Question about Mitsubishi Pajero

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What causes my 3 door pajero 2.5 tha fter 5 mins after start something there is knocking noice as if something is touching the timing belt cover

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Could possible be just that remove the timing belt cover and turn the engine over by hand as it may be the timing belt coming apart.

Posted on Mar 29, 2015

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I need the part number for the starter motor for my Pajero


You don't need the part number as it depends on the maker of the starter motor.

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    May 20, 2016 | 1994 Mitsubishi Pajero

    1 Answer

    What lead goes to what spark plug on nj pajero dohc as only 3 leads


    your engine should be 6G76 V6

    number one cylinder is closest to the timing belt

    With the plug out and finger over the plug hole while turning the motor clockwise ...number one cylinder will be the only cylinder coming to compression at Top dead Centre

    on the dissy The firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6,

    with rotor to number one when it is at Top Dead Center

    the heads wont be 123 on one bank and 456 on the other
    more like 1 3 5 on one bank and 246 on the other

    hope this helps




    Oct 19, 2014 | 1997 Mitsubishi Pajero

    2 Answers

    Kia sorento 2012 produce sound look like power steering problem and it gets louder when ever I acceleration gear, so I took belt out and start the engin with no belt I found that sound was in engin!!


    If its a knocking sound:

    A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
    1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
    2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

    3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
    4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
    5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
    6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

    Dec 15, 2013 | Kia Sorento Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    Have a 96 geo prizm that won't accelerate very well and is making a knocking sound any ideas?


    knocking is a big thing, its a cry for help.
    can be minor to horrific
    knocking parked? or only driving.
    in neutal or park?
    knocking hot block, or cold block or both? at what RPM>/
    only real oil pressure gauge works, not the idiot lamp
    when the lamp comes on at 3-5psi, the war was lost.
    my 96 makes 55psi cold just cranking, want a video of that?
    find the knocking first.

    if can ,be knocked , parked.?
    id check oil pressure. real.
    use a $5 stethoscope. find it.
    drop all belts. to see if an accessory device knocks. (5min test max cold to start, yes, water pump dead)
    PS/AC/ALT dead too.
    still knock>
    listen at valve cover. coming from there.
    is the timing belt is old over 60k thy all shard and some knock load hitting that cover, it a for sure thing, skipping the 60k mile service point,
    exhast header collerctor fange gasket , bad, allowing bang band bang as the 2 flanges pound themselves to death.
    the top of the engine, see induction pips. (AIR) those mounts for sure can bang away, bolts missing.

    knocking:
    1 overheated the engine so bad its pinging? knocks up hills?
    2: say exaclty when and not you get the knocks.

    Dec 03, 2012 | 1996 Geo Prizm

    1 Answer

    I have a 1999 chevy cavalier and it has a knocking noice coming from the engine i checked the timing it is good i have to crank it a little before it will start any answers


    Can't tell for sure, there are a lot of different kinds of engine noises. For your year of Cavalier they are common for a knock noise coming from the front timing cover area. It is caused from the timing CHAIN rattling on the tensioner. It is generally caused by lack of oil changes and the oil gets very thick. There is a very small passage that allows oil to enter the timing chain case, and if its thick or dirty it doesn't. Best to have it diagnosed to what area or possible cause. It will also cause the engine to labor and not start immediately.

    Feb 26, 2011 | 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier

    2 Answers

    How to change water pump on toyota sienna


    3.0L Engine
    1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
    2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    3. Drain the engine coolant.
    4. Remove or disconnect the following:
      Wiper and blade assembly Top cowl seal and panel Window washer hoses, from the ventilator louvers Left and right ventilator louvers Heater air duct Timing belt
    5. Mark the left and right camshaft pulleys with a touch of paint.
    6. Remove or disconnect the following:
      NOTE Be sure not to mix up the pulleys.
      Right and left camshaft pulleys bolts Pulleys from the engine
      No. 2 idler pulley by removing the bolt 3 clamps and engine wire from the rear timing belt cover 6 No. 3 timing belt cover-to-engine bolts Water pump nuts/bolts Water pump and gasket from the engine

      9c53b11.jpg
      Fig. Exploded view of the components to gain access to the water pump-3.0L engine


      cf2cc65.jpg
      Fig. Exploded view of the water pump and related components-3.0L engine

    To install:
    1. Check that the water pump turns smoothly. Also check the air hole for coolant leakage.
    2. Apply liquid sealer to the gasket, water pump and engine block.
    3. Install or connect the following:
      NOTE After tightening the bolt, be sure the idler pulley moves smoothly.
      NOTE Be sure to align the knock pin hole on the camshaft pulley with the knock pin on the camshaft.
      NOTE Be sure to align the knock pin hole on the camshaft pulley with the knock pin on the camshaft.
      Water pump, using a new gasket. Tighten the nuts/bolts to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm). Rear timing belt cover. Tighten the 6 bolts to 74 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Engine wire with the 3 clamps to the rear timing belt cover No. 2 idler pulley. Tighten the bolt to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
      Right-hand camshaft pulley, with the flange side outward.
      Tighten the camshaft bolt to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm), using the removal tools Left-hand camshaft pulley, with the flange side inward.
      Tighten the camshaft bolt to 94 ft. lbs. (125 Nm), using the removal tools Timing belt
    4. Fill the engine coolant.
    5. Install or connect the following:
      Heater air duct Left and right ventilator louvers Window washer hoses to the ventilator louvers Top cowl seal and panel Wiper and blade assembly Negative battery cable
    6. Start the engine.
    7. Top off the engine coolant and check for leaks.

    Hope this help.

    Mar 23, 2010 | 2004 Toyota Sienna

    1 Answer

    Heard a knick-knack sound and then the engine shut


    knock sensor is working at least right but unfortuanantly thats all that is working

    it is likely a knock isue check the motor oil it is not un usual for a nisan to knock when the oil is low but on rare ocation it will kick so hard the knock sensor will activate

    Mar 23, 2010 | 1994 Nissan Quest

    1 Answer

    1989 v6 pajero timing firing order


    For the 3.0L
    Firing Order:
    1-2-3-4-5-6
    Cylinders:
    5-------6
    3-------4
    1-------2
    (front of vehicle)
    Distributor:
    --------2---------
    1--------------3

    6------------- 4
    --------5---------
    (front of vehicle)
    rotation clockwise

    Feb 13, 2010 | 1996 Mitsubishi Montero Sport

    1 Answer

    Rattling from under hood starts when a/c is engaged or veh in idl


    When the a/c is turned on it puts more of a load on the engine, and causes it to pull harder, which in turn, can cause some vibrations that are otherwise not present. It is possible that the a/c compressor is going out, but not likely if it is only 4 years old. I advise you to take a broom handle or something similar, about 2 to 3 ft long and touch the end of it to the a/c compressor when the rattling is occurring, at the same time, place your thumb over the other end of the pole and stick it to your ear. This is a really good listening device to help locate rattles and knocks. Be sure to put your thumb between the pole and your ear so you don't hurt your ear, and also be EXTREMELY careful not to get the pole caught in any of the moving parts. eg.... pulleys and belts. I have an idea that it might be a heat shield or clamp somewhere that has either loose or rubbing against something.

    May 05, 2009 | 2005 Ford F-150

    2 Answers

    I need instructions on replacing the timing belt


    1. Remove the Alternator Belt.
    2. Remove the Water Pump Pulley
    3. Remove the Air Conditioner Belt and Power Steering Belt.
    4. Remove the Crankshaft Pulley.
    5. Remove the timing belt cover
    6. Remove the timing belt tensioner pulley.
    7. Remove the Timing Belt.
    8. (If Replacing) Remove Idler Pulley.
    Installation is reverse of removal. Keep a close eye on the timing marks on the cam sprockets to make sure you don't knock anything out of whack.

    I would strongly recommend replacing the water pump while you are replacing the timing belt. (The water pump usually comes in the timing belt kit.) Otherwise you are going to have to do this all over again when your water pump goes out. Good Luck.

    Nov 10, 2008 | 2004 Hyundai Tiburon

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