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Brake fail, OK at speed, does not work at stopping, replaced master cylinder, servo, rear brakes, no warning lights, seems to sort itself for a little while after sitting over night

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Is your pedal spongey? Have you bled the brakes?

Posted on Mar 28, 2015

Testimonial: "No the pedal is normal at speed and at slow speed goes hard but does not stop the car, brakes have been bled when they changes the master cylinder and again when the changed the servo, the problem only seems to start after about 5-10 miles"

  • Jenna Corbitt
    Jenna Corbitt Mar 28, 2015

    It sounds like your power brake booster has gone out

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1 Answer

I have a hard brake petal on my 05 Dodge Durango


A hard brake pedal is usually caused by an air leak from engine to brake servo (brake booster) or a defective servo/booster itself.

Have a look in your engine bay. The brake servo is usually at the rear, on the engine wall. It's circular, has the brake master cylinder attached. There should be a black hose/tube .. check that tube for security and splitting. You may have to change the servo/booster.

Here's some generic images of what it looks like:
brake servo Google Search

May 09, 2016 | Dodge Cars & Trucks

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Jeep Cherokee non abs brakes lockup!


if you have drum brake in the back most likely the shoes have cracks,replace the brake shoes,adjust parking brake you should be ok,good luck.

Jan 26, 2015 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

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Have a 99 Toyota camry n brake light is on after changing right front brake caliper


Master cylinder fluid piston has entered into a brake safe mode.
when the high pressure brake system is opened in any way, the brake master cylinder piston reaches to the far end of the master cylinder which trips the brake system warning light.

This brake light condition is due to sudden loss of brake fluid pressure on the right front brake caliper assembly during the replacement.

Left rear brake caliper bleed valve will ned to be "opened" until master cylinder piston travels into the opposite direction which "resets" the brake system warning light.

Dot 4 brake fluid recommened for most, but not all vehicles.
Reference vehicle to owners manual for replacement fluid is replaced under master cylinder brake system cap.

Aug 18, 2013 | 1993 Buick Park Avenue

1 Answer

I have a 1995 dodge ram 2500 cummins the abs and brake lights are on and the cruise control is not working? I have replaced the master cylinder and the speed sensor in the rear axle


The warning lights mean there should be a trouble code stored in the body computer. I would start there.
When the ABS system is inop it may prevent the cruise from working too. Sometimes a hydraulic brake system failure will turn the ABS light on too. After repairs you would need to scan the system to turn the light off with most vehicles.
Are the brake lights in the rear of the truck staying on ?

Jul 03, 2012 | 1995 Dodge Ram 2500

2 Answers

E240 of 2005 has a brake system problem. It fails to break and a warning comes up which reads something like this: stop. reduced breaking power. depress brake pedal fully.


SOUNDS LIKE THE POWER UNIT OR MASTER CYLINDER FOR BRAKES HAS GONE BAD. NO MENTION OF PULLING OR GRINDING BUT YOU COULD NEED BRAKE FLUID. I'D CHECK THAT FIRST AND CHECK FOR LEAKS. HOPE THAT HELPS..

Jul 22, 2011 | 2003 Mercedes-Benz E-Class

1 Answer

Mitsubishi delica 4x4 brake problems: hi! i have replaced all rubber parts in my brake system including master cylinder piston. hand brake self adjusting mechanism in rear brakes are functioning perfectly....


If the pedal is spongy, then this almost always means there's still air in the system. The master cylinder may be defective, or possibly you have an expanding brake hose (unlikely given your description).

You say you have replaced the master cylinder rubbers, which suggests that there was a problem. Replacing the rubbers won't help if the cylinder itself is corroded.

Rebleed the brakes, starting with the rears. Ensure that the rear brake shoes are in fact adjusted out so that are LIGHTLY rubbing the drums when you turn the wheel. If the this adjustment is not done the brake pedal will give the symptoms you describe.

Check the front brake hoses for any damage. Have someone press the pedal and check that no hose is ballooning or leaking. Replace the hose(s) if required.

Check that the L and R calipers are not swapped. The bleed screw should be above the brake hose. Check that the caliper slides are lubricated.

Also check your wheel bearings. If these are worn the disk wobble will move the pads way off the rotor.

Finally, the master cylinder on your Delicia is most likely a 15/16" unit: this is cast into the side of the cylinder. Early 1990's Mitsu master cylinders are all very similar. They came in 13/16", 7/8", 15/16, 1" and 1 1/16" depending on the vehicle. Hence its possible to replace a 7/8" unit with a 1" unit and have a harder pedal.

If rebleeding the brakes does not cure the problem, and you have the 15/16" master (or bigger), replace the master cylinder with a rebuilt one.

SD

Jun 27, 2011 | 1990 Mitsubishi Minivan

1 Answer

My brake lights stay on after I turn off the car


Hello,

If the light is on all the time, it could mean you simply forgot to release the
parking (emergency) brake. The brake warning light remains on when the brake is set
as a reminder. If the brake warning light remains on when the parking brake is
released, then something is amiss.

In some cases, the brake warning light may remain on if the switch on the parking
brake pedal or lever is misadjusted. Nothing is wrong with the brakes and a simple
adjustment should fix the problem.

If the brake warning light comes on when you apply the brakes,
or is on continuously, it means that hydraulic pressure has been lost in one side
of the brake system or that the fluid level in the master cylinder is dangerously
low (due to a leak somewhere in the brake system).
In either case, the fluid level in the master cylinder should be checked.
Adding brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir may temporarily solve the
problem. But if there's a leak, the new fluid will soon be lost and the warning
light will come back on.

Brake fluid leaks are serious because they may cause the brakes to fail!
So avoid driving the vehicle until the system can be inspected to determine what's
wrong. Leaks can occur in brake hoses, brake lines, disc brake calipers,
drum brake wheel cylinders or the master cylinder itself.
Wet spots at hose or line connections would indicate a leak that needs to be fixed.

Leaking brake fluid can also contaminate the brake linings,
causing them to slip or grab. The uneven braking action that results may cause the
vehicle to veer to one side when the brakes are applied. Brake shoes or pads that
have been contaminated with brake fluid cannot be dried out and must be replaced.

Hope this helps.

Dec 17, 2010 | 2001 Volvo S80

5 Answers

Brake pedal is hard but brakes not very effective. booster holds vacuum. replaced booster check valve, no change. dash brake light stays on most of time but sometimes goes out for a while then comes back...


Check the brake fluid first.is it low or no brake fluid at all.is the brake fluid got dried up or leaked out. Sounds like the power brake booster is bad, that is what the master cylinder is bolted too. There is a rubber hose that has a plastic valve in it were it snaps into the booster, Pull that rubber hose out of the booster and off of the engine, Now the end that you took off the engine. You should be able to **** through the line, but not be able to blow through it. If you can then replace the valve, It is a one way valve.
If that is all right then hook hose back up to the engine and start engine, You should hear a major vacuum leak at the valve end, put you finger over the valve and it should stop making noise and engine should smooth out. If it don't the rubber hose must be leaking or the tube on the engine were the hose hooks to is stoped up.
Also check the master cylinder if power booster is replaced. If the brake light is coming and going check the brake light switch. check fig for the internal assembly parts:-- bdea807.gif

To check engine vacuum, connect a vacuum gauge to the supply hose that runs from the intake manifold to the booster. A low reading (below 16 inches) may indicate a hose leak or obstruction, a blockage in the exhaust system (plugged catalytic converter, crushed pipe, bad muffler, etc.), or a problem in the engine itself (manifold vacuum leak, bad valve, head gasket, etc.).
The condition of the diaphragm inside the booster is also important. If cracked, ruptured or leaking, it won't hold vacuum and can't provide much power assist. Leaks in the master cylinder can allow brake fluid to be siphoned into the booster, accelerating the demise of the diaphragm. So if there's brake fluid inside the vacuum hose, it's a good indication the master cylinder is leaking and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Wetness around the back of the master cylinder would be another clue to this kind of problem.
To check the vacuum booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine off until you've bled off all the vacuum from the unit. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. You should feel the pedal depress slightly as engine vacuum enters the booster and pulls on the diaphragm. No change? Then check the vacuum hose connection and engine vacuum. If okay, the problem is in the booster and the booster needs to be replaced.
Vacuum boosters also have an external one-way check valve at the hose inlet that closes when the engine is either shut off or stalls. This traps vacuum inside the booster so it can still provide one or two power assisted stops until the engine is restarted. The valve also helps maintain vacuum when intake vacuum is low (when the engine is under load or is running at wide open throttle). You can check the valve by removing it and trying to blow through it from both sides. It should pass air from the rear but not from the front.
Replacing a vacuum booster is a fairly straight forward job. All you have to do is disconnect it from the brake pedal on the inside and unbolt the master cylinder. The pushrod that runs from the booster into the back of the master cylinder must have the specified amount of play.
You will typically find the power brake booster mounted on the firewall attached to the master cylinder. The master cylinder is connected to the brake pedal.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Jul 15, 2010 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

1 Answer

Jaguar XJ40 1994. The brake warning light is activated when the brake pedal is depressed. I have consulted the manual which states that the brake fluid requires topping up or there is an electrical fault...


the master cylinder could be defective or the proportioning valve is stuck. You can try slamming the brake pedal down at a stop. this may reset the valve, if it goes off thats your problem. if it continues to stay on pull the E Brake or parking brake see if the pedal rises up f the pedal comes up it may mean your rear shoes are worn and the wheel cylinder or caliper seal is leaking. to test if all brakes are working go about 10 mph Be sure you e brake works then hit the brakes once you stop get out and look if there is rubber on the ground on all four wheels. do this in a area where it's safe and you can come to a atop before hitting someone Else's property or going over a cliff. If the front brakes work then your rear are not working if there is no marks on front that means there is a problem with the front brake system. remember the light is a warning jamming down the brakes may cause the master cylinder to fail so be sure your mechanicl emergency brake works good before doing test. otherwise you may experince the pucker factor, one guy at a shop I worked for pushed his tool box ouy yhr tindoor he didn't check the e-brake before doing the test in front of the shop. Opps.

Mar 23, 2010 | 1994 Jaguar XJ6

4 Answers

1997 Ford F-350 7.3 L Diesel..........brake failure


With no leaks and a little braking action returning by pumping the pedal I would suggest looking into a master cylinder. Low brake fluid level in the master cylinder will cause the brake warning light to illuminate (possibly, also the ABS light).

If the truck has the 7.3L diesel, it will have a vacuum pump which supplies vacuum for all vacuum accessories. I believe if the vacuum level drops below 10 in. of Hg, the brake light will illuminate. If the vacuum pump fails you'll know it as the brake pedal will require quite a bit of effort to effect any braking effort.

Nov 19, 2008 | 1997 Ford F350 Crew Cab

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