the ball joint stud from the knuckle. (make sure to support the upper control arm so it doesn't drop down on you when you do this) If you are working on original ball joints then I reccomend placing a block of wood or something else that will protect the cv boots from drill bits ect and drill out the rivets holding the ball joint in place. then remove in the same manner indicated in the previous paragraph. installation is pretty much the reverse of removal and don't forget to torque your cv shaft nut I have a 1999 and the manual specs 103FTlbs... This is a critical torque as it helps preload your wheel bearing. Too high and you'll burn them up, too low and they'll be loose and wear out.
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
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