Question about AC Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: dead cylinders 2003 sebring
it sounds like you may have the wires on the wrong coil. It should be #1 on the #4 coil, and the #3 wire on the #2 coil. you probably have them backwards so 1 and 3 are firing on the exhaust stroke.
the firing order is 1-3-4-2.
they should be hooked like this.
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
to properly clean and test the egr valve you should remove it from the car. disconnect vacuum, elect connectors, and check the gasket surface both on the manifold and on the base of the valve. you will need to buy or cut a new gasket most likely. when you apply vacuum to the control inlet, you should see the valve lift away from the seat. I use brake cleaner and compressed air to spray clean and blow out the valve just to test it and then go from there depending on what you find ---- one of the vacuum switches that controls it or a faulty vacuum line is a likely possibility also ---- so you should check them also. a vacuum pistol comes on really helpful here.
Posted on Jun 20, 2009
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If the CKP has died
completely there will be very high resistance between the device's electrical
connections associated with the open circuit.
Furthermore spark delivery to the plugs will be absent. First check that
the electrical connection is clean and secure; dirt or corrosion can impair an
otherwise healthy CKP signal from getting through. If the CKP suffers from a drop in voltage
associated with heat increase this can only be detectable with a voltmeter or
oscilloscope with a graphical display; an analogue display voltmeter might just
be able to show needle fluctuations due to voltage variation output.
Look at the electrical connector with the CKP:
2 pin socket (magnetic - sine wave
output). One pin is 'ground' the other
is 'signal'. A voltmeter set to 2 volts
AC should measure a signal in the 0.2 to 2 volts range on the 'signal' pin.
pin socket (Hall effect, magneto - square wave form output). One pin is 'reference' (5volts), one pin is
'ground' and the third pin is 'signal'.
A DC voltage should be detectable in the 0.5 to 1.5 volt range from the
It is important that the voltage
measurement take place at start up when the engine is cold and again, 20
minutes later, when the engine has fully warmed up to operating temperature.
Often the voltage output from faulty sensors declines with temperature rise.
How to fix? Check the wiring for continuity and
that the electrical connection is clean and secure. Remove the CKP and clean off any dirt build up
on the tip.
If you strongly
suspect the crank sensor as being at fault it is a relatively inexpensive device
If the above does not solve the issue I would carry out the exact same diagnostic on the cam position sensor. In fact it is not a bad idea to at least test the cam sensor at the same time as testing the crank sensor as they work on very similar principles and are prone to the same faults. Time spent diagnosing the problem can reduce the amount you spend in dollars on spare parts.
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