Question about Toyota Cars & Trucks
Posted by Anonymous on
You would check output with a meter. You should have battery voltage with the engine off, and at least 14 volts with the engine running.
Posted on Mar 29, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Toyota Camry 2004 P0420
well that's if I'm not mistaken, catalyst system efficiency THRESHOLD!!! it is "bank" when your description code explanes bank 1 that is a O 2 sensor anything says BANK is a Oxygen sensor = O 2 sensor.what is it doing shutting off when eng warms up or sputtering or nothing really out of normal behavior? these switches will loose all communication with computer or get stuck in 1 of three ranges each range behave differently! in each range the deal with these are these switches are a part of maintenance usa @ hundred thousand km they should be change for emission efficiency and fuel consumption and vehicle performance usually after 1 is changed 9 times out of 10 shortly after the next bank will produce eng light and so on!! I usually change both while I'm at it you know pay me now or pay me again later but twice as much! well hope this helps you out good luck cheers happy new year.John, Toronto,Ontario
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
There is a VSV (vacuum switching valve) , usually mounted on the back side of engine block, under the intake manifold, as well as the map sensor, that can also cause that code if one or the other is faulty. It takes some pretty detailed troubleshooting to confirm this in some cases, so if that's not in your line of work, you may have to have it properly diagnosed, or take a 50/50 shot at which one first.
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
Please take the car for diagnosis and the revealed codes will definately lead u ahead.
See that your AC condenser is not dirt blocked too.
Posted on May 14, 2009
It could be the relay, which is a yellow box located under the carpeting in the trunk on the left side. It is a problem common to your model. Also, check the brake switch's (behind the brake pedal) functionality (12V present with key at ACC or ON and continuity between wires when button engaged).
i hope this helps
Posted on Oct 26, 2009
Testimonial: "Wow! I would have never found the problem without you guys. It was the relay located in the trunk. Thanks!"
I have a solution for you, as I see your same issue in my shop quite a bit...There are two possibilities:
You may have a broken wire. This is a very common issue.
Open up the trunk lid, and look at the hinge on the driver side. You will see a wiring harness, in a plastic tube, attached to the arm that holds th trunk lid to the car.... Remove the tubing, and follow the wires towards the back seat area. You are probably going to find a wire that has been broken, from the many actions of opening and closing the trunklid. Splice and resolder the wire, and you should be fine.
The other issue is the tallamp failure sensor may have burned out. This too is rather common. Open the trunk lid, and pull back the inner carpeting on the driver side of the trunk. Locate a small box (it will be white or blue), on a brace. The box is closer to the quater panel sheetmetal. Remove the box, and take it apart. If it looks or smells burnt, you need a new sensor.
Posted on Nov 30, 2009
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