Question about 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck

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Battery drainage iod remove fuse no drainage - 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck

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  • Dodge Master
  • 1,224 Answers

You must have done some work recently on vehicle
Lets start with simple back tracing
Ground wires
Starter look at first to see if ground off properly
Abs sensors didnt connect right
Radio install
These wires factory set if you spliced into them then undo splices
Wrong tail light bulb
Frozen open or shut relay
Relay panel match relay numbers to other relays there and just do a swap change there positions
On vehicle you have a power transformer for it only holds power
But battery goes to a side terminal its only there to keep memmory
Last but not least simple pedal brake switch these get stuck
Glove box lights trunk lights and door switches these get stuck
When i get out of my s10 my door switch always stayed stuck open it drained my battery replace where needed

Posted on Mar 29, 2015


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I can't find the IOD fuse in my caravan - when I

it may have a small cover over it. it should be right beside the ASD relay in the fuse box under the hood.

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

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SOURCE: I have a 2000 Grand

  • Later model Dodge Caravans are subject to parasitic drain. This is due to newer electronic parts that require a constant, albeit tiny, trickle of current in order to maintain their memory when the ignition switch is turned off. If a device is drawing too much power, it can run the battery down. A diagnostic test at a professional auto shop can usually isolate the problem component within an hour or two.
  • Brake Light Switch
  • The Dodge Caravan, like many other vehicles, utilizes a brake light switch that illuminates the brake lights when the brake pedal is applied and shuts the lights off when the pedal is released. This switch, which is located under the dash above the brake pedal, can wear out over time and arbitrarily cause the brake lights to turn on. If the operator is unaware of the problem, he can experience a dead battery and never know why. The switch typically costs less than $20; anyone who can pump their own gas should be able to replace it in less than 15 minutes. .
  • Check the C relay or could be a problem with the BCM at the bottom left side fuse location. (Driver Side, These have been issues in the past as well.
    When will Dodge engineers smarten up and put separate fuses on each thing that draws through the IOD fuse? As time has passed the size of the IOD fuse has increased to the point where for some vehicles it must handle 90 amps. Everything that needs power (even standby power) when the ignition is off goes through it. This includes every open and close door module, electric seats, sliding door openers, window open and close motors (so you can remotely open the windows to cool off the car before you get in), gps equipment, clock, remote key receiver, remote engine start module and heater fan on warm engine detect, security system and alert (which includes lights and horns), and much more. Right now the only way to fix such problems is to cut all wires coming off the IOD in inserting a shunt with a place for a fuse. After turning off the car remove the fuse bypass on the shunt and watch. Eventually, a fuse will blow. That tells you the culprit causing the battery drain. In some cases it has been shown to be a open door module that is shorting internally. At other times it can be wiring. Regardless, it all comes to lousy engineers at Dodge. The problem has existed in every Dodge and many Chryslers since the early 90's and will continue to be more of a problem as vehicle electronics increase.

    Posted on Feb 03, 2011

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    I don't know which fuse for the door, but not the IOD fuse.

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    I have a 2000 Grand Caravan that the battery suddenly was drained. After charging the battery, I placed my DVM between the neg cable and neg battery post and received a reading of 12.4V. I checked to make...

    Hello my name is Landon

    We had this problem before when we were traveling
    We went to get gas and the Invert er was on this may be why your battery drains so quickly I would recommend getting a new battery but be sure that your Invert er is off because it can only run when the vehicle is on because the invert er runs off the alternator so if the vehicle is off than the invert er drains the battery.



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    Gas chime keeps going off. Gas tank is half full.

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    I have a slow battery drain on a 2006 Jeep Liberty. Pulling either fuse #34 from the dash fuse box or #7 under the hood (labeled JB Power) will eliminate the drain. According to the owner's manual #34...

    Jb power is Junction Block power
    Here is a list of tests for this problom

    IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.
    A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Junction Block (JB). This will reduce battery discharging.
    Excessive IOD can be caused by:
    1. Electrical items left on.
    2. Inoperative or improperly adjusted switches.
    3. Inoperative or shorted electronic modules and components.
    4. An internally shorted generator.
    5. Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
    If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.
    1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes. See the Electronic Module Ignition-Off Draw Table for more information.
    (If Yes, Interval And Wake-Up Input)
    IOD IOD After Time Out Radio No 1 to 3 milliamperes N/A Audio Power Amplifier No up to 1 milliampere N/A Central Timer Module (CTM) No 4.75 milliamperes (max.) N/A Powertrain Control Module (PCM) No 0.95 milliampere N/A ElectroMechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) No 0.44 milliampere N/A Combination Flasher No 0.08 milliampere N/A 2. Determine that the underhood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb. 3. Disconnect the battery negative cable. 4. Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multi-meter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated. 5. After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) , one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Fuse Locations and Types - Specifications) for the appropriate wiring information for complete PDC and TIPM fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, diagnose and repair the Charging System as necessary. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low-amperage IOD.
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